RMNP Conditions Report - July 28, 2011

 Climbing high in Longs' Notch Couloir in July

"It doesn't interest me what you do for a living.  I want to know what you ache for, and if you dare to dream of meeting your heart's longing.  It doesn't interest me how old you are.  I want to know if you will risk looking like a fool for love, for your dream, for the adventure of being alive."

-- Oriah Mountain Dreamer

Coming down the trail from another beautiful day in the RMNP mountains yesterday, my guest-for-the-day and I were talking about climbing and how the overall focus has shifted over the years.  It used to be that climbing was about other things like nationalism or first ascents or simply for the sake of exploration.  It didn't seem to matter (as much) what the outcome, it was done in the name of adventure.  These days, on the other hand, so much focus seems to be around the numbers; it's V-this or 5.that or reaching some arbitrary altitude that matters to no one in the world except climbers.  It's easy to obsess about numbers, like the fifty-something 14ers in Colorado for example.  Rather than climbing a mountain because it's inspiring or not climbing a mountain because it's ugly or boring doesn't matter when all one cares about are the numbers.  You might forgo a trip up an amazing-looking 13er because it isn't "tall enough" and instead choose to busy yourself with some slag-heap that barely tips out at 14,000'.  For many, it's just so that they can say, "I climbed all the 14ers," or "I climbed all the 8000m peaks," or some other completely arbitrary, number-based claim.

 Columbine in full bloom in the RMNP alpine

We as climbers love numbers.  Hey, I'm guilty too.  I'm always trying to climb the next number-grade.  I find myself eschewing some beautiful-looking line because it's not hard enough, for example, and that's silly.  Seems that we should be climbing after the bigger picture, in the name of exploration or just plain fun.  That's what's awesome about climbing in the Park.  There are so many unclimbed walls and routes, so much that remains undone, so much potential for adventure.  So, as much to myself as any other climber, I say let's leave the numbers behind and aspire only to explore, to have an adventure and to have fun!

Notchtop on another clear, sunny day

No adventure would be complete without a bit of a weather-epic.  As the summer progresses, we've settled into our typical pattern of blue mornings, clouding noons, and the afternoon t-storms only to reset overnight.  The beauty of climbing in the Colorado high-country is the relative predictability of the weather.  I know the saying, "If you don't like the weather, just wait 5 minutes," and that can be true.  But if you're savvy enough and keep an eye on the sky, you can usually avoid the worst of weather.  Checking the forecast doesn't hurt either.  The super-vicious storms we were experiencing earlier in the month seem to have given way to their gentler kin.  It sprinkles and rumbles but, lately at least, we've had it pretty good.  

Longs' N. Face on July 28, 2011

The snow coverage this year continues to amaze us guides at the School, with snow climbs staying around much longer than usual.  CMS guides Rainbow Weinstock and Russell Hunter were just out in the Dragontail Couloir on Flattop with Outside Magazine Television a couple days ago.  Dragontail in late-July?  Wow.  But the climbing was reportedly top-notch: "With overcast skies maintaining quality firm snow for the whole route, we were wearing crampons until close to the top when it was all rock."  Despite the good quality of the snow-climbing, it sounds like even the Dragontail area is on its last legs.  "There are several rock steps in the upper, left-hand split that are interesting and reasonable.  One of the cruxes...is dealing with large, funky moats before these steps, which would likely be a big obstacle in a couple of weeks.  The other crux is the high volume of loose rock...in the final dry gully...handful of 4th-class steps in rubble."  So maybe another week or two there.  But that's south-facing, bearing the full force of the sun every day.  

Climbing high on Zowie's S. Face route

Other aspects like the Ptarmigan Fingers and Lambslide are also still in great shape.  We haven't had many freezing nights in the high country but there are still occasional freezes to keep things firm.  Some guides are reporting good foot-penetration with just approach shoes on; still, others report icy steps, firm snow and good cramponing.  One report reads: "Ptamigan Glacier and the Fingers are still in great condition for snow routes - no evidence of icing in any of them yet and all the cornices seem to be gone or melted back enough to not be an issue. The left finger (Brad's Gully) still has snow all the way down onto the upper tarn."  There was a rescue on Lambslide recently where a climber slipped on firm/icy snow; fortunately, he was able to arrest his fall but injured himself in the process. 

