Boulder Rock Club Jr. Team: Red River Gorge

Having left the Red River Gorge in late October in 2009, I left with a strong resolve to return stronger and fitter than before. Finalizing a Spring Break trip with the Boulder Rock Club Jr. Team, I started planning my pre-Red training regimen. I spent most of the winter bouldering indoors and out and finished with a two week rest phase to heal properly before torturing myself back into route climbing shape for the Red, Spring 2010.

Having experienced one of the worst winters ever to climb outside in Boulder, Colorado, my training became an indoor endeavor. Unfortunately for me, dry winter air and my naturally dry skin kept me from training nearly as much as I wanted to. Plus the two-week cold/sinus infection made things even worse, but my list of excuses of why my trip could be a weak showing was already a page long. I did manage a couple of good workouts that I think helped my trip. First of all I knew how steep and long the Red was and how short the BRC was relative to it. I stayed mostly on our steep Tsunami and tried to link as many 5.12’s together as possible (not that many). Secondly, I managed to stay on our bouldering wall for as long as possible. I would try to climb, literally, in circles. I did not manage too many circles. It did pay off, I think.  Finally, I managed a few of Chris Wall’s workouts at the BRC that crushed my will to live as well as my muscles and lungs.

The tick list: Every climber has got one. This trip to the Red was no different. Between my wife, Jen, 4 Jr. Team members, and me our tick list was getting huge. We had just a week of climbing, so I was planning 5, 6 days on? Kids heal quickly. They don’t need to rest right?  Unfortunately or fortunately for us, rain happens in Kentucky. We did manage a few rest days due to rain, but we also managed some great climbing days. The list goes like:

Day One: Funk Rock City. Manic Impression 10a. onsighted by Mica. Flashed by Adam. Classic 12c Orange Juice. Sent by Dallas, Stefan, and Tony.  Hardcore Jollies 12a. onsighted by Tony, flashed by Dallas.

Day Two: Curbside and Purgatory. Wildfire 12a. onsighted by Dallas, flashed by Stefan and Tony. Sent by Mica. Paradise Lost 13b. flashed by Dallas.

Day Three: Dark Side and Solar Collector. Budha Hole 12a. onsighted by Tony, flashed by Dallas and Stefan. The Force 13a. Flashed by Dallas. Sent by Tony. Tuskan Raider 12d. Flashed by Dallas and Sean Raboutou. Sent by Stefan.  Shanghai 12d. Onsighted by Robyn Raboutou. Sent by Sean Raboutou.

Day Four: Roadside Crag.  Ro Shampo 12a. Onsighted by Dallas. Flashed by Stefan. Strevels Gets in Shape 12b. Onsighted by Dallas. Sent by Dallas and Mica. Wild Gift 12c. Onsighted by Dallas. Sent by Stefan

Day Five: Drive By Crag and the Motherlode. Make a Wish 10c. Flashed by Adam. Check Your Grip 12a. Onsighted by Dallas and flashed by Stefan. 40 Ounces of Justice 13a. Onsighted by Tony. Flashed by Dallas. Snooker 13a. Flashed by Tony. Sent by Dallas. Chain Saw Massacre 12a. Sent by Stefan.

All in all, the team had a great trip. Huge factors to that are staying in a cabin, which I recommend to anyone and everyone planning a trip to the Red. Camping in the rain after a day of climbing in the rain does not equate to happy children or adults for that matter. Second would be the two-hour flight to Cincinnati rather than the two-day drive across country from Boulder to Slade. The kids returned to the Boulder Rock Club re-psyched to climb on ropes and getting ready for the upcoming sport climbing series. Next on our list for summer trips; sport climbing in Kalymnos, Greece. Gotta start training for than soon…

Tony Yao
Head Route Setter & Jr Team Coach
Boulder Rock Club
tyao@totalclimbing.com
800-836-4008