RMNP Conditions Report - October 22, 2010

Notchtop and its N. Face with light snow

There is a privacy about it which no other season gives you.... In spring, summer and fall people sort of have an open season on each other; only in the winter, in the country, can you have longer, quiet stretches when you can savor belonging to yourself. -- Ruth Stout

The Ptarmigan Fingers and area

This quote from Ruth builds on the theme from last week, describing how winter is for many the most special time of year.  In my small circle there are so many people who complain about the cold or the snow.  Indeed, for rock climbers there are few things worse than a beautiful route under snow.  I can understand that, being a rock climber myself; but when the mountains offer so much more, it's a pity to focus on just one aspect.  Here in Colorado we are blessed with it all: warm Front Range rock, splitter alpine rock, good ice and mixed climbing, good-to-great skiing, and plenty of like-minded people with which to enjoy it all.  In reality, there is no such thing as an "off season," at least not for true mountain people.  Whether ascending or descending, we "send" all year!  And as Ruth points out above, there is something innately unique about the winter mountains, a place where you come to terms with yourself.  In the spring it's like, "Ok, self, I'll see ya in the Fall!"  And then winter rolls around and it's a chance to ski or hike deep into the backcountry, see no one, and know myself again.  I recharge in winter.

Climbing on Notchtop's "Spiral Route"

So, as you can imagine, I'm a nervous wretch at the moment, just itching to get out in the mountains regardless of the discipline.  On a mountaineering course this week, conditions weren't ideal for the objectives we wanted to do but we went for it anyway and had a great time.  We climbed the "Spiral Route" on Notchtop in approach shoes and zero snow/ice gear aside from long-johns and gloves.  Despite being windy and cold, making communication difficult, the lower part of the route was in good shape.  Climbing into the notch itself, however, proved much more challenging as we were forced to tip-toe around deep snow drifts in an effort to keep our shoes dry.  The standard 5.4 route was hopelessly under snow and ice so we were forced up the 5.7 variation which was mostly dry.  The final pitch into the notch was all snow which made the 4th class scrambling feel much more, uhm, "exciting" than usual. 

Close-up of the N. Face, not in yet but hopefully soon

An approaching front and threat of associated t-storms convinced us to forgo the summit and begin the raps from the 3-piton anchor.  I banged a couple of the pins deeper and we began rappelling into the building snowstorm.  We blasted down the steep raps and made it back to the packs and relative safety in near-record time!

Rappelling Notchtop's S. Face

I was able to get a good look into the Ptarmigan Fingers area throughout the day.  Most of the Fingers are showing exposed ice near the top but most was filled in with 6-8" of new stuff.  The north and west faces of Flattop are already looking full-winter but mostly because they are so wind-blasted anyway that snow doesn't really collect there.  As the tragic fatality last weekend in the Park reminds us, the mountains this time of year are dangerous, especially the steep "glaciers" like Tyndall, the Fingers, and Taylor.  Fresh snow on top makes it a little harder to know what you're climbing underneath and, by now, that underlying ice can be really hard.  Ice continues to build and early-season alpine routes like the N. Face of Notchtop (not much ice earlier this week) and All Mixed Up should be climbable soonish.  I'm pathetically impatient this time of year, I'm sure I'll be up there dulling my spikes soon enough.

Conditions on Flattop's N. Face, similar to other north faces in the Park

This week has been mostly amazing weather in the Estes valley.  This has melted off some of Monday's new snow on the 12,000' peaks in the Park.  But Meeker and Longs remain untouched by the warmer weather, looking more like Masherbrum at the head of the Hushe valley than anything else.  Higher elevations at all aspects and lower elevations on N and NE aspects will feel very cold and wintery this weekend.  Looking around yesterday, all the south-facing routes still looked to be in similar shape to when we climbed Notchtop: mostly dry, the occasional wet/snowy ledge, and warm.  As I write this, though, it's raining here in town which likely means snow in the mountains.  If I were going up there this weekend, I'd be taking boots and crampons for sure and maybe an ice axe depending on the objective.  The weather for the next 4-5 days seems like it's going to be a bit fickle around here though the Front Range could be nice.  Hopefully I'll be able to get out in the mountains next week, once this storm wraps up, and be able to give an update. 

