Colorado Mountain School Blog

Trip Report: Ice Climbing with CMS Guide Andrew Councell

2012-01-24T10:03:00.001-07:00

Being from Ohio, Toby Gandy doesn't have much access to big terrain for skiing. He made the trip out to Colorado to take an AIARE Avalanche Level 1 Course with us, along with a guided day in Rocky Mountain National Park. Originally Toby wanted to ski Corral Couloir...

...With the minimal snow coverage RMNP had in early December we agreed that a good ski decent was going to be challenging to find. At best it would be limited to survival turns with a chance of core shots - not optimal for a fun day out. I'd always wanted to try ice climbing and also wanted some coaching on basic mountaineering skills, so we decided on an ice climb with an approach on skis.

Our day started off with a quick tour up the summer trail to Loch Vale's "Mo Flo than Go" ice route. Once at the climb we transitioned to crampons. With a quick review of belay and basic ice climbing skills, CMS Guide Andrew Councell led the route and setup up a top rope. I'd never ice climbed before (and have minimal rock climbing experience) so with a good dose of adrenaline I planted my pick. Thock, thock, kick, kick and I was off. My first attempt was up lookers right. A small pitch with a bench in the middle and then on up to the trees at the top. With a quick traverse across the top rock ledge I was done and ready to rappel back to the ground. I felt pretty good and was having a great time. It's a great feeling to be in such a quiet location with just the simple sounds of climbing to be heard.

Author Toby Gandy learning how to ice climb at Loch Vale in RMNP.

The next pitch was up the left hand vertical side. Andrew took a couple of laps and I had a couple more climbs up the pitch. Inevitably my arms began to get pumped and I was struggling to keep going. Andrew did a great job of explaining how to climb more efficiently and I managed to hang in there for a final lap.

CMS Guide Andrew Councell looking sylish with his new Marmot Spire Pants.

Exhilarated and exhausted, Andrew suggested we take a break. He ran through the basics of building THINX ski anchors, then worked on explaining ice screw placement and finally showed me how to make a v-slot anchor. After a quick bite to eat we packed up our gear and ran our rope through a natural ice column to act as a our final rappel anchor. With skis on we rappelled backwards onto the first part of the slope, pulled the rope through and got a couple of quick turns in down to the trail.

Learning ski mountaineering skills: rappelling with your skis on.

We toured on up Tyndall creek drainage and across Bear lake to get a view of some of the walls further up but unfortunately the clouds were obscuring the view. After some scrambling across some talus we got back to the trail and skied back down to the parking lot - an adventure in itself.

After a quick ride back to the CMS office to drop off gear we headed to Ed’s Cantina for beers and food. What a great day, with an excellent and friendly guide. A fantastic new sport which I will definitely try again - I'm hooked.

~Toby Gandy

Book your trip with today!

Colorado Mountain School
1-800-836-4008 ext 3
info@totalclimbing.com

Weekly Monday Gear Review: Marmot Spire Pants

2012-01-23T15:51:00.003-07:00

At first glance I thought the Marmot Spire Pants were bibs, and bibs areoften just too hot for me on the up portion of the day. But they are reallypants with suspenders, which are easily removable. However with the back yoke for the suspendersbeing mesh, the sweat factor is a non-issue. As it turns out, I have yet toremove them and kind of like wearing the waist loose with the suspendersholding up the pants.

With two way full side zips, it is easy to ventilate theupper legs while the lower legs stay protected from the powder. Lightweight andfully waterproof Goretex construction with 3 zippered pockets and built ingaiters completes the package. Speaking of the gaiters, I hate struggling withgaiters too tight to fit over my ski boots, the fit is perfect on these.

I have been wearingthese primarily for skiing, both lift served and backcountry, as well as forteaching avalanche courses which involve a lot of wallowing in the snow. Theyhave performed very well for all my uses and have kept me warm in the 70mphwinds we have been having.

I plan to try themout ice climbing soon and have a hunch that they will do just fine, though aharness may restrict access to the pockets and they do have a looser fit than Iam used to in an ice climbing pant, so we’ll see.

Designed as a ski pant, I give them 2 thumbs up for design,construction and comfort when used as such.

The colors available (I have the yellow) are just a bonusand a nice change from the black, black or more black choices in technicalpants I have become accustomed to for the last decade. All in all a pant I am quite happy with. Theyare not so lightweight that I will rip them up easily, but the they will let merip up the slopes!

Mark Hammond
Head Mountain Guide
Colorado Mountain School

Ice Conditions: Hidden Falls and Vail

2012-01-23T11:10:00.001-07:00

Hidden Falls is in great. I was there on Tuesday (1/17). The main flow is moving towards a mixed line to the right and growing over the rock.

I have been ice guiding up in Vail for the past couple of days and found plastic ice conditions in the Designator Amphitheater. We climbed the Staircase to the Pencil, and Eraser. Staircases is wet and dripping. The Pencil is still growing and fat. The Eraser is trimming down. We also visted the Firehouse area which is still growing and not to chopped out.

HEADS UP on the approach to both areas! I put crampons and harness, helmets onat the start of the steep gullies due to snow covered ice patches as well astroughs from folks coming down at the end of the day. There has also been some naturalfalling ice from really warm temps around the Fang.

Joey Thompson

CMS Guide
800-836-4008 x3

Scarpa Maestrale Ski Boot review

2012-01-18T14:48:00.000-07:00

The Scarpa Maestrale is the lightest four buckle boot on themarket and is designed to be the perfect touring boot. What does this mean? Forme it means a touring boot that fits my foot well (Intuition Liners are a mustfor me, and remember to shell size. If you don’t know how, please ask asalesperson for help) has a great range of motion in the cuff while touring, isDynafit compatible, is stiff enough to move bigger (larger than 100mmunderfoot) skis, and does not weigh more than concrete.

How does the Maestrale fit into these parameters? The bootfits me really well. I am a 26.5 and the intuition liner when formed filledevery little area between my foot and the shell. When in touring mode the rangeof motion may not reach the claimed 40 degrees, but I am also not physicallyable to use 40 degrees efficiently for more than a few strides. It is Dynafitcompatible, and is just stiff enough for larger skis in backcountry snowconditions.

I have been able to ski the Maestrale with the K2 Coombacks(102 underfoot) and the LaSportiva Hi5 (105 underfoot) in variable conditionsfrom spring corn, to wind crust a few inches thick. The boot skied preciselyand comfortably in all conditions besides the wind crust. This may have been theskier more than the boot, but I would love a little extra stiffness as Coloradoseems to have variable snow conditions on occasion. On two occasions I skied agroomed run at the area and was pleasantly surprised at how well the boot heldup at speeds.

The asymmetrical tongue makes the boot easy for entry andexit, while the alpine tounge closure seems to hold my lower foot quite stableand precisely. The buckles are light and seem to be holding up and the powerstrap is effective and even has a bit of elastic that helps secure it. The walkski mechanism is easy to use (seems like all boots these days), and I wouldrecommend the Maestrale as a great lightweight, four buckle, touring boot. Ifyou are looking for a boot that handles drops, faster speeds, and crushes thecrud, this is not the boot for you. For that check out the Scarpa Mobe.

Hope you enjoy and lets all pray for Snow.

Mike Alkaitis

CMS Senior Guide

malkaitis@totalclimbing.com

For your enjoyment: In this video CMS Guide, Mike Alkaitis, skis at a local area

called Caribou with his Scarpa Maestrales.

Weekly Monday Gear Review: Black Diamond Punisher Gloves

2012-01-16T08:00:00.000-07:00

Climbers are pretty finicky when it comes to climbinggear...any climbing gear. This is especially true, however, when dealingwith climbing gloves because it's with our hands that we feel connectedto the mountain.

Since our hands are so integral to climbing, it stands toreason that climbing gloves should be tough, warm, grippy, dexterous, sexy andfunctional. Enter Black Diamond's Punisher gloves...they fit thebill. When in doubt, the Punisher glovesare my go-to glove because they excel in a variety of conditions anduses. Gloves, unlike mittens, aren't designed for uber-cold conditionsand yet I've used my Punishers for below-zero climbs in Rocky Mountain Nat'lPark for years. As long as you're hydrated, well fed and active, these glovesprovide ample protection from the cold. When leading on ice, it can bedownright dangerous to climb with a bulky glove: carabiners are hard to open,screws are easily dropped and the rope is fumbled. Not good. However, too-thin gloves sacrifice the warmth for their nimbleness and for mostof us frostbite just isn't an option. The BD Punisher gloves strike anear-perfect balance between these two worlds of warmth and dexterity, in myopinion. My test? If I can't manipulate a small, fickle zipper withmy gloves on, they don't pass.

The Punishers have a thin plastic membrane built in thatkeeps the gloves functionally waterproof. Although this membrane inhibitsbreathability, it’s also crucial to have in cold, alpine environments. The palms are grippy leather that usually take some time before they saturateand freeze. My trick is to have two pairs of Punishers, one for theclimbing/belaying and another pair zipped inside my jackets, close to mybody. When one pair gets wet, I swap them out for the dry pair and atleast warm up the first pair, and so on. Other features include asmall-but-effective gauntlet to keep snow and ice from pouring into yourjacket's sleeves while your arms are overhead and a finger loop on eachglove. This finger loop functions as a quick way to remove the gloveone-handed in a pinch (it helps to have a BD ice clipper on your harness: justhook the finger loop on the clipper and pull your hand out of the glove). Again, this little feature isn't something I use very often but it sure helpswhen you're hanging by one arm, need to get your other glove off and yourmouth/teeth are incapacitated for some reason.

These gloves excel in the worlds of cold, snow andice. With near daily use, my Punishers typically last me a few seasons. Again, they're my go-to glove from ice to moderate mixed climbing, from heinousalpine to easy mountaineering. They do almost everything perfectly. Oh, and they're sexy.

Andrew Councell

Colorado Mountain School Guide
800-836-4008 x3

Weekly Monday Gear Review: Marmot Powder 8 Jacket

2012-01-09T08:00:00.000-07:00

I’d like to introduce everyone to my new jacket of choice, the Marmot Powder 8. I’ve been wearing my Team Red version for some time now and I have to say that is my go-to jacket.

The Powder 8 Jacket is a jack(et) of all trades. It keeps me warm, it’s comfortable and soft to the touch. Plus it looks good. I’ve worn this jacket for everything, from multi-pitch rock routes during these cooler times, to Christmas Mass. In fact my mother even complimented me on it. That never happens with my outdoor attire. To me the Powder 8 is the perfect combination of jacket, sweater, and fleece. It has the protection of a jacket, the look of a sweater, and the feel of fleece. You can’t go wrong.

If you are in the market for a jacket, I recommend you check out the Powder 8 from Marmot. I give it two thumbs up.

-E.J. Nogaski
Colorado Mountain School
800-836-4008 x3

RMNP Conditions Report - Dec. 22, 2011 (updated 12/23)

2011-12-22T20:20:00.002-07:00

Rapping off New Beginnings at the Guides Wall, RMNP

I recently read a disturbing line in an avalanche bulletin from another mountain range, in another state, apparently also suffering from this snow-drought we're having: According to their records dating back to 1945, the only worse Decembers (thus far) for lack of snow where in 1976 and 1962. Northern Colorado isn't alone, other areas around the country are also feeling the impotence of early winter storms (although the southern ranges in Colorado are doing comparatively well). That being said, there's a reason patience is a virtue and the winter is truly only just beginning. For the last few weeks, the snows have managed to dodge Rocky Mountain Nat'l Park, giving us a mere few inches in that time. But things are looking up with a few more inches last night and the hope of more snow in the future. Here in Estes, we received about 6-7" with greater amounts in Boulder (16" at another guide's house there). Snow amounts tend to drop to lackluster levels the further west you travel, a classic up-slope storm...again.

Taking the skis for a walk near Timberline Falls

Here at CMS we've already run two AIARE Level 1 courses in the Park despite the shallow snow-pack. Still, we've managed to find deep-enough pockets of snow for observation profiles/pits and have found lots of weak snow to keep us interested. Generally speaking, our snow-pack overall is comprised of a series of wind-slabs above treeline and a mostly faceted snow-pack below treeline. Many guides have also noted surface hoar around the Park. In the last weeks, skiing on bullet-hard "wind board" above treeline gave way to bottomless facets in the trees. In both zones, a substantial load of new snow will tip the scales towards instability. Above treeline, the primary concern will continue to be wind-slabs freshly formed from the new snow; elsewhere, a faceted snow-pack speckled with areas of buried surface hoar will prove tricky for backcountry travelers. Be aware, buried surface hoar and the profusion of such weak structure in the snow-pack throughout the Park are conditions that we as locals are not accustomed to seeing. This might be considered abnormal conditions requiring extra caution as new snow is added to the system.

AIARE Level 1 students psyched on triggering a small avalanche on this test/indicator slope

Wind slab debris from our small avalanche near Lake Haiyaha

Admittedly, the skiing hasn't been the greatest around here for a while now. As the snow-pack has weakened, skiers and boarders have been "discovering" the hidden obstacles underneath, often breaching all layers and smacking the actual ground. Trails have been hard-packed and icy. Thanks to a super-strong wind event in mid-November, lots of trees are down creating another challenge until they're buried. However, good turns can still be found in the most protected zones but a word of advice: use your rock skis. The Park has received just enough new snow to camouflage many obstacles so we're all skiing like ninjas despite the freshies. It's only going to get better from here...it's gotta!

CMS Guide Norie Kizaki topping out a grade 5 pillar in Officer's Gulch

Thankfully, poor skiing conditions often mean good ice climbing conditions and many of the guides here have been taking full advantage of that. These last few weeks have been generally good for the Park ice with many of the routes in better shape than most years. We've been guiding the classics like All Mixed Up and Notchtop's NE Face as well as climbing around Black Lake and the Loch areas. None of our crew has ventured into the Longs Peak Cirque in a while but reports are that Alexander's Chimney is the only worthwhile route in the area aside from the usual obscuraties.

Climbing ice in ski boots (ski mountaineering training) at Loch Vale

- All Mixed Up: CMS guides Joey Thompson, Chris Burke and Matt Lipscomb all climbed the route within the week. The approach was packed in nicely above Mills Lake but the new snow will make things more challenging. They reported marginally-bonded ice in some sections but the worst were passable with rock protection. The final pitch is super fat and is not currently the crux of the route. The descent was snow-covered talus hopping but, again, the new snow will probably hide some nasty holes.

Fat ice!

- NE Face, Notchtop and area: CMS guides Mike Soucy and Roy Leggett climbed this route recently and reported easy climbing on the ice with decent snow-climbing en route. The first pitch, which can be tricky in thin years, was all ice. Mike and Roy climbed past Hot Doggie via a couple ice pitches low on the Face and said it looked good up close.

Notchtop arena: Hot Doggie standing tall, Grace Falls on left, NE Face disappearing into the cloud

I went up to climb the Face yesterday but strong winds, new snow, near-zero visibility, worsening weather and fresh wind-slab caused us to veer onto the Guides Wall instead. From what little we could see of the Face, conditions were similar to what Mike and Roy reported with Hot Doggie looking fatter than I've ever seen. I heard a 2nd-hand report, though, that the ice on Doggie was "game on" climbing. Grace Falls is also the biggest I've seen in years, very wide with options ranging from thin-ice smears to WI4 pillars and easier lines on the periphery.

Another view of the Guides Wall ice

As I just mentioned, we ended up climbing at the Guides Wall and found the left-most flow to be about 250' of super-fat WI3+/- depending on the line. There are a number of cool mixed climbs on the Wall; we climbed New Beginnings, for example, and it was really good. The ice on Guides Wall, like Hot Doggie, faces pretty much East and has suffered from all the warmth. Some has recently fallen down. Some of the pillars and daggers were a bit rotted out and quite hollow sounding. But lots to do in that area. It'd be worth bringing flotation (snowshoes) for accessing Grace Falls and Guides Wall to avoid the off-trail wallowfest we enjoyed.

More fat ice on the Guides Wall, this WI3ish section about 250' long

- Hidden Falls: I was climbing here with some friends about a week ago and found the climb to be in decent shape. I led up to the bolts in the cave (bolts still good) and opted not to climb the final 8' pillar to the top. The pillar was detached on one side and dripping like ten slobbering mastiffs so we avoided it and stayed on the better, drier ice. The little WI3- flow on the left is somewhat in, good ice but not yet connected all the way to the ledge.

Climbing at Hidden Falls, overall good ice

Little WI3 flow at Hidden Falls

- Loch Vale ice: A number of guides have been here already this year and report increasingly better conditions. Alas, this area has seen heavy traffic and pretty much everything is hooked and hacked. On the one hand, hooking your way to glory is kinda fun but on the other it's still pretty cool to climb more virgin ice. Nearly all the main flows are in good shape, with Mo' Flo' Than Go having a more distinct upper tier than usual. CMS guide Steve Johnson was climbing at the Crypt recently and also reported great climbing with the route being in WI4 shape. I saw the Freezer Burn/Cold Storage area recently and, from afar anyway, it looked like it was doing really well.

Practicing ski mountaineering skills at Loch Vale, here rapping off a V-thread

- Elsewhere, Jewel Lake is doing well but the approach crosses a number of braided streams and with such a shallow snow-pack people have been punching through and getting wet. The routes up at Black Lake are reportedly all in; the usual caution should be used for the W. Gully area in terms of avalanches. CMS guide Bob Chase went to check out the Big Thompson ice and reported that it's in and will just be getting fatter. There's a few distinct lines; unfortunately, the lower flow isn't in. The approach, at the moment, is pretty good with the river being frozen and good logs for crossing. Ice outside of the Park is also doing really well.

