Ice Climbing: Lincoln Falls

My friend and I wear really psyched for ice climbing after all of the recent snow fall. We then took a chance to scout out some early ice conditions. I knew that some areas are more likely to have ice than others. I was looking for cooler temps and shaded aspects with higher elevation for forming ice. Also considering the hike in and a recon mission, I though that Lincoln Falls would be a great venue to check. Little did we know what we were in store for.

The drive in to the parking area was a great time to confirm there would be good ice. Once we saw the main gully in a mild blue hue I knew that there was potential for some climbing.

The 1st pitch was a little more wet on the right side the h2o was rushing down the ice fall. Over all there was pretty deep ice. The ice fall took screws and swings.

The second pitch was a bit more interesting. With chandeliers and steeper terrain, I was paying closer attention as to where my placements went . During early season one must try to tread lightly on this forming ice. Ice that is not ready to lead one must really try to avoid it for future climbing.

We found great mixed top roping with out bashing the ice pack apart that was still forming.

Working together we were able to come up with a plan. As mountain guides we are trained to be consciences of the resources and lead by example.

When the early season has you pumped to climb remember to think about preservation and the future of the season for you and especially others.

Joey Thompson
CMS Guide
AMGA Certified Rock Guide
AIARE Level 1 Instructor
jthompson@totalclimbing.com