Nearing halfway on the "Spiral Route"

If you're heading up and aren't sure of conditions, drop me a line at acouncell@totalclimbing.com.  If you've been out and have some observations you'd like to share, feel free to fire an e-mail.  I'm always psyched to hear from readers!  As always, thanks for reading and stay safe out there this weekend!

Andrew Councell is a CMS Guide and year-round Estes Park resident

 All smiles in the notch...soon to be erased by an incoming storm! :)

RMNP Conditions Report - October 15, 2010

Pagoda covered in new snow

I prefer winter and fall, when you can feel the bone structure of the landscape - the loneliness of it, the dead feeling of winter. Something waits beneath it, the whole story doesn't show. 

 --Andrew Wyeth

Longs and Pagoda seen from Mills Lake

Here in Estes Park, residents often complain about the number of tourists that descend on our little valley town like a ravenous horde of so many locusts on a ripe corn field. They come to see the mountains glistening with distant snow, the water shimmering in the warm summer rays, the alpine wildflowers, etc. Those are all good things. But they miss out on the real deal: winter. I'm not sure you can really know a place, really enjoy a place if you haven't spent a winter there. In winter you feel more and work harder to experience the landscape; in essence, you have to give more of yourself. And, I think, you get more in return or, at least, the rewards taste a little sweeter. Maybe that is the "something" Wyeth talks about, that the return on your outdoor investment isn't as obvious as in the summer. It doesn't immediately show itself like the summer flowers do. Personally, I think that's what makes the winter better.

N. Ridge of Spearhead

And it sure feels like winter up in the Park right now, especially when you're up on a north face and the wind is blowing 30mph. With the successive storms from last week and early this week, the Park appears to have picked up about 6" of snow. On solar aspects much of that has melted while the winds have piled up snow into deep drifts on lee aspects and shaded aspects hide their snow from the sun's sublimating rays. Over last weekend (when most sane people were indoors), CMS Guide Steve Johnson was up in the Chasm Lake cirque and reported 50-60mph winds. Cornices and deeper drifts of this when the sun came back out. In the latter part of this week we've enjoyed successively warmer days though Wednesday morning was quite cold (one website forecasted 9-degrees F on Longs' summit). Today was nothing short of brilliant here in town, with no clouds, light winds, warm rock...a great day for rock climbing!

The broad N. Face of Alice

I spent Wednesday night high in Glacier Gorge and was keen to see how any of the alpine routes were shaping up, if at all. On the hike in, there wasn't much but a few smears where "Reflections" will be, a couple of icicles on "All Mixed Up" and not much to speak of near "W. Gully" and the Black Lake slabs.

Looking at Longs' W. Face from McHenry's E. Ridge

Ice forming left of W. Gully

On the hike out, however, there was a little more ice and it looks like these areas will continue to build now with moisture to feed them. If you're itching for the discomforts of alpine snow-scratching and dulling your new picks and crampons, there's lots of real-deal alpine climbing to be done in the Park right now. McHenry's looked pretty sick as did the Spearhead. Burly! Hopefully with the continuation of warm days and cold nights we'll be enjoying a fat November. Maybe Steve and I will be able to get out this week in the Chasm Cirque area and give you an update on what we find.

Sunset and moonrise over Spearhead

It looks like more snow is on the way for Monday so if you're able to get out in the mountains this weekend, this may be the last shot at Fall before the winter fully sets in.

W. Gully, not in yet

If you've been out in the Park and have observations you'd like to share, please feel free to e-mail me at acouncell@totalclimbing.com. Or if you just have questions, shoot me an e-mail. My apologies if this report is a little too short, just got back from a relatively late night (for me) at the Rock Inn and I'm ready for bed. Thanks for reading and, as always, play safe out there this weekend!

Andrew Councell is a CMS Guide and year-round Estes Park resident

Looking at All Mixed Up from Mills Lake, only the final pitch looks "in"

Mixed line on Chiefshead

Lumpy Ridge Climbers Reunion Gathers Climbing Greats and Gives Back

Estes Park has long been a gathering place for top climbers from around the world. Many world renowned climbers settle here, while others can’t resist returning to climb. A unique generational mix of climbers are drawn to Estes Park, including Scott Kimball, who wrote the 1986 Lumpy Ridge and Estes Park Rock Climbs guidebook, stunt rigger Douglas Snively, AMGA ski-mountaineering guide Mark Kelly, and Paige Claassen, one of the top sport climbers in the United States.