Rapping off 'Round the Corner, Officer's Gulch

I was climbing in Officer's Gulch last week on 'Round the Corner and we found fat, blue ice for a number of fun little pitches. Vail ice is in good, here's the latest report from Dale Remsberg: Rigid Designator is in WI5 shape and a bit harder than usual; Spiral Staircase is fat and hooky; Secret Probation with good ice at the crux; the Pencil and Eraser are both in and looking good; the Fang is in but still in the WI7 range and doesn't look like it's been climbed yet. There's not much snow on the approach to the Ampitheatre, making the approach easier in some regards but harder getting up the steep sections near the end (crampons may help).

Huge tree uprooted near Timberline Falls from November's wind-storm

That's the latest from our end but, as usual, conditions can and often do change quickly around here. The avalanche danger has spiked with this latest storm and the new snow will hide everything from well-traveled trails to rocks. Common sense and caution will go a long way. With the shortest day of the year soon behind us, I'm sure we're all looking forward to sunnier days in the future. Thanks for reading and if you have observations to share or questions, feel free to drop me a line at acouncell@totalclimbing.com. Stay safe!

Andrew Councell is a CMS Senior Guide and year-round Estes Park resident

Low-angle but creamy and...

**Update 12/23**

I was skiing at Hidden Valley today along with a number of others (maybe a couple dozen other folks in total). Snow amounts there were not as much as the CAIC posted, more like 5-6" max. Still, if you stayed off the main line the skiing was pretty good on sheltered, north-facing aspects. The Bear Lake snotel did indeed register 9" but Hidden Valley is probably still a safer bet due to lots of traffic (skier compaction) which helps form a base. The winds were light from the NW for most of the morning, gusting to moderate at times. All in all, another beautiful day in the Park and, finally, some pretty good turns.

...sometimes just once isn't good enough

Weekly Friday Video: Santa and Rappelling... Oh no...

2011-12-16T08:00:00.002-07:00

Maybe Santa should take a course at Colorado Mountain School before trying something like this.

If you would like to learn how to rappell... give us a call. We'd love to teach you.

Thanks,

Colorado Mountain School
800-836-4008 x3

Weekly Wednesday Trip Report: CMS Guide staying on top of it.

2011-12-14T09:02:00.000-07:00

We are now entering the 2011-2012 winter season here at the Colorado Mountain School. The CMS team has been training with one another in the Boulder Rock Club climbing gym, skiing in the field, and refreshing the Avalanche department with current and relevant information that has been presented by the Colorado Avalanche Information Center avalanche forecasters.

In addition I've been sitting in on live research discussions from snow scientists from around the globe lecturing about the importance of digging ample snow pack tests, like the compression test and others, that help us mountain guides have more snow awareness. I've been interpreting all this research, looking at avalanche forecasts, and observing snow pack stability so that when I'm traveling through the backcountry, I can accurately assess the avalanche danger for the day.

As one of the Colorado Mountain School's AIARE level 1 instructors, staying up to date on avalanche education is so important.

Our AIARE courses have been filling to near full capacity (which is great to see). CMS participants are checking slope angles and digging to gather information from the snow pack to help make group decisions.

But staying up to date on avalanche safety isn't just for avalanche courses. My continued professional development is an important key to offer my mountaineering guests an educational and exciting experience.

I've recently been out ice climbing as ice season is in "full swing"!! Here Mitch Lasky is climbing his way up a classic pillar in the Loch at RMNP.

As I mentined earlier, I've had the pleasure of spending a fair bit of time out in the field with my co-workers. Here we are getting ready for snow cat skiing at Vail Pass Colorado with the ski staff at CMS and Vail Powder Guides this past Monday. We discussed operating standards and shared info with one another as well as skied down to Black Lakes, a wonderful early season ski with colleges in the back country of Vail.

It is important for my profession, as a mountain guide, to refresh current data regularly, train hard, and have friendly relations with a wide variety of professionals in the industry. Education is key to success when traveling through the wilderness. This allows the individual to enjoy the process of making decisions and see the mountains from another prospective. Please feel free to call or email with questions on our avalanche education or reserve your private one on one with me. I am more that happy to answer your questions comments and concerns with his coming winter season.

Thanks,

Joey Thompson
Senior Level Mountain Guide
Colorado Mountain School
800-836-4008 x3

Weekly Friday Video Post: Proper Probing with BCA

2011-12-09T10:27:00.000-07:00

This is the first weekend of the 2011/2012 season that CMS is offering the AIARE level 1 avalanche course. It only seemed fitting that this week's Friday video post be of something avalanche education related. If you would like to learn more about avalanche education, we suggest you check out one of our AIARE Level 1 courses.

Stay safe out there.

Colorado Mountain School

800-836-4008 x3

Conditions Report from Tuesday, December 6

2011-12-08T17:02:00.001-07:00

On Tuesday, December 6, I had the opportunity to head out to Rocky Mountain National Park with CMS Senior Guide Steve Johnson. We were skiing around to check out ice conditions in the Glacier Gorge and Loch Vale areas in RMNP and then headed to Hidden Falls. The temps were cold on Tuesday, but there was no wind, making for a great day out in the park. Check out the photos below!

CMS Senior Guide prepared for the cold day. Layers were shed 15 minutes from the trailhead.

Dragontail Couloirs.

2.2 miles to this point. We decided to go to Mills Lake first, then Loch Vale.

Skinning in on the well packed trail.
There are a few thin spots with rocks on the trail, so heads up on the ski down!

Mills Lake- all alpine lakes are completely frozen over.

All Mixed Up is IN!

Loch Vale: Mixed Feelings and Mo "Flo" Than Go.

Loch Vale- Chrystal Meth.

Steve skinning in on Loch Vale, with the Cathederal Spires in the background.

South Face of Otis.

Crypt is IN.

Passing over the creek on the way to Hidden Falls.

Hidden Falls. Heads up- conditions changed within 24 hours and it doesn't look like this anymore.

Thursday afternoon I recieved a phone call in the office for updated Hidden Falls ice conditions. The ice changed within 24 hours and climbers on Wednesday said that most of the ice was gone. Pillars had fallen and it is now a cold, wet, gushing waterfall, with nothing much left to climb. We advise to let Hidden Falls build up again before you head out to climb.

We have ice courses heading out this weekend, so give me a call and I can get you all set up! We also offer custom guiding any day of the week. Steve Johnson, along with all our guides, would be stoked to take you out for a day of ice climbing!

-Katy Pfannenstein

Colorado Mountain School

Sales and Marketing Associate

Expedition Manager

1-800-836-4008 ext 3

http://www.totalclimbing.com/

Weekly Wednesday Blog Post: Tips to better enjoy your sub-zero outdoor pursuits

2011-12-07T08:00:00.003-07:00

It’s been frigid on the Front Range this week. Highs in the mountains are in the single digits, with enough wind to freeze your skin before you know it. I’m not complaining. Cold weather means light pow and more ice.

I was out Monday checking it out and thought a useful blog post would provide a few tips to better enjoy your sub-zero outdoor pursuits this winter.

1. Hold What You’ve Got

It’s easier to stay warm than it is to get warm. On days like yesterday, my puffy jacket lives on top of my pack. When I stop for a rest or a snack, it’s the first thing to go on, along with a warm hat. You start to cool down as soon as you stop moving, so layer up and keep the heat in!

2. Stoke the Furnace!

Cold calls for calories and hydration. Remember that proper hydration is essential to supplying fuel and energy to body parts to facilitate heat production. Once the cold weather rolls around, I replace one of my water bottles with a thermos of hot tea. Be careful with bladder systems, as they tend to freeze. I also eat higher calorie food in the winter. Time to ditch the lettuce and cucumber sandwich, it’s P.B. and Nutella season!

3. Keep Your Digits Warm

Cold fingers are probably the most common problem while out on cold days. The screaming barfies are not a mandatory rite of passage. One mistake that I see occurs when people take their gloves off to complete a task. Dropping your gloves in the snow at your feet immediately makes them cold (see tip #1). Now you are stuck stuffing your hands in icy gloves. Whenever you take off your gloves, stuff them in your coat and keep the heat! Toes are more difficult as they are generally immobile in your boots. Proper fitting insulated boots and clean, dry socks are the ticket. Consider shake n’ warm heaters if you have trouble with circulation.

There you have it. Three tips for staying warm and enjoying your days out this season. Now as far as finding the best snow and ice, I can’t tell you, but I can show you. Give us a call when you’re ready to get the goods. Have fun out there and hope to work with you soon!

Take care,

Mike Soucy

CMS Guide

800-836-4008 x3

Weekly Monday Gear Review: Backcountry Access Alp 40

2011-12-05T08:26:00.000-07:00

Guiding is a profession that requires a myriad of equipment for various applications while holding up against years of abuse. I am no exception, and when it comes to packs I am not only abusive but picky as well. Finding a pack that will do the job it’s designed for is not an easy task, but I think I have nailed it with the Backcountry Access Alp 40 liter.

I used this pack almost exclusively ski touring for the 2010/2011 winter. The Alp 40 has a number of features I think are great. Most importantly, it carries well. The pack comes with ample shoulder and hip padding so your torso stays comfortable on that 7000ft Alaskan tour. The pockets on the hip belt are perfect for storing a compass, a snack, and chapstick for quick easy access. The pack also features back panel zippered access so you can grab your puffy coat that you accidently buried at the bottom of your pack when the mercury starts dropping.

Let’s talk professional features. The Alp 40 comes with a Velcro side pocket to conveniently store your avalanche probe and shovel handle as well as an external zippered pocket to store your shovel blade. The pack lid is removable to make it lower profile and comes with a helmet fly. BCA made the pack capable of carrying skis diagonally as well as A-frame style so you have options when booting couloirs in the spring. The side compression straps can be linked together to carry a snowboard or snowshoes if you aren’t on skis. The Alp 40 also comes with BCA’s patented freeze-proof hydration system that accommodates a bladder or wide-mouth water bottle.

All in all, this is a great pack for recreational and professional use. I look forward to another winter in my BCA Alp 40 and will be my go to for my upcoming American Mountain Guides Association Ski Mountaineering Guides Exam.

Eric Whewell

CMS Senior Guide

AMGA Certified Rock & Alpine Guide

Weekly Wednesday Blog Post: Looking through a client's eyes

2011-11-30T08:21:00.000-07:00

Thursday was... a day of cold, wind, clouds, sun, adventure, challenge, and fun!

Eldorado Canyon State Park is simply a maze of quality challenging climbs - leaving you tired, satisfied, and ready for more – especially with an experienced guide, Steve Johnson.

CMS Senior Guide, Steve Johnson, guiding in Ecuador

Meeting at the parking lot at the beginning of Eldo's tall canyon walls, we readied our gear. The location of this area is perfect - just outside of Boulder Colorado. Steep climbable cliffs line the edge of rushing South Boulder Creek. After a 30 minute uphill trudge we reach the base of the Rewritten. Wind, cold, and clouds had us wearing every piece of clothing we had, but by the time Steve led the first pitch the sun came sweetly flooding our little rock world! Shedding two layers, I began climbing the first pitch of this classic. There was almost every type of climbing movement on this great route; face, crack, lie-back, chimney, roof, inset. But the best and most exciting was that the sharp, exposed arête near the top of pitch 4(?). Stepping out into space with winds gusting 40 - 50 mph took all my courage! All the while, Steve calling out encouragement, "you CAN do this!" And then the step across the void onto another face from the arête was definitely the "move of the day." Steve drew out of me the willingness to trust how he told me exactly where to place my feet as I stemmed out across this scary void!

The amazing arete pitch. Photo taken from mountainproject.com

We topped out but the adventure wasn't quite over. The decent required careful route finding and down climbing some steep 4th class terrain. Steve led the way safely and kept the rope on me until we were back on the main trail.

We finally reached our packs left at the start of the climb many hours before. The fall sun was setting and the blue day sky was turning an amazing deep azure - all while a train chugged way up high across the canyon in the fading light. This golden day was made possible because of Steve's experience, incredible skill, and great attention to detail. From start to end - a day to remember. I can't wait for another run. "Hey Steve, where to next?!"

-Colorado Mountain School Client, Mary M.

If you would like to get out and climb a route like this one, or any other routes in Eldorado Canyon, let us know. We can guide there any day of the week.

Coloardo Mountain School

800-836-4008 x3

Weekly Monday Gear Review: BCA Tracker2 - The Nerd's Choice

2011-11-28T15:46:00.000-07:00

I'm typically sort of a nerdy guy, fascinated with books, gadgetry, gizmos, numbers and all other things socially awkward. I even talk nasally, have freckles, wear thick glasses and routinely go for days without showering. So when I got my hands on BCA's new Tracker2 avalanche beacon last year, you can just imagine my unclean snort-giggling fits of glee.

Now, this beacon isn't brand new to the market but I'm sold on it despite a number of other cool beacons out there. Despite my nerdicular tendencies, I appreciate the simple and efficient design of the T2 beacon. Boasting an additional antennae and faster micro-processor than it's predecessor, this beacon already out-performs others on the market, including the original Tracker. Ah, but those boys at BCA think of everything, even super-cooling the antennae before building their beacons so that really cold days won't damage the frequency we so vitally rely on. Cold temps can adversely affect the antennae, causing frequency drift but BCA cools them first, then aligns the frequency. It's just one less thing to worry about when you forget the beacon in the car overnight as you rush indoors to catch another rerun of Family Matters.

My favorite feature of the T2 is how quickly it can switch functions, from transmit to search and vice versa. Other beacons have a prolonged start-up time and, in a stressful situation, these 6-15 seconds seem like hours. With the T2, you can turn it on, immediately pull the search "tab" and begin your signal search, all in less than two seconds. The super fast micro-processor gives real-time information as you search and the third antennae effectively eliminates "dead zones" in your fine search phase. Priceless.

As unlikely as multiple-burial scenarios may be, my favorite T2 feature comes in handy when searching for multiple victims. Let's say you've pinpointed one victim and are looking for a second. Your searching beacon will "lock on" to the buried beacon you've just found and will prefer that signal even though you move away, something called signal loyalty. With the T2, it's easy to "reset" your searching beacon simply by pushing in the search tab and immediately pulling it back out. If nothing else, this at least clears the "memory" which might allow you to focus in on the closer, stronger signal. This is just a little shortcut/tip that has helped me find three beacons in a football field of snow in less than two minutes. Dorking out for a few minutes and mastering the ins and outs of "special mode" will also make you an asset in any multiple-burial scenarios. These are just some of the features and one little trick that make the Tracker2 stand out above the rest. If you're interested in honing your companion rescue skills, just tape up your glasses, tighten those suspenders and come on over to CMS for a day of knee-slapping nerdery. I'd love to show you what I know and, chances are, I'll have recently showered. :) Here's to a great, safe winter!

Andrew Councell
CMS Guide and AIARE Level 1 Instructor
800-836-4008 x3

RMNP Conditions Report - Nov. 26, 2011

2011-11-28T13:02:00.001-07:00

Winter is once again resting it's icy mantle on Rocky Mountain Nat'l Park. This year, the process seems to have been more varied than usual, with heavy snows in October and a prolonged rock climbing season (thanks to a series of "Indian Summers" punctuating the snowfalls). As we march into the final days of 2011, the weather looks to keep things interesting with a "chance of snow" hovering ever-elusively on the horizon. Skiers moan and groan, itching to try out the newly bought gear yet stymied by a slow start to the season. But ice climbers rejoice, not having to wallow hopelessly through avalanche-prone drifts or scratch desperately at powder covered rock faces with dulling picks. Alas, for all Park users, the most prominent feature of our northern Colorado winter is alive and well: the wind.

The classic All Mixed Up on Thatchtop's E. Face

After an unprecedented wind event a few weeks ago, what snow was laying in the Park was stripped from the windward slopes and firmly deposited on the leewards. A super-hard wind slab was the result, providing the benefit of a good base for subsequent snows. We've had another 20" of snow since then but the winds have been hard at work again and new wind slabs have formed all over the Park. With multiple layers in our shallow snowpack already, avalanche concerns should be at the forefront of our planning. Last week, while powder skiing at Hidden Valley, a group of us noted a number of shooting cracks and even a small natural release. There's no need to wander into steeper terrain with observations like that.

A climber gets doused by spindrift on AMU

One party climbed Deep Freeze on Thathtop's N. Face is deep, wallowy snow; then another party climbed the same route in fairly dry conditions. The first party roped up on some slopes due to avalanche concern whereas the latter party was able to simply walk on rock. This is just one example of how varied conditions can be in just a matter of days here in the Park. In this case, the winds stripped the rocks bare. Yet another party climbed Deep Freeze yesterday and it sounds like the ice is diminishing, no longer being fed by melting snow. Elsewhere in the Park, ice is in moderately good shape, better than some years but not as good as others.