Ptarmigan Fingers still with plenty of coverage

CMS Guides Eric Whewell and Mike Soucy have each spent a couple days on Longs Peak this past week and sent in a good report.  Mike sent in this report for the North Face (Cables Route): "The crux is running water but the rest of the route is in good shape with mostly-avoidable snow. What snow remains has huge bucket steps in it."  They didn't use crampons on their climb but did have axes.  For his day going up Lambslide/Broadway-to-Notch Couloir: "Worth noting is the large snowfield traverse on the trail underneath [Mt. Lady Washington], still there and was frozen yesterday [morning].  The steps through it are not great and the fall would hurt.  Keep that in mind and gear up appropriately [beforehand].  Lambslide is in perfect condition now, styrofoam at 5:30.  Broadway is dry and cruiser.  The Notch was also in great shape, mostly snow [with] a couple of spots of alpine ice.  [The climbing was] all rock at the dogleg with a moderate passage...The south ridge is dry rock.  Keiner's is snow free."  He went on to say that he saw a number of parties on the Diamond climbing the Casual Route, Pervertical, D7, and Yellow Wall.  Apparently he talked to someone on the Casual Route and there are still a few wet spots but reportedly mostly dry.  Eric was talking with climbing ranger and friend/fellow guide Josh Gross and he said that Kieners was still wet in spots and that the Casual was totally dry.  Josh Wharton just freed the Dunn-Westbay at 5.13b; that's a proud send.  It's Diamond season!

Saber, the Gash & Sharkstooth on a rare, cloudy morning

CMS Senior Guide Bob Chase also sent in a couple of good reports from some days elsewhere in the Park.  He was on the "Love Route" on Hallet a couple days ago and had this to say: "There's still some snow to deal with to reach the base of "Love," "Better Than Love," and the ["Culp-Bossier"].  I pitched both short sections of snow, but it was all [doable] in approach shoes (for me and my clients).  The moat at the base of the route was perfect to hang out in and put on climbing shoes before starting the climb.  The route was totally dry except for a couple of minor drips here and there on the 5.7 pitch - they were easy to avoid.  The crux was bone dry.  Both rap anchors (bolts/chains at the top and the intermittent anchor) are in great shape.  The descent is dry except for a 20 foot section of snow at the very bottom (and that won't last long)."

Lots of unclimbed rock on the Fire Tower and other formations on Otis' S. Face

Bob sent in another report from Notchtop, I think 4 days ago?  He says: "The approach is dry up to Lake Helene (except for snow at the [Banana Bowls], below the east flank of Flattop and a few places where melt-water runs down the middle of the trail). There's low angle snow above Helene for 100+ vertical feet before you pick up the normal climber's trail through the krummholtz. Kicking steps with my approach shoes was very reasonable, but extra care might be needed for [climbers] who are inexperienced on snow if we had a freezing night. The rest of the approach is dry, as is the route and the entire descent gully. 

"I totally replaced the junk show at the top rap anchor - it's now two separate pieces of climbing rope and two rapid links. The 3-pin anchor between the top anchor and the first bolt anchor...still seems really good and I did some minor work on the rigging - it's now various slingage/cordage and two rapid links. Each of the bolt anchors are a combination of one totally tight bolt/hanger and one loose hanger (but none spin more than an eighth of a turn)."  Awesome, thanks Bob!  

Sharkstooth looking high and dry

Alpine rock is dry and crisp...a bit looser, perhaps, with a wetter Spring behind us but overall a great way to spend the day climbing and escape the heat of the valleys.  I've spent a couple days around Andrew's Creek this week.  The Sharkstooth itself appears dry but the Gash is still quite filled in with snow as is the approach.  The S. Face of Otis sports lots of great, sunny climbing; we did a quick ascent of Zowie, which was a lot of fun.  

Luke T. on the final pitch of Zowie's S. Face

I rec'd a report from skiers recently as well.  The report was from a trip in the Indian Peaks but the snowpack and terrain are similar enough to be relevant.  Jason Matthews sent in this report: "[I] can confirm there is still a lot of snow if you are willing to hoof it.  [We] skied east aspect of Jasper on Friday...seemed like an 8 ft base; skied very well, nice corn on top of a solid base.  [We] skied Northstar on North Arapahoe on Saturday, [which was] a little softer, perfect spring skiing.  Snow was much less dense immediately adjacent rock faces but firmed within a foot.  [I] saw only a single sluff off a rock face the entire weekend.  Neva looked great in the distance; a couple of skiers threw down some nice turns.  If you have any diehard clients, you should let them know there is still some great skiing to be had."