The 10^th annual Lumpy Trails day event brought those top climbers, and more, back to Lumpy Ridge. They celebrated over 50 years of climbing on Lumpy with a social gathering at Ed’s, free climbing clinics provided by Colorado Mountain School/Boulder Rock Club, a slide show by Lumpy Ridge pioneer Scott Kimball, and trail building camaraderie on the Sundance climber access trail.

The Saturday slide show was hosted by Greg Sievers and highlighted local climbing legends, including Harry Kent, Billy Westbay, Michael Covington, and others.

Everest ascensionist, and owner of Neptune Mountaineering in Boulder, Gary Neptune observed a CMS offwidth crack clinic taught by Clint Locks on Crack of Fear, Twin Owls. Climbers from the front range, Estes Park, California, Great Britain, and Israel took advantage of crack clinics offered by the CMS guides.

Climbers are known for giving back and following the Access Fund’s “Leave No Trace” ethics. On Oct. 3, 46 volunteers plus National Park Service trail employees constructed 60 rock stairs and installed 90 wooden water bars to prevent erosion on the 500 vertical feet of trail. AMGA heli-ski guide Mark Kelly once again helped on the trail crew and says there were “three times the number of people I’ve seen in the past. Basically all the projects the park service had lined up for us were finished.”

The event gathers support from climbing gear manufacturers, who set up a tent festival in the Lumpy Ridge/Gem Lake parking lot. In 2010 the North Face, Trango, Camp Equipment, LaSportiva, Colorado Mountain School and Neptune Mountaineering took part. Local businesses also support the event, including: Estes Park Mountain Shop, Kind Coffee, Ed's Cantina, Poppy's, the Egg & I, Starbucks, Estes Park Brewery, the Donut Haus, and Catering for All Occasions.

Local climber Greg Sievers and Chris Pruchnic, Front Range Section chair of the American Alpine Club organized the 2010 event. Chris is proud of taking part in the “biggest year yet” of the Lumpy Ridge Climbers Reunion and Trails Day. Look for hard core climbers to gather again to celebrate climbing heritage in fall 2011.

Author Michelle Hurni is a local climber whose book “Core Climbing: Pilates For Climbers” is available at michellehurni.com.

Unseasonably Warm and Dry in Rocky Mountain National Park

Fall alpine climbing has been some of the best in memory. I’d call it fall climbing but other than a few minor exceptions, it was summer—without thunderstorms. It has been dry and warm throughout, particularly since the second half of September. I was lucky enough to have great clients on great climbs.

 With John Pratt, one of the few clients I’ve had who has climbed longer than I have, we climbed Sharkstooth’s Northeast Ridge (5.6), which was the last time I’ve seen rain this fall (but we reached the summit) and Notchtop’s Spiral Route (5.4-5.7), which has always been one of my favorites.

I did get blown down from the Petit Grepon (5.8) with Jim Findlater a week later, but since then I’ve had perfect weather on Longs on two consecutive trips—one on the under-climbed Keyhole Ridge (5.6) with old friend Kevin O’Hara, Sean, and Mark. For Mark, it was his first multi-pitch climb, a fact we kind of discovered in process, a mis-communication but one he was a good enough athlete to pull off.

The next weekend we had the Scwartz family, father, brother, cousins, buddies, kids, and the family priest on the Keyhole, the first alpine climb for a few of them, but all summitted—again, in absolutely perfect weather. Sadly, on the way down, just before we reached the Keyhole, we learned a solo climber had slipped and fallen to his death. What bothers me about the Keyhole is how casually people take it and how brutal the route can be when someone’s careless.

It’s October now and still strangely summer-like at high elevation. I’m hoping to get in a few more alpine rock climbs before the ice tools come out.

Join us before the fall alpine rock season ends. It's going quick!