CMS Guide Mike Soucy climbed All Mixed Up (also on Thatchtop) recently and found good climbing, though the route required a bit more rock gear than some years. By now, the Black Lake area will have substantial ice and even the steeper lines (like Stoneman) are looking good. Jewel Lake ice should be climbable as well. The Loch Vale ice is coming in but has, again, been climbed too soon and as a result will take longer to come into decent shape. Still, climbs like Dr. Wazz and Mixed Emotions are looking good. In the Longs Peak cirque, Dreamweaver is all snow, Martha's is the same and the Smear never touched down. The good news is that Alexander's has been in better shape than in past years. Go figure. I've had no news on Hidden Falls but it seems a bit early for that formation as well. Besides, when the Front Range temps have been as balmy as they have been, why swing at fragile ice when the rock climbing is so good? We have plenty of winter to go.

Skiing at Hidden Valley last week

I've been surprised twice by the quality of backcountry skiing this month at Hidden Valley. Breaking trail in knee-deep snow isn't something I'm accustomed to doing in November but it's a good problem to have. That being said, things are still super bony out there and the base of my skis could prove it. It's fun to ski in November, sort of a novelty really, but your gear will suffer for it. It's possible to ski elsewhere in the Park (Tyndall Gorge for example) but our snowpack is thin and our obstacles abundant.

Outside of the Park, the ice around Summit County is looking good. Lincoln Falls is always the first to form and it's looking like a good start to the season up there. A recent report from Ten Mile Canyon along I-70 reported lots of ice in various gullies that will soon be too avalanche-prone to climb safely. The Vail ice is also coming into shape with lots of routes already in. One report said the Fang was touching but may have been referring to Rigid Designator. There is a new cable for the Fang to form on but even so, it's the earliest I can think of.

I'll be keeping this report updated as new information comes along. Your observations are certainly helpful; feel free to sent them along to acouncell@totalclimbing.com. Thanks and stay safe out there!

Andrew Councell is a CMS Guide and year-round Estes Park resident

Weekly Friday Video: The new kid on the block

2011-11-25T09:29:00.000-07:00

For this Friday's video, we wanted to make sure everyone has a smile on their face.

Watch out Chris Sharma... There's a new kid on the block.

Weekly Wednesday Blog Post: The Purple Route and the Green Route

2011-11-23T08:55:00.000-07:00

Well, the snow is flying, the ice is forming and the sweet days of 60 degrees and sunny are still happening in the Front Range.

Two days ago I climbed in Eldo, yesterday I skied and today I’m climbing in Eldo again. Friday I’ll be climbing in Boulder Canyon, we have ski guide training coming up and our first avalanche course of the season is just around the corner. Life is good.

But what of the purple and green routes you ask? Well gym climbing season is also kicking into high gear.

Each Thursday I take a break from the elements and get into the Boulder Rock Club for some serious plastic pulling with regular clients Tom Stocker and Becky Browning.

Just like last winter, we will spend from now until the snow is gone training for next year’s main rock climbing season. Working on technique, strength, endurance and strategy we also have a great time for a couple of hours out of our busy week. This week Tom’s son Thad also joined us.

Slopers and steeps were the main focus this week with progress made by all. We worked slopers in the bouldering area and the steep moves on full length routes focusing on body position to increase reach while decreasing arm fatigue. Although I have to admit, we also worked a bit on overhanging sloper problems!

Training in the gym can be a great way to hit the ground running (I mean hit the rock sending!) in the spring. I still have a free hour or two on Thursday afternoons, care to join me?

Mark Hammond
Head Guide, Colorado Mountain School
800-836-4008

Weekly Monday Gear Review: Scarpa Mobe

2011-11-21T08:00:00.001-07:00

A friend of mine who works at a popular outdoor retailer recently told me that they are easily selling four pair of AT boots to every one pair of tele boots this fall. Randonee equipment is in the midst of a surge in technology and popularity, and boots are leading the charge.

The only downside to this innovation is the abundance of choice for the consumer. Are we now expected to have a quiver of boots to suit our touring, mountaineering, and racing needs? It seems so, but I will persevere.

Finding the right ski boot, for me, represents the crux of my ski kit assembly. Fit, performance, weight, and binding compatibility all receive equal consideration.

I feel as though I found an appropriate balance last year with the Scarpa Mobe.

The Mobe is Scarpa’s entry in the tech-fitting (Dynafit) compatible freeride category. This is a boot that’s designed to deliver high performance for aggressive skiers in steep terrain. The Mobe will be seen as often in the ski area as in the skin track. Weight and flex are comparable to or better than others in this category (Radium and Titan).

The flex index of the boot is listed as 125. This is a difficult number to interpret objectively or score against other models. Suffice to say that it is a stiff boot in comparison to other touring oriented models out there. What I can say that I appreciate about the Mobe is that it offers a progressive flex that I haven’t experienced with other stiffer boots out there. It offers plenty of power without feeling like my shins are pushing up against a brick wall.

Other details worthy of feedback include the power strap. Specifically…….it is a power strap. It’s plenty wide and its elasticity tightens the cuff around your entire leg.

One thing I would change with this boot is the buckle system. It would be valuable to add some sort of buckle catch that functions to secure the buckles while they are loose.

So, buy this boot if you are an aggressive ski area convert. Buy this boot if you ski big terrain on fat skis and want a stiff and supportive ride. It will not disappoint.

Have fun out there.

Mike Soucy

Colorado Mountain School Guide

800-836-4008 x3

CMS Guide, Ian Fowler, reflects on his recent AMGA course/exam

2011-11-17T12:47:00.000-07:00

American Mountain Guide Association (AMGA) Rock Guide course and Aspirant exam

I really enjoy taking AMGA and other professional development courses, learning new things, practicing existing skills, refining techniques, sharing ideas in a melting pot of guiding experience. At the end of the course, I feel like a better guide because of it and excited for the next step. This course was no exception.

Norie Kizaki on Solar Slab (5.6).

I arrived at Red Rocks with my family (wife Mindy, daughters Vivienne 2.5 and Viola 8 weeks) a week before the AMGA Rock Guide Course and Aspirant Exam with the goal of getting out climbing and practicing some guiding with other course participants. Great in theory, but with little ones it’s difficult to pull off. I managed a couple of climbs and had fun with my family. We did experience everything the strip has to offer a 2.5 year old. It is amazing to see Vegas through the eyes of someone who doesn’t realize that the pirates are actually actors and thinks all those bright lights are cool. Probably my highlight of my “training time” was taking Vivienne “climbing” while Viola slept under a tree and Mindy had the rare chance to climb with a friend.

A good example of Red Rocks varnish on Frigid Air Butress (5.9).

The forecast for the week was unbroken sunshine and highs in the 80s. Far more pleasant than the highs of 109 when I was there last year. I was excited to get rolling with the course and some of the highlights were:

The rescue drill involving various lowers, raises and systems that could be used in a real climber rescue. On the first day we completed the drill and I felt really strong with this. It was great to feel all my practice paid off! It definitely helped me having the best client, thanks Norie for skipping breakfast!
On day 3 we climbed the 3rd, 4th and lower 5th class Cactus Flower Tower, practicing short roping/pitching. Guiding can be such an isolated industry and it is so useful to practice skills while other guides look on with a critical eye. During this day we had lots of good discussions of how we would all guide certain stretches of terrain. This was continued throughout the course but this day was certainly a great catalyst for the following days.
Day 5 through 7 were excellent days of mock guiding other course participants. These days were spent on Ginger Cracks(5.9), Lotta Balls Wall (5.8-5.9) and Group Therapy (5.7) on the Angel Food Wall. I would have happily done 1 or 2 more days of this and found this the most beneficial part of the course.

Black Velvet Canyon at dawn. Sour Mash starts by the right edge of the arch (bottom left side of the picture).

Day 8 and 9 were spent completing the Aspirant Exam (AE). I felt pretty lucky to be paired with Norie Kizaki, a fellow Colorado Mountain School (CMS) guide for this portion of the course. We had trained together and were able to help each other out for the exam portion. Our first Aspirant day we were on Sour Mash (5.10) on the Black Velvet Wall. This is my favorite climbing area in Red Rocks and the climbing was characterised by great in-cut holds with the great red rocks varnish. It was an AMGA party in Black Velvet that day with teams on Epinephrine (5.9, 13 pitches), dream of wild turkeys (5.10), Triassic Sands and Wholesome Fullback (5.10).
Day 9 (day 2 AE) was on the Mescalito, climbing Cat in the Hat (5.7) to the top. When we arrived there was a group on Cat in the Hat so we climbed a route to the right called Cookie Monster. Norie did an excellent job of on-sighting this route. With almost no beta, she took us past all the parties on Cat in the Hat; and then a hand off to Jon for some interesting 4th class stuff to the top. The section I guided was the descent. I had never been there but once I got onto it, all the information I gathered made good sense. I did not feel the need to rush, as I knew we had plenty of day light. I wanted to lower the stress for everyone, including myself. It can be hard switching to being the guide after a day of being a client.
We finished up with a course and individual review. Then I hit the road to race back to Colorado to see my girls who I had missed so much after they flew home at the start of the course.

The amazing rock of Calico Hills with Vegas in the Back Ground.

I need to thank John and Patty Bicknell, without whose generous support I would not have been able to take the course. Thanks also to any clients who gave me gratuity this year. Those tips went directly to pay for this course. Thanks also to other guides at Colorado Mountain School who assisted me with advice and training for the course.

Back home with my girls.

Finally the biggest thank you has to go to my wife, Mindy for allowing me to train and complete this course, despite being new parents with an 8 week old child and a 2.5 yr old. I love you girls.

Ian Fowler

Colorado Mountain School Guide

800-836-4008 x3

Weekly Wednesday Blog Post: The Scenic Cruise

2011-11-16T08:00:00.001-07:00

The Black Canyon is home to some of the longest and best rock climbs in the state of Colorado. It is a place that has an intimidating and dark reputation. Horror stories of bad rock, dicey runouts, and getting benighted can be heard whenever the The Black is mentioned. Think of Yosemite’s bad ugly brother that lives in the attic and you’ll get the picture of this brooding canyon. Despite The Black’s fearsome reputation, the classic routes are as good as you will find anywhere and can be a great place to hone your skills for bigger alpine rock objectives in the greater ranges.

One of my personal favorites, not just in The Black, but anywhere is the ultra-classic “Scenic Cruise.” It’s a 15 pitch (by the guidebook) mostly crack climb straight up the southwest face of the North Chasm View wall. It has everything a climber wants: great climbing, aesthetic quality, good rock, and you top out at the beer cooler. Your first time on a route of this magnitude can be intimidating physically, mentally, and logistically. I hope to dispel some rumors and give some hopefully helpful beta on how to climb The Scenic in a timely, expedient manner.

If you are a solid 5.10 trad leader climbing this route in 8 hours should be totally attainable. Before you go, make sure you and your partner are fast with belay transitions and have good route finding skills. Do your homework: Research the climb beforehand. Read guidebooks, online trip reports, talk to friends, and look at any beta photos you can. Become as familiar with the terrain as you can. Plan ahead: Scout the Cruise Gully entrance the day before so you don’t get lost in the morning. Each climber should have a copy of the topo with them on the climb. Figure out who is leading what pitch before you go. Know that retreat would be difficult and expensive. So here it is, the how to.

The Kit:

Small backpacks for leader and follower (10-15L capacity e.g. Black Diamond BBEE)
Minimum of 2L of water each (Hydration systems are helpful)
Roll of athletic tape
Enough food to keep you going for 12 hours
Knife
Headlamps
Camera
Emergency space blanket (this is something I always carry with me on long routes)
Good weather forecast!

The Rack:

70m rope mandatory for linking pitches
1-2 sets of stoppers with RP’s
1x green C3
1x red C3
2x .3 Camalot
2x .4 Camalot
2x .5 Camalot
2x .75 Camalot
2x 1 Camalot
3x 2 Camalot
2x 3 Camalot
1x 4 Camalot
1x 5 Camalot or #3 Big Bro(optional for OW on crux pitch)
14 alpine draws

The Details:

Don’t forget to sign the board at the Ranger Station. Depending on the time of year (May and October are best) hiking by 6am is usually the best. It will be cold in the morning but you will be basking in sun hanging from perfect hand jams by the time you make it to pitch 3. The Black Canyon mantra of “A rope, a rack, and the shirt on your back” certainly holds true. Light is right. Hike down the Cruise Gully in your climbing shoes. It’s not far to the base of the route and then you won’t have to carry extra shoes on the climb. The rappels in the gully are usually fixed by early May. Check with the Rangers before you go. If you are there in the spring, there’s usually a forest of poison ivy at the base. It can be avoided. Be careful or wear a Tyvek suit if you are allergic. Scout the upper pitches from the base and look to make sure you know where the Scenic goes left and the Cruise goes right. It should be obvious from the base.

The Spraydown:

P1- 5.8 Climb the 5.7 arete then into the slippery groove up through some easy but funky terrain and through the 5.8 hands section to a good stance. There are a number of old rappel anchors in this section. You will be simul-climbing a short ways with your partner. You just linked the first 3 guidebook pitches.

P2- 5.9 Traverse left from the belay into a slightly loose blocky crack system. The climbing is steep and fun. Continue up the corner to a small stance below a shallow right facing corner.

P3- 5.10 Climb the thin corner off the belay (its harder than it looks) to a small stance with a perfect hand crack above you. Fire up the hands passing a small overlap and finishing in some funky peg.

P4- 5.10- “The Peg Traverse.” Not as bad as its reputation. The runouts are on easier terrain and the rock is mostly solid. Climb up off the belay, clip the fixed nut (there is usually some long slings on it). Start climbing down where you can eventually place a .5 camalot that protects stepping around onto the ramp. You can then back clean the piece to protect your partner. Continue up the ramp to a horn belay with fixed slings.

*When your partner arrives at the belay, have him/her continue to the ledge below the crux pitch and build an anchor. It’s a short pitch and keeps momentum going rather than swapping gear/leads.

Photo taken from mountainproject.com

P5- 5.10+ Climb the overhanging corner. It’s steep and sustained but has good holds. Look for the occasional stem rest and fixed wire. Exit the roof to the right and catch your breath, then fire up the 5.8 hands and straight into the 5.8 offwidth slot. Save a big cam for the slot. Belay on a great ledge off mid sized cams.

P6- 5.8 Climb the blocky crack system on the left. Some steep climbing leads to easier rambling up and left. Belay below the big flake off of .5 and .4 camalots.

P7- 5.7 Continue up to the flake and chimney behind it. Climb up and right to some funky flakes and a good ledge with a bolted belay.

P8- 5.9+ Traverse right off the belay into some flakey rock. Continue up and right into peg while passing 2 bolts and an old bolt missing a hanger (a little runout). There is still an exposed stud. Fire through on some sloping holds to a short corner and small ledge. Punch up the short but difficult layback into easier terrain. Belay at the good ledge above.

Photo taken from mountainproject.com

P9- 5.9 Traverse left from the belay on flakes into a right facing corner. Continue up the sustained crack passing an old fixed cam. Keep climbing on slightly easier ground until you get to a small but good belay stance. Belay here or continue to the terrace. Once at the terrace, you can unrope and walk the easy (3^rd class) exposed terrace or do some roped traversing pitches. Follow the path of least resistance and look for a blocky chimney exit to the rim. The last short section should be 4^th class and is easily soloed. High five your partner and be psyched you just did one of the most classic rock climbs in the nation!

An average time for a river to rim ascent by a competent team should be around the 8 or 9 hour mark without any major route finding errors. The Scenic is great spring preparation for those people looking to climb a summer route on the Diamond such as The Casual Route or Pervertical Sanctuary. While the Diamond routes aren’t as long they require speed and efficiency to beat the afternoon thunderstorms. It’s also the “entrance exam” to the other bigger routes in The Black such as the Southern Arete on the Painted Wall or the Flakes on the South Rim.

Oh yeah... I forgot to mention... Earl Wiggins free soloed the second ascent of the Scenic Cruise in 2 hours wearing Kronhaufers and no chalk bag!

I hope you can enjoy this route as much as I have.

Eric Whewell

Colorado Mountain School Senior Guide

800-836-4008 x3

Weekly Monday Gear Review: Marmot Drakon 35

2011-11-14T08:47:00.000-07:00

Here at the Colorado Mountain School our go-to outdoor apparel is Marmot. When I heard they were making a new pack, the Drakon 35, I was excited to try it out. I have used Marmot packs in the past and had great experiences with them.

I was about to head out to the Cascades for an Advanced Alpine Guides Course that was being taught by the AMGA. But before I headed out there, I had to give my new pack, the Marmot Drakon 35 litter, a test run.

That test run would be a guided two day ascent of Longs Peak (14,260’). Right away I keyed into the fact that the pack seemed to have a bit more room than most 35 litter packs I’ve used in the past. I was able to pack a Black Diamond 2 person tent and poles, an inflatable sleeping pad, a sleeping bag, stove/fuel, freeze dried food, the ten essentials, extra clothing, and all my climbing gear into my pack. I placed my helmet and climbing rope over the top of the pack and used the side straps to fasten the rope tightly to the sides.

On the hike up to the Boulder Field the pack carried really well. I had no sore spots or pains because of the pack. I could tell that the waist and shoulder straps are built in a way that makes carrying heavier loads easier and more comfortable. With the added benefit of the vertical zipper system, I was able to access food and water easily while on the trail.

The next day I was able use this same pack for the summit climb. By buckling the side straps across the front of the pack, the Drakon 35 compresses nicely and becomes low profile for climbing. Little pockets on the inside of the pack made it nice to store sunscreen and snacks.