Tons of unclimbed rock on Otis' S. Face

So there you have it, something for everyone these days.  Some alpine ice, some great scrambling, some dry alpine rock, and even still some snow-climbing and skiing.  For climbers, mountaineers and skiers, RMNP is a great venue this time of year.  Conditions continue to change rather quickly and, even with a dozen guides in the field every day, it's difficult to stay updated on it all.  So if you see something you think we should know about, or if you just have questions, please feel free to e-mail me at acouncell@totalclimbing.com.  I'm always psyched to hear from readers and happy to help out where I can!  Do yourself a favor, get out climbing in the Park now 'cause this is about as good as it gets.  While you're at it, forget about the numbers for a while and just let yourself return to the essence of climbing, where it's all about fun, exploration and adventure.

Andrew Councell is a full-time CMS Guide and year-round Estes Park resident

RMNP Conditions Report - July 15, 2011

 Climbing high on Spearhead's N. Ridge

A people who climb the ridges and sleep under the stars in high mountain meadows, who enter the forest and scale peaks, who explore glaciers and walk ridges buried deep in snow--these people will give their country some of the indomitable spirit of the mountains.  

-- U.S. Supreme Court justice William O. Douglas

Looking into the Dragontail area, lots of snow above Emerald Lake

With warmer temps upon us, the weather seems to have fallen into a somewhat typical pattern of afternoon thunderstorms.  But is it just me or are these storms somehow worse than usual?  There have been more than a few vicious storms bringing pounding rain and lightning here in the Park but I keep hearing about how bad they've been along the Front Range.  Aside from a few windy days here in Estes, the winds seem to be confined to the alpine where, even still, they're not giving up the fight.  Still, one can't complain too loudly with blue skies each morning and warm temps to beckon you into the mountains.  And then there's the explosion of greenery in the valleys and on hillsides, not to mention the long wildflower season we're enjoying.  This is one of the best times of year to be in the mountains!

Enjoying fun in the sun on Hallet's "Great Dihedral"

It's summer and CMS guides are leading trips all over the Front Range.  With so many of us in the field each day, we're able to really stay on top of the ever-changing conditions of the mountains in which we work.  So here's a bit of what we're seeing out there:

Sunrise on McHenry's over ice bergs in Black Lake

Snow continues to recede and give way to eager climbers looking to exchange the hot Boulder-based cragging for high-altitude climbing.  In the last two weeks, I've heard of nearly every formation in the Park being climbed despite the snow clinging to most of the approaches/descents.  The Diamond on Longs, for example, has seen a number of ascents but with parties reporting some wet spots generated from the still-melting snow patches above.  Snow climbing is still great, however, with plenty of coverage around the Park.  The Ptarmigan Fingers are still holding lots of snow but apparently still have cornices hanging on as well.  Notchtop Couloir is reportedly still in top to bottom. 

 Elk grazing below McHenry's NE Face

Stone Man Pass on McHenry's is fully snow and the peak's E. Face also sports some big cornices.  The Trough on Longs is melted out about a quarter up from the bottom but retains snow all the way up to the Narrows.  Amazingly, there are still a few good zones off of Trail Ridge Road for easy-access skiing/climbing if you're not quite ready to hang up the winter gear just yet.  The N. Face of Sundance Mountain, for example, still offers a few options.  I saw lots of snow on Ypsilon today and the N. Face of Longs has a large section of snow on the middle of the face, above the old Cables Route.  It sounds like Dreamweaver on Mt. Meeker is melted out.

Amazing climbing above the Barb on the Spearhead

Alpine rock season is in full swing by this point but don't let the hot temps and dry rock fool you.  Boots are still the footwear of choice for approaching/descending many of the more popular formations.  On a recent trip into Glacier Gorge, we found predominately snow-travel conditions about three-quarters of a mile before Black Lake.  Most of the trail from that point is under snow and could be rather difficult to follow if you don't know the way (or even if you do).  Ice bergs are still floating around in Black Lake.  The bivy sites below the Spearhead are relatively dry with lots of running water around making for ideal camping.  On our trip up the N. Ridge, we didn't need crampons but boots were a great asset.  Approach shoes would have been too light and could've made the final approach to the base of the rock a little more exciting than we wanted.  We did take ice axes, though, and used them on the glissade back into the flats.  Less experienced folks might find an axe helpful when traversing snow-covered portions of the trail.  A slip-n-slide into the creek or a moat could ruin the day (or week). 