John Bicknell
CMS Owner and Senior Guide
AMGA Certified Rock and Alpine Guide
jbicknell@totalclimbing.com
800.836.4008
www.totalclimbing.com

RMNP Conditions Report - October 4th, 2010

"The foliage has been losing its freshness through the month of August, and here and there a yellow leaf shows itself like the first gray hair amidst the locks of a beauty who has seen one season too many." -- Oliver Wendell Holmes

"Delicious autumn! My very soul is wedded to it, and if I were a bird I would fly about the earth seeking successive autumns." -- George Eliot

Take a drive into the mountains these days and you'll see these "first gray hairs" of winter blazing up avalanche paths and along streambanks. In many places, certainly the higher elevations, many of the aspens' leaves have already fallen, carpeting trails in the Park with yellow petals. Once again the mountains are alive with stark juxtapositions of color; orange, yellow, red, green, white, and brown all in one perfect scene. You can breathe deep the cool, crisp, dry air, bask in the ebbing warmth of the sun's weakening rays and feel the raw and dying beauty of Fall. This is my favorite time of year.

After spending weeks in the North Cascades of Washington, weeks in humid cold and rain, I'm very grateful to be living in Colorado. We have one of the best climates in the country! Unbelievably, the summer maintains a strong grip and we're all enjoying warm, dry weather despite the late date. I don't think you'll hear many complaints out there. The weather has been amazing even up at 14,000' these past couple of weeks but it looks like change is forecasted for the coming week. We could potentially see some snow in the alpine by the weekend and the early part of next week seems busy too. Ice climbers, keep your fingers crossed!

In my absence last month the alpine did receive a bit of snow; on the flanks of Mt. Ida there were drifts over 6" deep last week, long after the storm. We found similar drifts on the N. Face of Longs Peak yesterday. But from Thursday on Mt. Meeker to being on Longs yesterday, one could easily see there was less snow. Various ledges on north faces throughout the alpine hold the only remaining snow. Overnight temperatures are certainly cold enough to be forming ice in the higher elevations. Reports of ephemeral smears of ice are popping up around our northern Colorado mountains. All we need is some snow to feed these smears and make them climbable. I can remember in years past when we were climbing ice in late September and here it's October and we're still climbing warm, dry rock. The way I see it, there's no rush; there's plenty of winter coming and let's enjoy the prolonged summer as long as we can!

A few parties were climbing on the Diamond this weekend. Brrrr! Daytime temps in the shade barely got out of the low-40s but climbers on the Chasm View Wall enjoyed climbing in the sun pretty much all day. I talked with one party who spent the night on Almost Table Ledge the night before last. They were in good spirits but definitely looked a bit haggard. The Diamond is in the shade by 10:30am (if not before) and is really cold! Other north faces like Chiefshead and Hallet would be equally as cold whereas south-facing Petit and Notchtop routes would still be reasonable for those of us who aren't quite as willing to suffer. Alpine bouldering is about as good as it gets all year right now though incoming weather may change that this week. In the Front Range, rock-climbing temperatures couldn't be more perfect.

There's still a bit of residual snow in Dreamweaver and with the new snow and cold temps it's reasonable to assume that at least some of the rubble would be frozen in place. Could it be climbable? Sure, but it's hard to say how enjoyable that would be. So far there's only a few sporadic smears of ice in the Darkstar area. The most climbable ice I've seen so far lies in the Loft but it's only 2-3" thick from what I could see. Be desperate enough and you might make it happen but wait for a cloudy day. The N. Face of Longs has small pockets of snow down lower but it's mostly avoidable. On the Cables Route itself there is are a few sections of water ice. Depending on your comfort and skill, it's still climbable without crampons as the rock around is bone dry as of yesterday. We climbed Meeker then Longs and then rappeled the N. Face so we weren't climbing the Cables Route but it seems doable. As of yesterday, the Park is rating the Keyhole Route "non-technical." I doubt that'll last very long. We saw no verglass on our Tour de Longs yesterday.

I hope to begin near-weekly updates of this report from now on in an attempt to keep up with the quickly changing conditions that come with this time of year. Guiding in the Park gives us accurate and first-hand knowledge of these ever-changing conditions. With so many guides in the field on a daily basis, I'm hoping to post the most accurate Park conditions available online. If you'd like to submit observations or if you have questions please feel free to e-mail me at acouncell@totalclimbing.com. Thanks for reading and stay safe out there!

Andrew Councell is a CMS Guide and year-round Estes Park resident

Summit for Someone

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www.summitforsomeone.org