After this trip I knew this would be the pack to take on my Alpine Course. Needless to say… I give this packs two thumbs up.

Thanks,

Joey Thomson

Colorado Mountain School Senior Guide

800-836-4008 x3

Weekly Friday Video Post: Rutschblock Test

2011-11-11T08:00:00.001-07:00

Colorado Mountain School guide, Russell Hunter, demos a Rutschblock Test on an AIARE Avalanche Level 1 course. No matter if you are a backcountry skier, snowboarder, snowshoe-er, or snowmobiler, this is a course you shouldn't miss. Join us this winter for your avalanche education.
We offer avalanche courses nearly every week starting in December and running into April. We have many options available:
1) Full days Friday, Saturday, and Sunday.
2) A holiday break course running full days December 27-29.
3) Tues/Thurs (6-9pm classroom work) + all day Saturday and Sunday (RMNP Field session).
Call us today to reserve your spot.

Colorado Mountain School
800-836-4008 x3

Weekly Wednesday Blog Post: Strengh Training for Backcountry Skiing

2011-11-09T08:00:00.003-07:00

We’re still digging out from Winter Storm #2 and storms #3 and #4 are already in the forecast! As the snow pack builds over the next month or so, this is the perfect time to also be building your backcountry skiing fitness base. A complete ski conditioning program should include elements of aerobic and anaerobic fitness, plyometric resistance, and strength training. The aerobic conditioning will get you up the skin track; the anaerobic conditioning will enable you to link turns for hundreds of vertical at a time; the plyometric resistance training will prepare your body for dynamic skiing movements in ever changing snow conditions; and the strength training will build overall power and will help to prevent injury.

CMS Guide Matt Lipscomb hits the weights to prepare for ski season.

One of the most efficient styles of strength training is Olympic weight lifting. The Olympic lifts are dynamic, they engage multiple large muscle groups, and the strength gains translate well to athletic sports (like backcountry skiing) without “bulking up.” Shown above is one of my favorite training lifts – the deadlift. It works all the major muscle groups in the lower body (hamstrings, quads, glutes) as well as the core and lower back muscles.

Now is the time to build your fitness foundation for a long and rewarding ski season! Once you are ready to get out skiing, I'd love to be your guide. Call the office, request me, and let's get some turns in together.

-Matt Lipscomb

CMS Guide

Please Note: The Boulder Rock Club offers ski conditioning classes free for all members. Tuesdays at 5:45pm and Wednesdays at 12pm.

Weekly Monday Gear Review: La Sportiva Trango Primes

2011-11-07T09:35:00.000-07:00

Lots of folks around here say that alpine climbing in Rocky Mountain NP is some of the best training available for the greater ranges of the world. Some actually say that the greater ranges are some of the best training for climbing in Rocky. We get wind; we get cold. But we do have some classic mixed climbs requiring long approaches, snow, ice, and rock climbing. Full winter days in the Park require footwear that allows you to move quickly and comfortably. And stay warm. And climb well.

I picked up a pair of La Sportiva Trango Primes last winter and I must say, they’re fitting the bill so far. I’m looking forward to some more testing this season, as the snow falls and the ice forms.

When one browses the Sportiva website, one sees no less than five different Trango boot models. The Prime fits in at one end of the spectrum: warmest. With the most insulation, thickest midsole, an aggressive Vibram tread, and an integrated gaiter, this boot was made for winter alpine adventure.

The fit is true to the Trango last, maybe a bit roomier than the lighter weight models. I have used all types of crampon bindings on this boot with success. They also work well with my Silveretta ski bindings for approaches.

Climbing-wise, I have no complaints. The stiff midsole is solid on steep ice. The flexible ankle allows for mobility on the rock and mixed terrain, as well as comfortable flat footing on the less-than-vertical. When I compare the rock climbing performance to my red Trangos, I’d say they’re not quite as nimble or precise. This is definitely a boot geared towards climbing with crampons on.

If you’ve already been wondering when Alexander’s and the Smear are going to form; or you’re planning and training for a trip to the Alps next spring and you need new footwear, give this one a shot. It’s yet another well-crafted Italian mountain boot from La Sportiva.

Mike Soucy

CMS Guide

msoucy@totalclimbing.com

800-836-4008

Weekly Friday Video: Blind and Naked

2011-11-04T08:00:00.003-06:00

Blind climber Erik Weihenmayer tackles his hardest route to date - Eldorado Canyon's The Naked Edge - to benefit the Access Fund. Support climbing advocacy and conservation: http://accessfund.org/join

If you have any interest in climbing The Naked Edge call us to set up your private outing. November can be a great time of the year to get on this amazing route.

Thanks,

Colorado Mountain School
800-836-4008 x3

Weekly Wednesday Trip Report: Unforgettable Routes

2011-11-02T10:01:00.002-06:00

As the summer time rolls out and the winter time rolls in I begin to reflect on the all the great climbs I did over this last climbing season. I climbed quite a few routes this spring, summer, and fall and there are a few that really stick out in my mind.

Climber on the first pitc of the East Ridge of the Maiden. Photo taken from mountainproject.com

The first route that sticks out in my mind is the East Ridge of the Maiden. My friend and I did this route this spring. Many formations in this area are closed due to falcon nesting. It may be because of this, but we were the only ones on the formation that weekend. The guide book says it is 5 pitches. We strung together pitches 1 and 2 as well as 3 and 4. We were climbing with a 70m rope, which made it nice. Pitch one is a beautiful crack and pitch three involves some wild face moves. After topping out two single rope rappels bring you back to the ground. The first rappel involves a free hanging rap down to the “crow’s nest”. The second rap is down the south face. A quick scramble back to the base brings you back to your packs and the trail to head out.

Climber starting the wild 3rd pitch of the East Ridge of the Maiden. Photo taken from mountainproject.com

The crazy free hanging rappel off the Maiden. Photo taken from mountainproject.com

Climber starting pitch two of Fat City. Photo taken from mountainproject.com

The second route that sticks out in my mind is Fat City (5.10c) at Lumpy Ridge. This route is on the Book formation. Although the hike up to the Book can be a bit of a hump, this route is well worth it. Plus when you add in the route Cheap Date, this is a route that shouldn’t be missed, and that is what we did. When I first moved to Colorado, this is the route that I took my first trad lead fall on. That fall happened on the first pitch and I couldn’t even get through the second pitch. This time, 5 years later, I made it through the first pitch without any problems. The second pitch is the crux. Thin fingers lead to a bit of a chimney, followed by and overhang. Really work the feet for the finger sections and you’ll do fine. For the chimney section make sure you rack your gear on the right side of your body. For the overhang I threw my right hand up with a thumbs down jam and tossed my hip over the lip and kind of scummed it on the wall. The third pitch has a bunch of great lie-backing. It is a fairly long pitch and will bring you to the cave. From there you can finish up on Cheap Date or do other various exit routes. Once you top out, hug the wall to your right and you’ll end up back at the base of the formation. This route has a little bit of everything, and because of that I recommend you put this route on your to-do list.

Pitch 4 of Rewritten. Photo taken from mountainproject.com

The third route that sticks out in my mind is Rewritten (5.7) in Eldorado Canyon. This route is situated high up on the Redgarden Wall. My climbing partner and I started the route with the first pitch of the Great Zot (5.8). By doing this, you get to climb a great crack through a little bulge. Really fun. After two more pitches of fairly easy climbing, you come to another amazing pitch. A traverse out left brings you to an airy and exposed hand crack. After this pitch you get another amazing pitch up a knife blade arête. From the top of the arête one more final pitch brings you to the top. Overall, these six pitches are amazing. A walk off brings you back to your packs.

There are many more routes that where a blast. For whatever reason these routes just stick out in my mind. I recommend everyone doing them. If you don’t feel comfortable leading them, the guides at the Colorado Mountain School can guide you up anyone of these routes.

Call us today if you have any questions.

Thanks,

E.J. Nogaski
Colorado Mountain School
800-836-4008 x3

Weekly Monday Gear Review: Black Diamond OZ Carabiner

2011-10-31T08:00:00.001-06:00

I’m a huge fan of the Oz carabiner by Black Diamond because of its light weight. Using a full rack of these carabiners saves my load a few pounds. I have had trouble with other lightweight carabiners in the past due to my hand size. The Oz carabiner is perfect for my large hands and gives me peace of mind while serving its function impeccably.

Yours truly,

Steve Johnson
Colorado Mountain School Senior Guide
AMGA Rock and Alpine Guide Certified

Tech Specs:
Weight : 28 g (1 oz)

Closed Gate Strength : 20 kN (4496 lbf)
Open Gate Strength : 8 kN (1798 lbf)
Minor Axis Strength : 7 kN (1574 lbf)
Gate Opening : 22 mm (0.86 in)

Weekly Friday Video: Big Wall Cribs

2011-10-28T08:00:00.000-06:00

Weekly Wednesday Trip Report: Cancer and Climbing - A Powerful Combination

2011-10-26T09:03:00.002-06:00

Photo by Photo Adventures with Ed

At the end of September I, and some of my fellow CMS guides, finished our second season of running climbing camps for a non-profit organization called First Descents (FD). They provide adventure programming for young adult cancer survivors, roughly ages 20-40. I know the name does not seem to fit with climbing, but the organization started out providing kayaking camps - and where climbers look for that coveted first ascent of a route, paddlers look for the first descent of a river.

FD camps are 6 days long, and like many climbing adventures, the first and last days are travel days. The real meat of each camp happens during the middle 4 days with 2 days of top roping and multipitch prep work to build everyone’s skill sets so they are ready for the graduation climb – a full-blown multipitch climb on the final day! There is one well-earned non-climbing day thrown in as well when campers get to sample some of the local sights in the program area like Estes Park, CO or Moab, UT.

FD campers (and sometimes the volunteer staff) arrive with a wide range of cancer experiences - from folks who have been out of treatment for many years, to campers who are recently diagnosed and still in the midst of treatment. Climbing experience runs the gamut as well, from total novices who have never been on a rope (indoors or outdoors), to the occasional camper who has done some trad or sport leading.

And while a typical guided climbing experience tends to focus on climbing or educational objectives, these take a backseat to FD’s main objective - creating a community for a group of cancer survivors who frequently have had to go through the challenges of cancer with a relatively small to non-existent support network. I am continually amazed how many times I hear campers say, “Until this week, I have never met another young adult cancer survivor.” After camp, however, they know 10-15 folks who they don’t have to explain cancer to, who understand first-hand the intricacies of cancer treatment…people who ‘get it’! Never mind the connection they make to the larger FD family which is growing all the time.

The community they build is a powerful tool – not only at camp where campers support and encourage each other on and off the rock, helping each other achieve more than they dreamed they could…but also, after camp. I love hearing the post-camp stories about campers who feel like their camp experience was the impetus they needed to realize that they have too long allowed cancer to run their lives, that they feel like they have gone home, taken their lives back and have started to realize some of their pre- and post-cancer dreams. Dreams like writing music, starting a non-profit, publishing a book, mending broken relationships, quitting a hated job and starting a dream job for much less pay, moving to Colorado, completing a triathlon or marathon, climbing on their own even though they are terrified of heights…the list goes on and is incredibly inspiring!

For a CMS climbing guide who (like my peers) is passionate about seeing people stretch their physical, mental, emotional and spiritual limits through climbing and the mountain environment… what is there not to love about being a part of the First Descents experience?! FD season can't come soon enough – I can’t wait!

By the way, if you are (or someone you know is) a young adult cancer survivor and you want information about attending FD camps, or if you are psyched to find out how to volunteer (no cancer required!) for camps, check First Descents out at… http://firstdescents.org/

For more photos check out Photo Adventures with Ed.

Take care,

Bob Chase
Colorado Mountain School
800-836-4008 x3

Weekly Monday Gear Review: Revo Redpoint and Guide Sunglasses

2011-10-24T08:00:00.002-06:00

Revo Guide

“These make me see better! Russ, you’ve got to try these.” Said my sister to her husband after trying on my Revo brand sunglasses. His take? “I almost don’t need my prescription lenses with these!” He enthused.

And in fact, I was so psyched on my new Revos that I now have 2 pair.

For me the main draw in a pair of sunglasses are the optics and the optics on the Revos are phenomenal. Crystal clear, no distortion and keeps my eyes feeling rested even after a long day (or week) in the harsh alpine light of the Rockies.

The lenses are polarized and block 100% of UVA, UVB and UVC light.

Revo Red Point

Of course, nobody can get behind sunglasses that don’t make you look your best and the Revo brand satisfies in this department too! I have both the Red Point model and the new Guide model and they both get plenty of compliments. And not only do the frames look good; they also fit my face comfortably and stay in place no matter the activity.

Rock climbing, ice climbing, skiing, or roaming the urban environment the Revos are with me, making my job easier.

Mark Hammond
Head Mountain Guide
Colorado Mountain School
800-836-4008

Weekly Friday Video: Crack Clinic - Offwidth

2011-10-21T08:00:00.003-06:00

First Descents Climb-A-Thon

2011-10-19T12:01:00.002-06:00

We would like to thank everyone for making the First Descents Climb-A-Thon a raging success. Last Tuesday ABC's Everyday Health show chose First Descents to feature in one of their episodes. First Descents is a Denver based non-profit that provides adventure therapy to young adults with cancer. Adventures include white water kayaking, rock climbing, and surfing. We hosted a Climb-a-thon for the episode to help them show the world about First Descents.

Big props to Team ABC for their participation during the Climb-a-thon. They raised a lot of money for First Descents as well as provide great footage of little kids crushing it for Everyday Health.

To learn more about First Descents and how to participate check out the link http://firstdescents.org/

Thanks!

Chris Wall

Weekly Wednesday Trip Report: W. Ridge of Eldorado

2011-10-19T08:00:00.001-06:00

Sunset in the N. Cascades, Washington

For most of us (in the Front Range anyway), when we hear the name "Eldorado," we immediately think of our beloved Eldorado Canyon with soaring brown, red, and neon-green walls. We think of how good the movement is on the warm Fountain sandstone and we think of the innumerable, quality routes inaudibly beckoning us like sirens seducing ill-fated sailors...or, as the case may be, desk-jockeys. We think of the incredible amount of climbing and, best yet, how short the approaches are.

CMS Guide Eric Whewell cruising up the W. Ridge & on his was to alpine certification

But in the great Northwest, there lies another Eldorado. Unlike it's Colorado cousin, Eldorado Peak pretty much shares none of those aforementioned attributes. The rock quality is poor and treacherously loose, relegating the few routes to low 5th-class ridge climbs; and the approach options to Eldorado's W. Ridge are all very long by Colorado standards. Though, I will say, the views are simply spectacular.

Surmounting one of many gendarmes

Views north to Early Morning Spire and Dorado Needle from the ridge

CMS guide Eric Whewell and I, training for an upcoming alpine exam, walked the long approach to the base of Eldorado's E. ridge. Here we set up our camp as the sun disappeared and the moon simultaneously arose. We left our camp early in the morning and essentially circumnavigated the Eldorado massif, dropping through a col between the Tepah Towers and Dorado Needle. This was done by headlamp, connecting various glaciers that required extensive roped travel to manage the considerable crevasse hazard. After yet a few more hours of approaching, we finally reached the 3000' W. Ridge.

Another Eldorado ridge in the foreground, Early Morning Spire getting late-afternoon sun in the background

A giant gendarme mid-way up the W. Ridge; cloud-bank below rolling in from the ocean

The climbing started out easy enough and we simul-soloed a third of the ridge before deeming the rock quality and difficulty just enough to warrant the rope. We led in blocks, either outright pitches or simul-climbing, swapping leads whenever our small rack ran out. I think most people take rock shoes up this route though the moderate grade of 5.7 felt comfortable in our La Sportiva Trango S Evo boots. (We found a very munched Muira shoe near the top of the second third of the ridge.) The difficulties were mostly found in simply managing the loose rock. The hardest climbing came on a poorly protected traverse with a piton at the start but, at least, this section was short.

Taking a quick break and soaking up the views, mid-way up the route

Eric climbing through one of the ridge's steeper sections

Higher on the route, the ridge blended into a headwall comprised of infinite ledge systems. The information we had said we only had another 500' or so to go but it seemed endless. Each "summit" turned out to be only another bump leading to more ledges. Finally, seven hours after leaving camp, we reached the summit.

Unroped scrambling in the upper third of the W. Ridge

Navigating exposed ledges near the top of the peak

A short but elegant snow-arete forms the upper part of Eldorado's E. Ridge but the going was much easier than anything we'd been on yet. We cruised down the E. Ridge, sometimes on rock, mostly on glacier and, 15 minutes later, were back at our camp. Of course, this still left us with a 4.5 hour "approach" to get back to our car making us appreciate even more the ease of alpine climbing in RMNP let alone rock climbing in Eldo.

Andrew Councell
CMS guide

Descending Eldorado's E. Ridge snow-arete back towards camp

View to the North, can just make out Shuksan (center) and Baker (left) in the far distance

Weekly Monday Gear Review: Black Diamond 40L Speed Pack

2011-10-17T08:00:00.006-06:00

Since the line of Black Diamond Speed Packs were introduced, I have been a fan. I have 2 generations of the 30L model and they have all performed great. My older Speed packs have served me well, from guided ascents of the Diamond on Longs Peak to multi day traverses in Washington’s North Cascades. I have been fortunate enough to use the new version of the Speed Pack, but this season, in the 40L size. I only hoped the new model wouldn’t disappoint. Needless to say, it didn’t.