Topping out another great route on Hallet; Emerald Lake far below

All the routes on the Spearhead appear to be mostly dry; we saw a number of parties charging up The Barb.  We encountered a bit of wetness on the first three pitches of the N. Ridge but otherwise climbed dry rock (until it started raining at 8am).  We did the east ledges descent from the summit and found the talus to be more loose than usual.  There was also a massive rock fall off the northern ridge/buttress of Chiefshead, with Eurovan-sized boulders littering the east side of the snow apron between Chiefshead and Spearhead.  Combined with other rock fall or climber generated falling rock these last weeks, I'm seeing a pattern of a bit more looseness than many of us are used to. 

The rappel descent off Hallet

I also guided a trio of climbers up Hallet's amazing north face on the Great Dihedral.  We found some wetness here and there but, otherwise, the only snow we found was just getting to the base of the route, about 300' of it.  If doing the rappel descent, maybe take along a bit of sling/cord to leave behind for the second rappel station.  It was looking a little lean.  We had two ropes so just rapped past it; I'd like to have added to the anchor but billowing clouds from the west suggested a bit of haste.  As it was, we got pretty wet anyway on the hike out from Emerald Lake...the full alpine experience!  Speaking of which, the raps off Notchtop could probably also use a little love, at least the uppermost station. 

 Big rockfall off the E. side of Chiefshead's N. Face

Another look at the rockfall zone

As far as Longs Peak goes, I saw some of the Keyhole Route from Glacier Gorge the other day and it looked plenty snowy to me.  The Ledges started out dry but then appeared to be snow-covered for the second half and into the Trough.  I couldn't see the Narrows or Homestretch.  But CMS Guide Russell Hunter was guiding up there recently and said that most of the snow was avoidable.  Now, when we're guiding the Keyhole we have ropes, harnesses, and helmets as well as other climbing equipment that allows us to comfortably and safely deviate from the standard route.  The marked route may or may not be entirely snow free but it does sound like it's possible to make an ascent without spending too much time on snow.  Where Russell did have to cross snow as at the top of the Trough, getting into the Narrows.  Clark's Arrow is dry.  The Loft continues to melt out, with the cliffs near the top becoming more exposed every day.  The Bypass is probably your best bet at this point for both ascent/descent.  And, finally, a recent report from Kieners suggests that, although wet, it's possible to traverse Broadway without needing to travel on snow.  Obviously Lambslide is all snow but it sounds like the rest of the route is just wet, with upper snow patches being avoidable. 

Funky weather swirling around McHenry's east side, Stone Man Pass filled in with snow

Oh yeah, there are a couple of bridges "out" on the approach into Glacier Gorge.  They're still passable but there's a chance you could get pretty wet if you slipped off the current makeshift construction.  Twin Owls and area (and other formations) remain closed at Lumpy Ridge for raptor nesting but otherwise Lumpy is great right now.

One of the bridge crossings on the way into Mills Lake

We're in the midst of an awesome summer with great conditions for many amazing objectives.  Conditions change very quickly this time of year, from snow cover to creek flow to rockfall to weather.  I could never hope to keep up with the daily changes taking place so if you see something you think I should know about it, please send me a note.  Or if you just have questions, feel free to e-mail me at acouncell@totalclimbing.com.  Thanks for reading and stay safe out there!

Andrew Councell is a CMS Guide and year-round Estes Park resident

 

A view of McHenry's and Arrowhead above Black Lake

 Climbing the crux pitch on Spearhead's N. Face

The First Annual Rocky Mountain Rendezvous

The 1st Annual Rocky Mountain Rendezvous will be held in Estes Park on August 26 and goes through to the 28th. This event is intended to partner with The 11th Annual Lumpy Ridge Trail Day on August 27th.

Come one, come all! This is an open invitation to the climbing community to come and enjoy each other's company, while drinking FREE BEER, scoring free give a ways that are being raffled off from companies like La Sportiva and Marmot. There will also be slide shows presented by sponsored climbers, like Tommy Caldwell.

All the proceeds from the event will benefit The American Alpine Club, and The Access Fund.

Not only that, but in the name of Lumpy Ridge we can all get a chance to give back to this amazing place that we all get to enjoy, by volunteering a day of service to help maintain the area.

Friday Night at 6pm we are kicking it off at Ed's Cantina and Grill in Estes Park! Saturday is Lumpy Ridge Trail Event, volunteers are welcome to free food courtesy of Poppy's Pizza and Grill. Sunday Colorado Mountain School is offering climbing clinics.

We are asking folks who want to participate in the events to register with us by calling: 1-800-836-4008 x 3