Monday, June 21, 2010

Longs Peak Conditions

I had the pleasure of guiding my client, Josh, up the classic North Face route on Longs Peak this weekend.  Climbing conditions were very pleasant.  Above 12,000 feet has been freezing solid over the past couple of nights, and a cool moderate breeze has helped to keep things in good condition.  Firm step kicking offered comfortable climbing in the early morning, becoming less consolidated as solar radiation increased.  There is still a bunch of snow from the last storm event, but now a pretty good trail off of the summit down to the last eye bolt (3 bolts showing).  The keyhole is still covered with snow most of the entire way up and down, but the "D" looks dry - not a lot of dripping or wetness in the middle of the wall.  Chasm View wall looks totally dry with the bivy sites still under drifts.  Many routes up Longs Peak peak are in condition right now, and even more will be very soon.  Don't miss your window - let's go climbing!

Joseph Thompson
AIARE Level 1 Instructor
AMGA Certified Rock Guide
AMGA Certified Single Pitch Program Instructor

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