The Speed 40L sports some new features this year including “SwingArm” shoulder straps to limit abuse on my shoulders during long mountain days. Also new is Black Diamond’s “reACTIV” Hipbelt system allowing the pack to move with your body, not against. These new features have made the pack much more comfortable than the older versions, especially when worn all day.

Some things haven’t changed that make the Speed Pack my favorite. The new design still features a removable hipbelt and top lid to strip the pack’s size when climbing. It comes with dual ice axe loops and external crampon attachment option as well as hydration system compatible. Best of all, the pack is still super light and maintains its stripped down minimalist build. I look forward to using the Speed 40L for most guiding objectives this year.

Enjoy,

Eric Whewell

CMS Guide

800-836-4008

Weekly Friday Video: Alex Honnold Free Soloing

2011-10-14T08:00:00.002-06:00

The Colorado Mountain School doesn't encourage anyone to free solo.

Weekly Wednesday Trip Report: Red Rock Canyon

2011-10-12T06:00:00.002-06:00

With everyone in the office heading out on extended climbing trips and all the guides in the field on AMGA courses and exams, I was feeling a little left out. Luckily, I was able to sneek away for a four day weekend last week. Wednesday was actually my Friday, and it was the best Friday ever! Straight from work Wednesday afternoon, I headed to the Table Mesa Park and Ride, caught the bus to the airport and waited patiently to board the plane. Off to Vegas!

I was a little worried about the weather... Last time I was there it was freezing cold and I couldn't feel my hands, or my feet, while climbing. I guess that's what I get for climbing in the shade in late November. This time, the forecast was for 100 degrees and sunny. That's more like it! Hiking in was a bit warm, but the temperatures in the shade were PERFECT!! (Yes, I learned my lesson the hard way. I will now always find routes that are in the shade/sun to match the respective season. I even learned to check what month the route was put up. First ascentionists aren't that into suffering!)

Leading up the first pitch of Wholesome Fullback.

My favorite climb of this trip was Wholesome Fullback to Our Father. I was lucky to lead the money pitch of Wholesome Fullback, which starts as thin fingers to perfect hands. Pure sweetness! The traverse under the roof was easier than I thought it would be and easy to protect. I am finally applying the knowledge on how to protect traverses and avoid rope drag- place a piece and extend the runner. This was key, as the pitch was a rope stretcher!

The crux of the climb came at the end of the traverse, transitioning back into the finger crack with an awkward move. Keeping in mind rope drag, I extended my last piece and tried to keep climbing. I struggle mentally with climbing above my gear on routes that challenge me (ok, even on easy routes, but I get over that a little faster). While climbing through this section, I could not stop thinking that my feet were above my last piece, and the runner was extended to make for an even longer fall. Eeek! Did I mention I hate falling?

Chad, thoroughly enjoying the first pitch.

I was able to plug a piece in and go, returning to sweet hand crack you can see from the hike in. Running out of gear and nearing the end of the rope, I was able to build a belay at a decent stance and belay my partner up. Chad followed me up, and took the lead to the top. Wholesome Fullback is definitely a route that I would love to come back to and climb again!

Perfect hands to start the third pitch of Our Father.

The decent of this route is two rappels with one rope. The first bolted rap station is set up perfectly to climb the thrid pitch of Our Father. We decided to continue with the goodness of climbing cracks in Black Velvet Canyon, and took turns lowering each other on Our Father. So good! Perfect hands to a steep layback to a defined crux. So good! (Did I mention that already??).

Chad, flying through the crux of Our Father without blinking.

We rapped the route and I sure hope the little tree for the second rap station doesn't die any time soon. There's a bomber nut backing it up, and I know I don't generate much force while rappelling... Being the last day of my climbing trip, it was kind of sad returing to terra firma. After staying up late exploring the infamous "Strip" of Vegas, Monday morning I flew out on a red-eye flight. Driving straight to work after the bus dropped me off at the Park and Ride, I had the best-worse case of the Mondays ever!

Rapell anchor on Our Father.

This four day weekend was a super quick trip, but one of the best I’ve had in Red Rock Canyon! Being the mecca of moderate multi-pitch climbs, anyone and everyone can climb there. If you need a guide, call me at the office and I'll hook you up! We’re running an October Special, October 22-31, 2011. With custom guiding and group courses, there’s something for everyone!

Katy Pfannenstein
Colorado Mountain School
http://www.totalclimbing.com/
1-800-836-4008 x3
katy@totalclimbing.com

La Sportiva Mythos, My Go-To Shoe...

2011-10-10T06:00:00.017-06:00

My feet are very precious to me, especially when I was working in the field as a backpacking and climbing instructor. They were the means to my paycheck. If I couldn't walk or climb, I wouldn't get paid.

I believe I have relatively normal feet... with the exception that when I paint my toenails, people tell me I have cute feet. With thinking I had normal feet, I thought any old pair of rock climbing shoes would do. Well, I was wrong. With high arches and a fussy Achilles tendon that doesn't like to get pushed on, I knew I needed to find a special pair of shoes. That pair of shoes is the La Sportiva Mythos. When I wear my Mythos, they make me feel like a superhero.

Feeling like a superhero when I wear my Mythos. Easter Island, Indian Creek

As soon as I put them on, I knew they were right for me. Kind of like Cinderella and her glass slippers. My feet slipped right in and sighed, "Ah!" The full lace up design is very beneficial for me; with proper adjustment, the sole of the shoe fits the curve of my high arches perfectly. The laces wrap around back and have proven to adjust to my Achilles well. The low cut design on the back of the shoe is perfect. Not too high, not too tight. Just right.

Mythos are great for bouldering in Moab, Utah.

My Mythos are my go-to shoe because of the way they fit my feet and because they are the most comfortable all day shoe, EVER. Most folks relate comfortable shoes to not edging very well, not climbing cracks well, not doing anything well. In my opinion, they edge well, climb cracks well, and even wear a light liner sock well on the chilly days. When hanging out at a belay station and my climbing partners take their stinky shoes off, I have to smirk. A) My feet don't stink as bad as theirs, and B) My feet don't hurt! I can enjoy my eating chocolate with my shoes on while they are making noises of relief once they get their shoes off.

Wearing liner socks on a chilly day while climbing Riddler's Delight in Zion.

From the granite of Yosemite, the sandstone of Desert Towers, the Basalt of Devil's Tower, to the limestone of El Potrero Chico, Mexico, Mythos handle all rock types well. I highly recommend the Mythos to anyone and everyone!

Wearing Mythos all the way to the top of Devil's Tower, WY.

Check out La Sportiva's website to learn more about their climbing shoes!

Katy Pfannenstein
Colorado Mountain School
1-800-836-4008 ext 3
katy@totalclimbing.com

Weekly Friday Video: How to uncoil a new rope

2011-10-07T08:00:00.005-06:00

Weekly Wednesday Trip Report: "By Gully" 5.9+

2011-10-05T08:00:00.001-06:00

Located approximately 12 miles up Boulder Canyon, Castle Rock is a wonderful place to climb granite. There are a wide range of routes available. Anything from single-pitch to multi-pitch, 5.4 to 5.14. Since I was heading to Yosemite soon, training at Castle Rock was the perfect choice.

Photo taken from mountainproject.com

My climbing partner and I climbed a few single pitch routes that morning before I decided to hop on "By Gully". This route is rated 5.9+ and is the wide crack just left of the large roof. It is an offwidth so be prepared.

Route Beta:
Boulder up to a bolt and clip it. I used a standard quickdraw and didn't feel any rope drag because of it. Make a funky move to a hand crack and place a #1 Camalot. You could probably place a #2 Camalot, but my I didn't want to take that place because I used it as a hand jam to get into the wide section. From there I went right side in. Last year I tried this route left side in and it didn't work. Right side in worked great.

Photo taken from mountainproject.com

With my right side in, my right arm was a chicken wing and left hand palming down on the rock. I cammed my right foot in the crack and wiggled my way up a few feet. I was then able to place a #2 Camalot and then quickly after that a #4 Camalot.

From there I placed a #5 Camalot and walked it for a little ways. After that I placed a #6 and walked it for most of the top section. The section where I placed a #5 and #6 is mosly heel/toe and much more mellow than the first offwidth section.

Once you get near the top you can do one of two things. You can traverse over (climbers left) to the sling anchor on "Coffin Crack" or build a seperate anchor above.

If you "enjoy" offwidth climbing, I highly recommend "By Gully". This route will make you work for it, but when you get to the top, it is well worth the struggle.

Note: Wear long sleeves and knee pads. It takes the pain down a bit.

Colorado Mountain School Guides can guide this route if you are interested. If you have any questions, give us a call.

Thanks,

E.J. Nogaski
Colorado Mountain School
800-836-4008

Weekly Monday Gear Review: Black Diamond Key Chain Bottle Opener

2011-10-03T08:00:00.001-06:00

Picture this: I’m sitting down trying to open a bottle of brew with no luck at all. When all of a sudden an angel sent from Heaven above comes out from the fog. That angel was a Black Diamond rep. He hands me this fine piece of hand crafted steel and says, “Here you go man. I hope you get some use out of it.” In my hand is the Black Diamond key-chain/bottle opener. Clearly a gift from God.

Flash forward a couple years. I still have the bottle opener and it has seen its fair share of bottle tops. The Black Diamond key-chain/bottle opener is one of the greatest tools that I own. Not only is it a great key-chain but, get this, it is also a great bottle opener. How many of you can say you’ve got something that does that. This little device doesn’t take up much room in your pocket and it doesn’t hang too low when the keys are in the ignition. But don’t think less of it because of its small size, it packs quite a punch. I have yet to find a bottle it can’t open.

Well….when I mean a bottle, I mean a beer bottle or something similar. This thing doesn’t open water bottles. That’s impossible.

Anyways, this versatile little tool is just half of the Black Diamond nut tool. Some of you reading this might say, “Hey I already have a BD nut tool. Can’t I just use that then?” We’ll sure you can. But let me answer your question with a question. How are you going to fit it in your pocket? How are you going to press the gas pedal when it is jabbing you in the leg?

Don’t be a fool. Avoid bulky pockets and bruised legs. Purchase the compact Black Diamond key-chain/bottle opener. I give it 5 stars and I know you will too.

PS: I’m not positive that it’s hand crafted or made out of steel. But who really cares.

To find out how you can get your hands on this and other great Black Diamond products, please visit the Black Diamond homepage.

E.J. Nogaski
Colorado Mountain School
enogaski@totalclimbing.com
800-836-4008 x3

Red Rocks! Vegas, Baby!

2011-09-27T11:14:00.002-06:00

Rocktober is just around the corner! Where are you going to get your send on? Red Rocks! Vegas, baby! Could you think of a better fall destination for a brief climbing trip?! As things start to get frosty on long routes at elevation in Colorado, the desert is just starting to get into prime time!

I have returned to Red Rocks again and again... to work... to play... to train... to CLIMB! Situated right outside of Las Vegas, Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area is a world class destination. It is one of my favorite spots due to the immense volume and variety of climbing- excellent sport or trad climbing, world class lengthy multi-pitches, sun or shade, crack or face. There are plenty of hard routes in Red Rocks, but it is particularly noted for having exceptional long moderate outings, with enjoyably sustained climbing of just the difficulty to meet any climber at the level they are at.

Want a mellow, but enjoyably steep outing? Bing, Cat in the Hat, with six pitches of 5.6 going up the stunning formation that is Mescalito. Want to climb a route that takes all the juice you've got and all the light of the day? Boom, Epinephrine, considered by many to to be the best 5.9 in the country, sucking you in with a monstrous 13 pitches. Don't be scared off by rumors of endless chimneying- there are plenty of splitter cracks and endless corner systems in there too. There are also many high quality cragging spots to work on your climbing or leading techniques and to rest your legs for the next big day out.

One of the all time classics is the six pitch 5.8, Frogland, situated at the mouth of the astounding Black Velvet Canyon. This climb has it all, pitch after pitch, with high end crack climbing, face climbing and corner climbing with a very cool tunnel through up high. Oh, sooo good! Below are some of the photos from a vertical adventure I had on it with two happy clients.

Colorado Mountain School has permits from October 22-31. There are limited spots available, so please call the office now if you want secure a spot. The friendly staff working in the office are happy to answer your questions and work with you to cater to your needs. You can also learn more online here.

See you out there!

Rainbow Weinstock
Colorado Mountain School Guide

Coming Soon!!!

2011-09-20T16:52:00.000-06:00

Starting in October we will be posting weekly videos. Some will be tips from our guides... Others will be funny things we find on the web.

Stay tuned!

Red Rock Canyon Under Threat of Development

2011-08-09T11:39:00.000-06:00

Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, just outside of Las Vegas, Nevada, is under threat of a massive development plan. Jim Rhodes, of Gypsum Resources Development Company, has applied to turn the Blue Diamond Hill into 7,000 homes, university/research facilities, strip malls, and business centers. This land is currently zoned as rural, where land owners can only build one house per two acres. Because GRDC has powerful legal backings and a massive budget, we need your support! Don't let Jim build a small village that can be seen from all large formations in Red Rock!

The following photo shows the location of the proposed development area, and how close it is to world class climbing.

The next photo shows how close the proposed development area (green) is to the conservation area (red).

What can you do to help?

1. Educate yourself! The following links provide more information on the issue:

Save Red Rock Canyon

Mountain Project Thread

Access Fund Action Center

Las Vegas Review-Journal Article

2. Make your voice heard! Sign the petition. Write to Government Representatives. With more voices heard, the greater strength each one will have.

3. Show your support! Attend the County Commission meeting at 9 AM on August 17, 2011. The meeting will be located at the Clark County Government Building, 500 South Grand Central Parkway, Las Vegas, NV 89155.

4. Spread the word! Tell your friends, family, even your enemies (they climb there too!). Email, facebook, blog, twitter, text, or just talk to people. Help spread the word and stop the massive development from happening!

-Colorado Mountain School

La Sportiva's Trango S Evo boots on Hallet's "Great Dihedral," 5.7

2011-08-04T15:47:00.000-06:00

Team assault on Hallet's Great Dihedral

Recently I had the pleasure of working with three guys (Rich, Evan, & Will) from Oklahoma who were looking to climb a rock-alpine route in Rocky Mountain National Park. We spent a half-day at a local crag in Estes going over multi-pitch systems before setting out early the following day to climb the "Great Dihedral" into the "Standard Route." Combining these routes on Hallet's N. Face offers roughly 1000' of 5.6-5.7 climbing.

Good times in the sun, partway up Hallet's N. Face

I had a couple of challenges: I'd never been on these routes (or this part of the wall) before and I was onsight-guiding three guests with three ropes (read: clusterville) on terrain where speed means safety. The ability to move quickly in steep, alpine terrain decreases the odds of getting caught out in a lightning storm high on the peak or in technical terrain. Fortunately, I knew that climbing these routes in my La Sportiva Trango S Evo boots wouldn't add to the day's challenges.

Trango Evos crushing!

The Trango Evos are one of the few boots that can do just about everything (with the exception of steep ice climbing). Being light and nimble, they gave me great dexterity on the approach through soft/rotten snow, slippery logs, muddy trails, talus/boulder hopping, loose gravel and the final 300' of steep snow we needed to climb to access the start of our route. They aren't as beefy as some of their Trango cousins but, even after 4 years of heavy use, they provided just enough weight for me to kick good steps for my three guests who had little snow-climbing experience. The beginning of the route was a stream and full of mossy, lichen-covered rock elsewhere. Even here, the Trango Evos performed well where a standard climbing shoe would have difficulty getting good traction (and the Gore-tex kept my feet dry too).

Cruising up the final pitches of the "Standard Route"

For the most part, the climbing was fairly sustained 5.7 (and maybe a bit harder in one spot) in a long dihedral...go figure. Even on small, sloping holds the Trango Evo's chiseled toe gave me the confidence to climb quickly. We climbed four pitches to the top of the "GD" route, gaining a huge terrace around mid-height on the wall. With the hardest climbing behind us, we relaxed on the large terrace, soaking up the views on the Dragontail spires and the still-melting Emerald and Dream Lakes now far below us. Cumulus clouds were just appearing but I felt we had the time, so we opted to continue to the top rather than traversing the terrace to begin our descent.

Will topping out another great climb in the Park

We did another three pitches on the "Standard Route," deviating here and there to avoid wet spots and climbing that looked too easy. Blockier, easier climbing was still super fun and well worth the effort. In a corner near the top, a wide crack was actually easier for me to climb because of the Trango Evo's bulkier profile. By the time we got to the top, the clouds were building and it was time to move on. A short walk took us to the rappels and soon we were scrambling down the super-loose descent gully. Once again, the Trango Evos performed well, allowing me to down-climb quickly and with confidence on the sections where I'd belayed my guests, offering the needed ankle support in loose talus. Soon we were back at the packs but still had another 400' of steep, grass-and-snow-covered terrain to cover before we could put the ropes away.

Rappelling into our descent gully

With thunder rumbling in the uncomfortably-close distance, we needed to move quickly off the steep snow and into terrain where we could just hike fast. Rather than dilly-dally with belayed down-climbing and short-roping that might offer a faster descent in other circumstances, I tied two ropes together and lowered Rich, Evan and Will down the snow and onto the talus below. I threw the ropes, down-climbed and then glissaded, never having to think twice about my footwear in the steep snow. Just as I reached the group and got my rain jacket on, the clouds opened up and lightning split the sky. Laughing, we ran into the safety of the woods; we were a little wet but pleased with our timing overall, given the relatively poor forecast of the day.

The rewarding parts of the day were nabbing a quick, efficient ascent of a new (for me) route, keeping it safe and fun, enjoying a beautiful day, getting the "full alpine" experience and sharing it with a few guys who wouldn't have had those experiences otherwise. A bonus for me was being able to do the entire day from approach, to climb, to descent without having to change footwear even once. La Sportiva's Trango S Evo boots proved to be the perfect choice that day on Hallet (about a week later, I guided the Ellingwood Arete (5.7) on Crestone Needle into the traverse to Crestone Peak, also in the Trango Evos). I spend a lot of time in the mountains on my feet in a variety of terrain and the Trango Evos are the boots that just about do it all for me!

Andrew Councell

CMS Guide

Wet but psyched, three happy climbers stand below the climb

RMNP Conditions Report - July 28, 2011

2011-07-27T21:36:00.002-06:00

Climbing high in Longs' Notch Couloir in July

"It doesn't interest me what you do for a living. I want to know what you ache for, and if you dare to dream of meeting your heart's longing. It doesn't interest me how old you are. I want to know if you will risk looking like a fool for love, for your dream, for the adventure of being alive."

-- Oriah Mountain Dreamer

Coming down the trail from another beautiful day in the RMNP mountains yesterday, my guest-for-the-day and I were talking about climbing and how the overall focus has shifted over the years. It used to be that climbing was about other things like nationalism or first ascents or simply for the sake of exploration. It didn't seem to matter (as much) what the outcome, it was done in the name of adventure. These days, on the other hand, so much focus seems to be around the numbers; it's V-this or 5.that or reaching some arbitrary altitude that matters to no one in the world except climbers. It's easy to obsess about numbers, like the fifty-something 14ers in Colorado for example. Rather than climbing a mountain because it's inspiring or not climbing a mountain because it's ugly or boring doesn't matter when all one cares about are the numbers. You might forgo a trip up an amazing-looking 13er because it isn't "tall enough" and instead choose to busy yourself with some slag-heap that barely tips out at 14,000'. For many, it's just so that they can say, "I climbed all the 14ers," or "I climbed all the 8000m peaks," or some other completely arbitrary, number-based claim.

Columbine in full bloom in the RMNP alpine

We as climbers love numbers. Hey, I'm guilty too. I'm always trying to climb the next number-grade. I find myself eschewing some beautiful-looking line because it's not hard enough, for example, and that's silly. Seems that we should be climbing after the bigger picture, in the name of exploration or just plain fun. That's what's awesome about climbing in the Park. There are so many unclimbed walls and routes, so much that remains undone, so much potential for adventure. So, as much to myself as any other climber, I say let's leave the numbers behind and aspire only to explore, to have an adventure and to have fun!

Notchtop on another clear, sunny day

No adventure would be complete without a bit of a weather-epic. As the summer progresses, we've settled into our typical pattern of blue mornings, clouding noons, and the afternoon t-storms only to reset overnight. The beauty of climbing in the Colorado high-country is the relative predictability of the weather. I know the saying, "If you don't like the weather, just wait 5 minutes," and that can be true. But if you're savvy enough and keep an eye on the sky, you can usually avoid the worst of weather. Checking the forecast doesn't hurt either. The super-vicious storms we were experiencing earlier in the month seem to have given way to their gentler kin. It sprinkles and rumbles but, lately at least, we've had it pretty good.

Longs' N. Face on July 28, 2011

The snow coverage this year continues to amaze us guides at the School, with snow climbs staying around much longer than usual. CMS guides Rainbow Weinstock and Russell Hunter were just out in the Dragontail Couloir on Flattop with Outside Magazine Television a couple days ago. Dragontail in late-July? Wow. But the climbing was reportedly top-notch: "With overcast skies maintaining quality firm snow for the whole route, we were wearing crampons until close to the top when it was all rock." Despite the good quality of the snow-climbing, it sounds like even the Dragontail area is on its last legs. "There are several rock steps in the upper, left-hand split that are interesting and reasonable. One of the cruxes...is dealing with large, funky moats before these steps, which would likely be a big obstacle in a couple of weeks. The other crux is the high volume of loose rock...in the final dry gully...handful of 4th-class steps in rubble." So maybe another week or two there. But that's south-facing, bearing the full force of the sun every day.

Climbing high on Zowie's S. Face route

Other aspects like the Ptarmigan Fingers and Lambslide are also still in great shape. We haven't had many freezing nights in the high country but there are still occasional freezes to keep things firm. Some guides are reporting good foot-penetration with just approach shoes on; still, others report icy steps, firm snow and good cramponing. One report reads: "Ptamigan Glacier and the Fingers are still in great condition for snow routes - no evidence of icing in any of them yet and all the cornices seem to be gone or melted back enough to not be an issue. The left finger (Brad's Gully) still has snow all the way down onto the upper tarn." There was a rescue on Lambslide recently where a climber slipped on firm/icy snow; fortunately, he was able to arrest his fall but injured himself in the process.

Ptarmigan Fingers still with plenty of coverage

CMS Guides Eric Whewell and Mike Soucy have each spent a couple days on Longs Peak this past week and sent in a good report. Mike sent in this report for the North Face (Cables Route): "The crux is running water but the rest of the route is in good shape with mostly-avoidable snow. What snow remains has huge bucket steps in it." They didn't use crampons on their climb but did have axes. For his day going up Lambslide/Broadway-to-Notch Couloir: "Worth noting is the large snowfield traverse on the trail underneath [Mt. Lady Washington], still there and was frozen yesterday [morning]. The steps through it are not great and the fall would hurt. Keep that in mind and gear up appropriately [beforehand]. Lambslide is in perfect condition now, styrofoam at 5:30. Broadway is dry and cruiser. The Notch was also in great shape, mostly snow [with] a couple of spots of alpine ice. [The climbing was] all rock at the dogleg with a moderate passage...The south ridge is dry rock. Keiner's is snow free." He went on to say that he saw a number of parties on the Diamond climbing the Casual Route, Pervertical, D7, and Yellow Wall. Apparently he talked to someone on the Casual Route and there are still a few wet spots but reportedly mostly dry. Eric was talking with climbing ranger and friend/fellow guide Josh Gross and he said that Kieners was still wet in spots and that the Casual was totally dry. Josh Wharton just freed the Dunn-Westbay at 5.13b; that's a proud send. It's Diamond season!

Saber, the Gash & Sharkstooth on a rare, cloudy morning

CMS Senior Guide Bob Chase also sent in a couple of good reports from some days elsewhere in the Park. He was on the "Love Route" on Hallet a couple days ago and had this to say: "There's still some snow to deal with to reach the base of "Love," "Better Than Love," and the ["Culp-Bossier"]. I pitched both short sections of snow, but it was all [doable] in approach shoes (for me and my clients). The moat at the base of the route was perfect to hang out in and put on climbing shoes before starting the climb. The route was totally dry except for a couple of minor drips here and there on the 5.7 pitch - they were easy to avoid. The crux was bone dry. Both rap anchors (bolts/chains at the top and the intermittent anchor) are in great shape. The descent is dry except for a 20 foot section of snow at the very bottom (and that won't last long)."

Lots of unclimbed rock on the Fire Tower and other formations on Otis' S. Face

Bob sent in another report from Notchtop, I think 4 days ago? He says: "The approach is dry up to Lake Helene (except for snow at the [Banana Bowls], below the east flank of Flattop and a few places where melt-water runs down the middle of the trail). There's low angle snow above Helene for 100+ vertical feet before you pick up the normal climber's trail through the krummholtz. Kicking steps with my approach shoes was very reasonable, but extra care might be needed for [climbers] who are inexperienced on snow if we had a freezing night. The rest of the approach is dry, as is the route and the entire descent gully.

"I totally replaced the junk show at the top rap anchor - it's now two separate pieces of climbing rope and two rapid links. The 3-pin anchor between the top anchor and the first bolt anchor...still seems really good and I did some minor work on the rigging - it's now various slingage/cordage and two rapid links. Each of the bolt anchors are a combination of one totally tight bolt/hanger and one loose hanger (but none spin more than an eighth of a turn)." Awesome, thanks Bob!

Sharkstooth looking high and dry

Alpine rock is dry and crisp...a bit looser, perhaps, with a wetter Spring behind us but overall a great way to spend the day climbing and escape the heat of the valleys. I've spent a couple days around Andrew's Creek this week. The Sharkstooth itself appears dry but the Gash is still quite filled in with snow as is the approach. The S. Face of Otis sports lots of great, sunny climbing; we did a quick ascent of Zowie, which was a lot of fun.

Luke T. on the final pitch of Zowie's S. Face

I rec'd a report from skiers recently as well. The report was from a trip in the Indian Peaks but the snowpack and terrain are similar enough to be relevant. Jason Matthews sent in this report: "[I] can confirm there is still a lot of snow if you are willing to hoof it. [We] skied east aspect of Jasper on Friday...seemed like an 8 ft base; skied very well, nice corn on top of a solid base. [We] skied Northstar on North Arapahoe on Saturday, [which was] a little softer, perfect spring skiing. Snow was much less dense immediately adjacent rock faces but firmed within a foot. [I] saw only a single sluff off a rock face the entire weekend. Neva looked great in the distance; a couple of skiers threw down some nice turns. If you have any diehard clients, you should let them know there is still some great skiing to be had."

Tons of unclimbed rock on Otis' S. Face

So there you have it, something for everyone these days. Some alpine ice, some great scrambling, some dry alpine rock, and even still some snow-climbing and skiing. For climbers, mountaineers and skiers, RMNP is a great venue this time of year. Conditions continue to change rather quickly and, even with a dozen guides in the field every day, it's difficult to stay updated on it all. So if you see something you think we should know about, or if you just have questions, please feel free to e-mail me at acouncell@totalclimbing.com. I'm always psyched to hear from readers and happy to help out where I can! Do yourself a favor, get out climbing in the Park now 'cause this is about as good as it gets. While you're at it, forget about the numbers for a while and just let yourself return to the essence of climbing, where it's all about fun, exploration and adventure.

Andrew Councell is a full-time CMS Guide and year-round Estes Park resident

RMNP Conditions Report - July 15, 2011

2011-07-15T21:27:00.000-06:00

Climbing high on Spearhead's N. Ridge

A people who climb the ridges and sleep under the stars in high mountain meadows, who enter the forest and scale peaks, who explore glaciers and walk ridges buried deep in snow--these people will give their country some of the indomitable spirit of the mountains.

-- U.S. Supreme Court justice William O. Douglas

Looking into the Dragontail area, lots of snow above Emerald Lake

With warmer temps upon us, the weather seems to have fallen into a somewhat typical pattern of afternoon thunderstorms. But is it just me or are these storms somehow worse than usual? There have been more than a few vicious storms bringing pounding rain and lightning here in the Park but I keep hearing about how bad they've been along the Front Range. Aside from a few windy days here in Estes, the winds seem to be confined to the alpine where, even still, they're not giving up the fight. Still, one can't complain too loudly with blue skies each morning and warm temps to beckon you into the mountains. And then there's the explosion of greenery in the valleys and on hillsides, not to mention the long wildflower season we're enjoying. This is one of the best times of year to be in the mountains!

Enjoying fun in the sun on Hallet's "Great Dihedral"

It's summer and CMS guides are leading trips all over the Front Range. With so many of us in the field each day, we're able to really stay on top of the ever-changing conditions of the mountains in which we work. So here's a bit of what we're seeing out there:

Sunrise on McHenry's over ice bergs in Black Lake

Snow continues to recede and give way to eager climbers looking to exchange the hot Boulder-based cragging for high-altitude climbing. In the last two weeks, I've heard of nearly every formation in the Park being climbed despite the snow clinging to most of the approaches/descents. The Diamond on Longs, for example, has seen a number of ascents but with parties reporting some wet spots generated from the still-melting snow patches above. Snow climbing is still great, however, with plenty of coverage around the Park. The Ptarmigan Fingers are still holding lots of snow but apparently still have cornices hanging on as well. Notchtop Couloir is reportedly still in top to bottom.

Elk grazing below McHenry's NE Face

Stone Man Pass on McHenry's is fully snow and the peak's E. Face also sports some big cornices. The Trough on Longs is melted out about a quarter up from the bottom but retains snow all the way up to the Narrows. Amazingly, there are still a few good zones off of Trail Ridge Road for easy-access skiing/climbing if you're not quite ready to hang up the winter gear just yet. The N. Face of Sundance Mountain, for example, still offers a few options. I saw lots of snow on Ypsilon today and the N. Face of Longs has a large section of snow on the middle of the face, above the old Cables Route. It sounds like Dreamweaver on Mt. Meeker is melted out.

Amazing climbing above the Barb on the Spearhead

Alpine rock season is in full swing by this point but don't let the hot temps and dry rock fool you. Boots are still the footwear of choice for approaching/descending many of the more popular formations. On a recent trip into Glacier Gorge, we found predominately snow-travel conditions about three-quarters of a mile before Black Lake. Most of the trail from that point is under snow and could be rather difficult to follow if you don't know the way (or even if you do). Ice bergs are still floating around in Black Lake. The bivy sites below the Spearhead are relatively dry with lots of running water around making for ideal camping. On our trip up the N. Ridge, we didn't need crampons but boots were a great asset. Approach shoes would have been too light and could've made the final approach to the base of the rock a little more exciting than we wanted. We did take ice axes, though, and used them on the glissade back into the flats. Less experienced folks might find an axe helpful when traversing snow-covered portions of the trail. A slip-n-slide into the creek or a moat could ruin the day (or week).

Topping out another great route on Hallet; Emerald Lake far below

All the routes on the Spearhead appear to be mostly dry; we saw a number of parties charging up The Barb. We encountered a bit of wetness on the first three pitches of the N. Ridge but otherwise climbed dry rock (until it started raining at 8am). We did the east ledges descent from the summit and found the talus to be more loose than usual. There was also a massive rock fall off the northern ridge/buttress of Chiefshead, with Eurovan-sized boulders littering the east side of the snow apron between Chiefshead and Spearhead. Combined with other rock fall or climber generated falling rock these last weeks, I'm seeing a pattern of a bit more looseness than many of us are used to.

The rappel descent off Hallet

I also guided a trio of climbers up Hallet's amazing north face on the Great Dihedral. We found some wetness here and there but, otherwise, the only snow we found was just getting to the base of the route, about 300' of it. If doing the rappel descent, maybe take along a bit of sling/cord to leave behind for the second rappel station. It was looking a little lean. We had two ropes so just rapped past it; I'd like to have added to the anchor but billowing clouds from the west suggested a bit of haste. As it was, we got pretty wet anyway on the hike out from Emerald Lake...the full alpine experience! Speaking of which, the raps off Notchtop could probably also use a little love, at least the uppermost station.

Big rockfall off the E. side of Chiefshead's N. Face

Another look at the rockfall zone

As far as Longs Peak goes, I saw some of the Keyhole Route from Glacier Gorge the other day and it looked plenty snowy to me. The Ledges started out dry but then appeared to be snow-covered for the second half and into the Trough. I couldn't see the Narrows or Homestretch. But CMS Guide Russell Hunter was guiding up there recently and said that most of the snow was avoidable. Now, when we're guiding the Keyhole we have ropes, harnesses, and helmets as well as other climbing equipment that allows us to comfortably and safely deviate from the standard route. The marked route may or may not be entirely snow free but it does sound like it's possible to make an ascent without spending too much time on snow. Where Russell did have to cross snow as at the top of the Trough, getting into the Narrows. Clark's Arrow is dry. The Loft continues to melt out, with the cliffs near the top becoming more exposed every day. The Bypass is probably your best bet at this point for both ascent/descent. And, finally, a recent report from Kieners suggests that, although wet, it's possible to traverse Broadway without needing to travel on snow. Obviously Lambslide is all snow but it sounds like the rest of the route is just wet, with upper snow patches being avoidable.

Funky weather swirling around McHenry's east side, Stone Man Pass filled in with snow

Oh yeah, there are a couple of bridges "out" on the approach into Glacier Gorge. They're still passable but there's a chance you could get pretty wet if you slipped off the current makeshift construction. Twin Owls and area (and other formations) remain closed at Lumpy Ridge for raptor nesting but otherwise Lumpy is great right now.

One of the bridge crossings on the way into Mills Lake

We're in the midst of an awesome summer with great conditions for many amazing objectives. Conditions change very quickly this time of year, from snow cover to creek flow to rockfall to weather. I could never hope to keep up with the daily changes taking place so if you see something you think I should know about it, please send me a note. Or if you just have questions, feel free to e-mail me at acouncell@totalclimbing.com. Thanks for reading and stay safe out there!

Andrew Councell is a CMS Guide and year-round Estes Park resident

A view of McHenry's and Arrowhead above Black Lake

Climbing the crux pitch on Spearhead's N. Face

The First Annual Rocky Mountain Rendezvous

2011-07-12T16:36:00.000-06:00

The 1st Annual Rocky Mountain Rendezvous will be held in Estes Park on August 26 and goes through to the 28th. This event is intended to partner with The 11th Annual Lumpy Ridge Trail Day on August 27th.

Come one, come all! This is an open invitation to the climbing community to come and enjoy each other's company, while drinking FREE BEER, scoring free give a ways that are being raffled off from companies like La Sportiva and Marmot. There will also be slide shows presented by sponsored climbers, like Tommy Caldwell.

All the proceeds from the event will benefit The American Alpine Club, and The Access Fund.

Not only that, but in the name of Lumpy Ridge we can all get a chance to give back to this amazing place that we all get to enjoy, by volunteering a day of service to help maintain the area.

Friday Night at 6pm we are kicking it off at Ed's Cantina and Grill in Estes Park! Saturday is Lumpy Ridge Trail Event, volunteers are welcome to free food courtesy of Poppy's Pizza and Grill. Sunday Colorado Mountain School is offering climbing clinics.

We are asking folks who want to participate in the events to register with us by calling: 1-800-836-4008 x 3

Longs Peak - North Face Trip Report

2011-06-28T16:16:00.001-06:00

Alpine Ice 2 cl 5.4 on Longs Peak 14,260’.

On the North Face of Longs there are eye bolts left behind from being first put up in 1925. There once were braded cables connecting between every eye bolt. They were removed in 1973 due to lighting striking climbers ascending the face.

Bruce and Craig were visiting us from Ohio. We spoke the night before to assure a start time and check over our equipment. Due warm conditions in the afternoon we decided to start at 12:30 am. We walked through the trees approaching the alpine tundra arriving at the Boulderfield at sun rise.

Alpine Glow means we gotta go.

Early morning melting on the rock slabs as we move over the first mixed rock and snow sending the 5.4 crux.

Past the cables section there was good step kicking conditions.

Bruce and Craig stopping for a photo opportunity with the ridge between Mt. Lady Washington in the back drop.

Strong work gentlemen for reaching the summit!

Yeah we climbed that! What did you do today?

We went down the way we came up. Stopping back at the Boulderfield to have afternoon snack and dunk our drinking bottles in the plentiful stream of fresh snowmelt, admiring the route once again. Our conversations begin as we descend the Longs Peak Trail to the trail head.

Conditions are great in Rocky Mountain National Park. I'd love to be your guide on your next adventure. Call the office today and lets get out in the mountains together.

Joey Thompson

CMS Guide

jthompson@totalclimbing.com
800-836-4008 x3

RMNP Conditions Report - 6/28/2011

2011-06-28T09:25:00.001-06:00

Below are a few different recent reports our office has received from our guides.

Longs Peak

"I went up the North Face of Long's on Friday (6/24). There is a lot of snow out there. We were walking across patches of snow after the first mile on the trail. There is plenty of water out there; the trail from Granite pass to the Boulderfield has a stream running in places. The campsites in the Boulderfield are free of snow. We walked up rocks to snow about 200 meters below the cables. The snow was soft at 7am. No major wet slides around but some pin wheeeling of rocks. Mostly snow through the cables with a touch of exposed rock. I saw three bolts exposed and used two for anchors. The very top one is still buried. I would guess the snow is melting fast and we do not seem to be getting cold nights. I bet the North Face is a safer choice until the Keyhole melts out some more." - R. Hunter

The Petit

"I climbed the Petit yesterday (6/26). The trail in is mostly dry until Loch Vale, after which it is almost all snow. At around 7am we found the snow slope below Lake of Glass to be frozen solid. There were descent steps but it was very slippery in approach shoes. A pair of aluminum crampons and some trekking poles would be nice. There is a bunch of avi debris spread across the trail there also, including some descent size trees which apparently came down from above the cliff higher up.

There is still a lot of snow at the base of the Petit. We ended up starting further to the left and higher up than I have in the past, and we had to traverse right across about 20ft of soft snow to get to the rock. The route and raps were completely dry. The hike out was very wet." - C. Burk

Dreamweaver and the Notch Couloir

"Climbed Dreamweaver and the Notch yesterday (6/26). Dreamweaver is in pretty good shape. Great bootpack to bottom of first constriction. First two are all rock, second two are snow/ice. Only one tool needed, no screws. I descended Lamb's Slide to get to Broadway, mostly snow. Notch was wet snow @ 6am. Good bootpack going up it, some ice @ dogleg. South ridge to summit was mostly dry. North Face is still snowy, echo Russell in that it's the easiest choice up Long's right now. Mostly kicking steps." - M. Soucy

Dreamweaver updated:
"Guided Dreamweaver today (6/28). The route is still in great shape. Things heating up there quickly, we left the Ships Prow Bivy at 4:30am and I would not have wanted to start any later. Lower snow slopes getting into the couloir proper were punchy, but got better the higher you went. Still good quick descending down the Loft.

Still enough snow to skirt the left side of Chasm lake. Looks like snow all the way up The Flying Dutchman still as well.

Heres a photo of one of the upper cruxes of Dreamweaver and one of Meeker/Loft." -E. Whewell

Notchtop

"A bunch of us climbed Notchtop yesterday (6/26) via Spiral route. Lots of loose blocks crept towards the edge of ledges with the recent melt-out. There is still a bit of snow in the east meadows up high but only 50' or so; the upper snow is avoidable. Strong winds kept us off the raps, we descended off the w. Ridge which was all dry until the descent gully which is very full of snow. Large cornices are over the NE face and eventually above the descent gully further down, definitely the one of the biggest hazard of the day up there. Its possible to thread the needle and keep it safe but still heads up. We took crampons and an axe each; never used the crampons but the axes were great to have for the descent." - A. Councell

Sundance - off Trail Ridge

"I was on the North Face of Sundance on Saturday (6/25) with a client for snow skills / couloir climb. This area is about a quarter mile east of the slopes that people ski and refer to by the same name. Great access and nice variety of options. The climbers right options are free of cornice hazard. (The central couloir has a good size cornice still.) We were on snow at 6:30 am and were getting 3-5cm boot pen at ~12K ft, (N and NE aspects). Only got worse from there. No freeze overnight." - M. Lipscomb

This is a great time to get out in the mountains. There is still a ton of snow to be climbed and the alpine rock season is now here. Please feel free to contact us if you have any questions or if you'd like to set up an outing with one of our guides.

Thanks and be safe out there,

Colorado Mountain School Staff

800-836-4008 x3

RMNP Conditions Report - June 22, 2011

2011-06-22T20:19:00.000-06:00

A view northwards into the Park from Longs' N. Face (6/6)

I look out to the east of the Colorado sky
The canyons are throwin' dust in the storms eye
And the storms gettin' angry I know that its so
It's fixin' to blow a little more of Colorado

Chris Ledoux

Dominik rock climbing on Lumpy's Left Book on a windy, chilly day (6/14)

Summer has arrived on the calendar but winter fights to hold onto the mountains. The wind has been blowing hard, making for cold climbing conditions throughout the Park. It snowed about 4-6" on Trail Ridge Road a couple days ago, reminding us all that the mountains and weather don't care at all what the calendar says. For those of us who love the snow and playing in it, this extended winter/spring has been a blessing. But the winds, oh the winds, just can't seem to take a hint and die down. Winds make an otherwise balmy day of cragging at Lumpy Ridge into a shiver-fest and turn the alpine world into a screaming nightmare. However, aside from good spring skiing, another benefit to the cooler/wintry weather has been a general absence of the vicious afternoon thunderstorms that are often the norm come summer. This isn't to say we haven't had a few t-storms here and there but nothing like what is often the case around here.

The amazing Flying Buttress soaring through the clouds (6/4)

A weekend-trip into the Chasm Lake Cirque last week gave us awesome climbing conditions on a few of the classics. Dreamweaver on Mt. Meeker was in fairly good shape, with the lower cruxes being mostly filled in with snow. Looking too easy, we opted to climb a steeper mixed line about 50' to the right of the standard start, which ended up being WI3ish/M5ish and a fun/hard variation to the climb. You could take an ice-screw for Dreamweaver but you probably wouldn't need it; lots of rock gear around. The descent down the Loft is about as easy as it gets right now, with the usual 60' cliffs being mostly buried. I've heard of people rappelling this area recently (and we did find a hopelessly awful "anchor" pinched between to small boulders that I wouldn't hang my hat on) but careful downclimbing through the steeper sections gives way to 1000' of glissading into Chasm Meadows.

Looking up our mixed, harder variation to Dreamweaver (6/5)

Looking down the same pitch as Roger sends (6/5)

Roger nearing the top of the hard climbing on good ice (6/5)

We also linked Martha's on Mt. Lady Washington in the N. Face on Longs, which ended up being a great link-up. Martha's, however, was on its last leg with delaminating ice and lots of loose rubble to contend with. CMS Guide Bob Chase guided it a few days ago and suggested that the route is done for the season, too much objective hazard to guide safely.

Nearing the top of Dreamweaver (6/5)

The N. Face on Longs was great climbing on firm snow. There are three bolts exposed on the old Cables Route and lots of boot-tracks to suggest possible route options to the summit. We enjoyed a near-windless summit (oddly) and I was able to get a look at the upper Keyhole. The Homestretch had substantial snow on it with the current line of ascent traversing on snow higher than the typical dry/summer climb. The Trough looks like it's all snow from top to bottom and most of the ledges and the boulders up to the Keyhole are covered in snow. The Boulderfield is melting out but most of the campsites remain under snow. Upper Glacier Gorge remains pretty snow-locked as well but the east faces of the various peaks are definitely much less snowy than two weeks ago. Black Lake and the lakes above are all pretty frozen still.

Approaching Longs' N. Face

Looking up at the Cables Route, bolts exposed (6/6)

Descending the N. Face of Longs

In general, in the Chasm Lake area, south-facing snow routes are pretty much done. Flying Dutchman, Lambslide, the Notch, and Kieners all look awesome and fairly snowy. The Flying Buttress (5.9) appears to be dry as are some of the NW-facing rock routes high on Meeker's N. Face. The Yellow Wall on the Diamond looks good but getting up there would be the crux. I don't know how it looks currently but the Window route was in fat last week. Of particular note, I witnessed a couple of climbers running for their lives while crossing the snow-field under Mt. Lady Washington's S. Face as a large rock came bounding off the mountain above them. This was at 10:30am. Falling rock is a very real hazard and prudence suggests quick passage below suspect cliffs; "pepper" on the snow below cliffs suggests how active rockfall may be but it's still worth moving quickly in those spots. You never know.

Cornice-triggered slab in Wild Basin

Looking west towards a snowy Keyhole

Ice dribbling out of rock on Longs' N. Face (6/6)

Looking down the Homestretch

Looking down on Lambslide from the summit of Longs

The Window on Longs

A snowy Boulderfield (6/6)

Snow-climbing is better than most years, with a longer-than-usual period of warm days and freezing/clear nights. With Trail Ridge Road open (unless another rogue snowstorm blows through), snow-alpine routes are easily accessible all over the area (Sundance, for example). This area is popular with both climbers and skiers and offers some great terrain. The Never Summer Range is also a lot more accessible for us Front-Rangers now; they are living up to their name, looking in full winter conditions. I wish I had a day off so I could get up there and ski some of the lines I've been ogling for years!

Looking across the N. Face of Sundance

More of the N. Face of Sundance, looking west

Climbing steep snow on Sundance N. Face (6/13)

I was recently guiding around the Crestones in the Sangre de Cristo Range just outside of Westcliffe where the snowpack was overall much thinner than the central/northern parts of Colorado. We endured 50mph winds for the three days we were up there and although many people turned around as a result we managed to get up a more than a few mountains. Overall dry conditions lended nicely to rock climbing but the screaming winds kept us off our main objectives for the moment. Looking northwards towards Crested Butte/Aspen, the mountains looked much whiter.

Snow climbing on Sundance Mt's N. Face (6/13)

AJ on Sundance

I was just talking with the Aspen Expeditions guys and they were saying that they have huge cornices in their area. This ties into our area because we, also, are dealing with a fatter-than-usual snowpack. Large cornices are hanging precipitously all over; in both Aspen and RMNP these monsters are dropping with little warning. The scary thing is that these events don't seem to be tied to a time of day; for example, some are dropping in the night, others in the heat of the day, and still others at 8:00am. A recent report from the Ptarmigan Fingers suggested great snow climbing but noting a fresh cornice release and minor wet-loose activity at 10:30am. Noticing a pattern? With these warmer days upon us, pay special attention to any terrain that leads you to climbing underneath these natural guillotines.

Large cornices like this present a big hazard, ready to fall off and obliterate

Finally, summer feels like it's arrived with blazing-hot temps along the Front Range valleys. While Eldo and the Flatirons continue to heat up and become uncomfortable to climb in the afternoon, climbers will be turning their attention to the alpine. The Petit S. Face is reportedly climbable/dry as is the S. Ridge on Notchtop. Even if you're just alpine-rock climbing, it's probably worth wearing boots and bringing the mountaineering gear (at least an ice axe) for the approach/descent...just in case. CMS Guide Eric Whewell just got back from the Tyndall Gorge area and wrote in: "Hallet appeared to be climbable...but still lots of snow on the descent." There is lots of dry rock in the Park but you should be prepared for wet stuff too; this may mean "new-routing" or deviating from the typical routes.

Nearing the summit of Humboldt, Crestones behind (6/19)

Bighorn sheep below the Crestone Needle

The complex and steep E. Face of the Crestones

Obviously Lumpy is all dry but I keep hearing about the ticks up at McGregor Slab. I'm keen to head up to Wizard's Gate on Twin Sisters which seems to have finally dried out. There's so much to do in the Park, too much. The only bummer is that there's not enough time to get out and do it all. The conditions change so quickly and this season is just too short. The mountains are alive and demand respect (it's been a tragic year in other mountains these past 6 weeks) so let's keep it safe up there. Send it!

Looking towards the Crestones from Kit Carson's summit (6/19)

Fresh snow on the Crestone Needle in...summer? (6/20)

If you have any observations from RMNP or have questions, please feel free to contact me at acouncell@totalclimbing.com. It's great to hear from readers!

Andrew Councell is a CMS Guide and year-round Estes Park resident

The Never Summer Range living up to its name (6/21)

Upper Forest Canyon looking snowier than usual (6/21)

Alpine Guide Course

2011-06-21T10:23:00.004-06:00

Congrats to our guides Norie Kazaki and Ian Fowler for successfully completing the AMGA Alpine Guides Course this past month held in Rocky Mountain National Park. No easy task! But non the less it looks like they had fun. Working hard to play hard!

Revo Sunglass Giveaway!

2011-06-13T15:36:00.006-06:00

Here at the Colorado Mountain School we're in full swing for the summer climbing season. In order to kick things off in style, CMS has partnered with Revo to get you set up with the best gear for your next mountain adventure! All you have to do is think of your top climbing objective in Boulder or Rocky Mountain National Park that you would love to someday find yourself climbing wearing your new Revo’s, make a post on CMS’s FB page and you’ll be entered. Easy as that. If you include a shot of this destination all the better! Winner’s will be chosen on Friday the June 17th. So get posting!

The Colorado Mountain School and it's guides are committed to passing on the passion that we share for the sport of climbing. As the premier guide services in the US, CMS is committed to providing you the best climbing and backcountry skiing experience. Join us for your next adventure in the Colorado high country.

The winner will receive a pair of polarized Revo Sterns. These glasses are a modern take on a classic style, designed for the active person who demands features wrapped in style. The Sterns were launched earlier this spring and have gotten terrific reviews in publications such as Outside magazine.

Check out the CMS Facebook for your chance to win.
For more information on Revo and the Sterns check out their website at: www.revo.com

RMNP Conditions Report - June 9, 2011

2011-06-10T09:34:00.001-06:00

Hiking into the alpen glow in Chasm Lake Cirque (6/4)

In my worst moments of anguish, I seemed to discover the deep significance of existence of which till then I had been unaware. I saw it was better to be true than to be strong. The marks of the ordeal are apparent on my body: I was saved and I had won my freedom…the assurance and serenity of a man who has fulfilled himself…A new and splendid life has opened out before me. -- Maurice Herzog

Greg Sievers hiking back to the car on Trail Ridge Road (6/9)

Those words, “better to be true than to be strong” have really resonated with me. There are those who are strong but hollow or empty underneath that strength; their strength hides the deeper flaw like a thin facade. Strong but trapped in a cycle, not free. Of course, it’d be awesome to be both true and strong but if nothing else, at the least, let me be true and free.

Andy and Donovan getting into the business on Martha Couloir, Mt. Lady Washington (6/4)

Anyway, enough of my blithering. After a quick trip to Rainier, I came home to Colorado to find yet more inclement weather, rain in the lowlands and snow in the high country. Since then, with the onset of warm, summer-like weather the Park has been changing too rapidly to even try to keep up with. The snow has been melting so fast that we’re navigating obstacles in the afternoon that were completely buried that same morning. With some barely-freezing temps at night (but thankfully combined with clear nights), we’ve been able to enjoy some good snow/ice climbing around the Park but have had to start much earlier than usual to get up and off the snow before it gets too warm. This week we’ve at least had temps a little cooler at night and the same holds true for the foreseeable future. However, it does look like the classic afternoon/evening thunderstorms are beginning to start up. We enjoyed a fantastic lightning show last night from our house!

Sunrise over the Twin Sisters (6/4)

Andy moving strong in the upper pitches of Martha's (6/4)

The skiing in the Park continues to be better than usual with the best coverage in June many of us have seen in a long time. This morning, for example, we skied down the north side of Sundance and found perfect corn and an easy, fun descent. Other areas like the Ptarmigans and Notchtop lines are holding plenty of snow as well. As of Monday, it was still possible to keep the skis on all the way to the Bear Lk TH coming down the Tyndall Gorge. Elsewhere (Longs, Flattop, Glacier Gorge) you can expect to be walking the skis quite a ways from the parking lot, with intermittent snow gradually giving way to skinnable terrain.

Greg S. getting ready to ski down the N. side of Sundance (6/9)

Trail Ridge Road is open, giving skiers easy access to lots of high-altitude snow. Too many people hang up their skis too early; June is typically not the greatest month for skiing but, so far, this year has proved a major exception with great skiing likely to be had well into the month.
While warm, sunny rock beckons from the Estes valley and Boulder areas, many of us have been opting to play in the alpine. As I’ve already mentioned, one of the most challenging elements lately has been just getting up early enough to get to and climb the routes before they become too warm & dangerous.

Hiking back up Sundance, a very snow-covered Fall River Road below (6/9)

For example, this past week I saw a couple of parties start way too late up Lambslide with the intention of either climbing the Notch Couloir or Keiners on Longs Peak. At around 10:30, while we were sitting comfortably atop Mt. Lady Washington, I witnessed a climber get absolutely pummeled by an avalanche as he was halfway across Broadway ledge. I held my breath, expecting to see this climber get swept off Broadway but, somehow, he managed to hang on…and keep going (I still can’t figure that part out, I’d have turned around so fast it’d make your head spin).

Longs grand E. Face & Diamond as of 6/6

Last Sunday, above the Dragontail Couloir on Flattop, myself and a guest were talking about a huge, overhanging cornice that was looming over the lookers’ right fork of the DTC. A party of skiers had just finished skiing the run maybe 20-30 minutes before it suddenly calved off the cliff face as we watched in awe from above. The cornice (and entrained snow) swept 85% of the width of the couloir, screaming down to Emerald Lake with fridge-sized blocks bounding intact 1500’ down. Had that party of skiers been a little later, they would not have survived the carnage.

Where the cornice broke off and landed before it's 2000' plunge (6/5)

The cornice-triggered avalanche sweeping towards Emerald Lake (6/5)

I was climbing in Martha Couloir last Saturday (along with nearly a dozen other people) and found conditions to be quite good (firm and frozen) despite the big warm-up. We found protectable ice for nearly 200’ of climbing. But when I was guiding the same route again on Monday, we found significantly different conditions. There was still some ice, and still good climbing to be had, but you could see a remarkable difference in the coverage and quality of the ice on the route. Underneath it all was a veritable waterfall you could hear, draining from the sun-soaked snowfield above. And the smoked from the Arizona wildfire wasn’t helping the issue either, clouding the nighttime sky, trapping the heat and keeping the snow surface from cooling. Fortunately that issue seems to have blown itself out but beware if it should come back. With cold, clear nights we at least get a window, however small, of safe climbing conditions but if things never cool off and refreeze, look out: the mountains will be shedding their white skins.

Another cornice triggered avalanche, this one a slab ~2' deep on Notchtop's NE Face (6/5)

For a brief while, Stettner’s Ledges and Fields Chimney looked like awesome ice/mixed routes but I think they’re well melted out now. Alexander’s Chimney is so buried that the route starts somewhere around the usual second pitch. There are boot-tracks up most of the classics in the Chasm Lake Cirque (Dreamweaver, Flying Dutchman, Lambslide, the Notch, Longs’ N. Face, etc), and maybe up some of the lesser-known routes after an AMGA Alpine Guides Course just wrapped up a few days in the area. The N. Chimney is roughly half of its usual length with snow reaching nearly to Broadway. While the Diamond’s Yellow Wall itself looks dry, melting snow from near the summit guarantees adventure climbing at some point. The Casual Route is guarded by 2-3 ton blobs of snow sitting on ledges above the first 3-4 pitches. Even the Chasm View wall holds snow on most of the ledges.

Climbing the far left side of the Dragontail Couloir with lots of Arizona smoke in the air (6/5)

Anthony V. topping out the Dragontail (6/5)

A number of parties have climbed Hallet Chimney recently, one reporting thin/sketchy/unprotectable conditions but a little easier-than-usual climbing. On Notchtop the Spiral Route has been climbed and the rock routes above Spiral’s long ledge traverse are apparently dry. I would imagine that, while maybe still wet in spots, the S. Face of the Petit holds good rock climbing as well. Upper Glacier Gorge still looks very filled in, with the Spearhead sticking out like a nunatak, still surrounded by deep snows.

Three skiers descending the N. Face of Longs (6/4)

The main thing to watch out for now is how quickly the snow warms up during the day. Wet-loose avalanches are no joke, especially when you’re climbing. How cold/clear it was the night before may give you some indication of how much time you have but if you’re sinking knees deep in slush than it’s too late…get off steep snow as quickly as you can. And as we were reminded just a few days ago, be very skeptical of any climbing underneath cornices. They have been popping off all over the Park with some (like we saw) with no visual indicators. Otherwise, the Park is amazing right now with lots of fun climbing and skiing to be had. We’re off to a great start to the summer climbing season!

Anthony V. sending Martha's (6/6)

Andrew Councell is a CMS Guide and year-round Estes Park resident

Topping out a great alpine route with some of the best views in the Park!

Trip Report 2 of 2 - Alaskan Range

2011-06-04T15:29:00.000-06:00

The Alaska Range is one of the most inspiring ranges I have ever visited. Iconic peaks: Denali, Hunter, and Foraker surround the Kahiltna basecamp and adorn the Talkeetna skyline. This range attracts alpinists from all around the world to come test their skills in one of the greatest, albeit most challenging ranges on the planet.

I was fortunate enough to guide a trip to this great range with Senior Guide Steve Johnson and 3 guests. Our initial itinerary was to fly into the Root Canal to attempt Ham and Eggs on the Mooses Tooth. With difficult conditions this season combined with a fatality at camp the week before, we amended our plans and flew onto the Kahiltna Glacier. Mini Moonflower and Bacon and Eggs on the North Flank of Mt. Hunter were the primary objectives on our new itinerary. Akin to Ham and Eggs, both routes are mostly ice with a few mixed sections and similar in length.

Day one, we all met at Talkeetna Air Taxi and began weighing our bags. As per TAT rules, each person is allotted 125lbs of equipment on the plane. This can be a difficult task to make weight with food for everyone for a week plus climbing and camping gear to survive on the glacier. After an hour or so of sorting gear and weighing in, we were ready. Like most things on expeditions, nothing happens fast. With the weather deteriorating in Talkeetna and clouding up on the glacier, no one was quick to fly. After scrambling to pack, we sit and play the hurry up and wait game.

Around 5pm we get the call that we are flying. We quickly grab our bags and haul them over to the airstrip to start loading the “Otter” that we will fly in on. Thirty minutes later we are in the air.

We arrived at Basecamp around 6pm to sunny skies and no wind. We unload the plane and slog 700lbs of gear up the hill to camp. The rest of the evening is spent getting our tents up and eating dinner before the sun drops behind Forakers’ North Ridge and temperatures plummet.

A restful night of sleep finds us with clear skies in the morning. We make eggs and sausage for breakfast with some fresh instant coffee to wash it down with. Most of day 2 is spent digging in the kitchen and our “living room.”

Despite the 20 hours of daylight in AK, the days go quick. Before long the sun has once again disappeared behind Foraker and it’s getting cold.

Day 3 was a climbing day. We left camp around 7am for the Mini Moonflower and Bacon and Eggs. It’s a long walk to the North Flank of Hunter from basecamp, around 2 hours. Fred and I were the first on Bacon and Eggs this season, which made trail breaking very difficult. We wallowed in steep waist deep snow up to the bergshrund where the initial pitches start. I could see Steve, Jim, and John cruising up the trail to the ‘shrund where Mini Moonflower begins. Getting through the bergshrund onto the first ice pitch, to my delight, was much easier than I had anticipated. With a high step and some marginal sticks, I was on the hard glacial ice. Due to the frigid temps the ice was extremely brittle and to my dismay, harder than it appeared.

After a few pitches of bullet hard ice and frigid temps, we decided to retreat as the weather was rapidly deteriorating. We rapped down and began our descent on the glacier back to camp as visibility diminished. We arrived back at camp around 6pm, 11 hours after we left.

We awoke to broken skies and light winds. We spent most of the day melting snow and fraternizing with our British friends, “Paul” and “Spider” who were camped next to us.

The following day was an early rise for climb on the Radio Tower. We crossed heavily crevassed areas with poor visibility. Temperatures were warmer so we were sure get through the hanging serac zones early before they had time to melt. The climb consisted of classic Alaskan ridge climbing and moderate snow. We all summited with mostly cloudy skies and once again, not much for visibility. The team returned to camp 8 hours after our early departure.

We departed from the Kahiltna 2 days later after high winds shut down most flights for the day. The team met for dinner that night at “The West Rib,” a classic Talkeetna watering hole. We left for Anchorage the next day, parting ways after a successful trip in the Alaska Range.

Not everyone can make it up to Alaska, and that's fine. Our backyard, Rocky Mountain National Park, has some world class mountaineering of it's own. If you'd like to get out, I'd love to be your guide.

-Eric Whewell
CMS Guide

Trip Report 1 of 2 - Mt. Rainier

2011-06-04T11:35:00.000-06:00

Mt. Rainier, Fuhrer Finger
13-14 May 2011

Mt. Rainier is a massive volcanic mountain located some 50 miles southeast of Seattle, Washington. With a summit elevation of 14, 411 ft., Mt. Rainier is the tallest in the Cascade Range and in the state of Washington. On clear days, it dominates the southeastern horizon of the Seattle metropolitan area. With 26 major glaciers and 36 square miles of snowfields and glaciers, it is the most heavily glaciated peak in the lower 48 states. The minimum ante to gain the summit is more than 9000 ft. of elevation gain and more than 14 miles roundtrip, crossing heavily glaciated terrain, and with the constant threat of the notoriously unstable Pacific Northwest weather. Despite those details (or perhaps because of them), some 10,000 people will attempt to climb Mt. Rainier each year, 90% of them via the Camp Muir – Disappointment Cleaver route. (Most of the rest of the parties will attempt the Emmons Glacier route from the northeast.)

South Face of Mt. Rainier.

Mt. Rainier has been on my list for more than a decade, but for various reasons I’ve never been able to make it happen. With reports of an epic spring snow pack in the Cascades and feeling strong after an already amazing ski season, Tanya and I rallied to Seattle to give it a go. We chose the Fuhrer Finger route for a number reasons: A) it’s one of the shortest and fastest summit routes, B) if conditions allowed, we could potentially ski a continuous 10400 vertical foot run from the summit to the Nisqually Bridge, and C) we would avoid the hordes on the Disappointment Cleaver route and could actually enjoy the mountain wilderness.

Descending onto the lower Nisqually Gl.

The latest weather forecast was calling for two days of high pressure with clear skies, solid freezes overnight, and seasonally warm temps during the day. We were cautiously optimistic that we had “caught” one of the rare NW weather windows!

Climbing the Lower Nisqually Gl.

The Fuhrer Finger Couloir comes into view (above and slightly left of me in this photo).

Our plan was to ascend the Lower Nisqually Glacier to the Wilson Glacier and then camp at around 9000 ft. on the lower Kautz Ridge. Camping on the ridge would not only be scenic, but it would be safely out of harms way from potential crevasse fall of the Upper Wilson Glacier.

Setting up camp on the Kautz Ridge.

View from the tent (Mt Adams on the horizon).

Strong winds and cold temps ensured a solid freeze overnight. The firm conditions made for excellent cramponing as we traversed the Wilson Glacier to access the Fuhrer Finger. Conditions varied as we ascended and we found everything from firm neve to boot deep wind slab. As we reached the dog-leg of the couloir, we witnessed a really cool solar halo. (Ice crystals in the thin upper level clouds refracting sun light to form a halo.)

Crossing the Wilson Glacier.

Solar halo.

We knew that the tricky part of the route would be finding the cut-off to access the Upper Nisqually Glacier. The cut-off is the one relatively safe line through the heavily crevassed zone at approximately 12,400 ft. It is also possible to follow the rock rib directly up from the Finger couloir, but the skiing on the Upper Nisqually looked much better than what we saw near the ridge.

The crux of the cut-off was finding this 20 ft wide section where the crevasses narrowed enough to step across safely.

Heavily crevassed zone on the Upper Nisqually.

We were still feeling strong and making good time as we reached 14,000 ft and could see the summit cone just above us. The winds had been picking up as we climbed, but were not bad (certainly not by Colorado standards). But conditions changed in a heart beat as clouds rolled in, visibility dropped to less than 10 ft and the wind picked up to nearly 40 mph. We stopped long enough to put on puffy jackets and briefly discuss our options. The combination of strong winds, cold temps, limited visibility, high crevasse hazard, and the recent fatality near our high point made the choice easy: time to descend.

Weather changing, time to descend.

We had to descend nearly 1500 vertical feet to escape the cloud. With the immense crevasse hazard looming on either side and below our route (and hidden by the low visibility), it was a good test of the white-out navigation skills. Snow conditions in the Finger couloir were still a bit firm thanks to the winds and cloud cover, but conditions steadily improved as we descended. We stopped long enough to pack up camp and have a quick snack. Then 4500 more vertical feet of skiing with perfect corn conditions!

Below the cloud and entering the Fuhrer Finger couloir.

Descending the Wilson Glacier onto the lower Nisqually Gl.

Back on the Muir ridge near 5500 ft, temps were warm and winds wer calm. (Summit still shrouded in clouds.)

Snowbank in the parking lot.

We were a little disappointed not to have summited, but were still psyched to have climbed and skied the lion’s share of the Fuhrer Finger route. It truly is a classic line on an iconic mountain.

See you in the backcountry.

-Matt Lipscomb
CMS Guide

Spring is the best time to climb and ski many of the classic lines in Colorado and beyond! Join us for a day of guided ski mountaineering and learn the skills to safely enjoy these majestic routes.

Boulder Canyon's Castle Rock Clean Up

2011-05-25T14:09:00.000-06:00

The article below was taken from the Boulder Daily Camera

Written by Chris Weidner

Photos by Joe Sambataro

The surreal scene at Boulder Canyon's Castle Rock on Friday was like the setup for a punch line.

Thirty-odd climbers and half a dozen Boulder County workers -- including cops in uniform -- worked side-by-side to stabilize erosion, erase graffiti and clean up trash. Historically, climbers and the county have butted heads on land-use issues, so their overt cooperation was almost comical.

"The land managers aren't our enemies," laughed Roger Briggs, longtime Boulder climbing pioneer and founder of the Boulder Climbing Community. "We all have similar goals."

One goal of the BCC is to facilitate civil discussions and consensus building on how to best care for Eldorado Canyon, the Flatirons and Boulder Canyon.

Just over a year ago, Briggs met with 15 influential Boulder climbers to discuss his idea for the BCC. Initially, Briggs wanted "some kind of communication structure" among local climbers. It began with an e-mail list, but since April 2010, the BCC has become an umbrella organization that supports and enhances existing groups such as the Flatirons Climbing Council and the Action Committee for Eldorado.

"And where there are holes, like in Boulder Canyon, we take over," Briggs said.

Right now, the BCC is taking on an important -- if not enormous -- task that will benefit Boulder Canyon, its climbers and all its user groups for years to come. The BCC is trying to coordinate Boulder Canyon's land managers, recreation groups and private property owners in an effort to preserve and care for the environment.

The problem is that Boulder Canyon is a perplexing patchwork of landowners, land managers and recreation groups, several of which have competing interests. Here's what I mean: Boulder Canyon is owned and managed jointly by the U.S. Forest Service, Boulder County, the city of Boulder, the Colorado Department of Transportation and private individuals. Most of the climbing is on Forest Service land, but some crags, such as the Bowling Alley, are owned by three different agencies.

"My dream is to have cooperation between these agencies and to make Boulder Canyon a better place for everyone, not just climbers," Briggs said.

With tremendous support from the Access Fund, a Boulder-based organization that preserves access to U.S. climbing areas, the BCC is in the process of becoming a nonprofit organization.

"But right now," Briggs said, "we're just running on good energy and people's spirits."

So far, it's working.

The BCC was recently awarded a grant from the Colorado Mountain Club to help put together specific proposals for trail design in Boulder Canyon. The crux is the Forest Service, which must deal with lengthy studies and permit processes before any official trail work or maintenance is begun.

"The Forest Service is interested in the idea of cooperation and stewardship, but they are constrained by their own administrative challenges," said Joe Sambataro, access director at the Access Fund. "We are hopeful that the Forest Service will make this a high priority for us to move forward."

Working with Boulder County at the Castle Rock Cleanup was an important first step for the BCC. Both Briggs and Sambataro hope that the cleanup will not only set a precedent for future stewardship events but will serve as an example to the Forest Service of the kind of relationship that can exist between climbers and land managers.
"It blows my mind how great the county is to work with," Briggs said.

Thanks to Briggs and the BCC, events like Friday's Castle Rock Cleanup will continue to encourage competing interest groups to work together to improve Boulder Canyon.

Everyone can be involved in the BCC and the future of Boulder Canyon.

"It's all about inclusiveness and working together," Briggs said. "I want the public to know that climbers are good stewards."