Skiing Dragon Tail Couloir

Spring skiing is still crankin' in Rocky Mountain National Park! CMS Guides Matt Lipscomb, Joey Thompson and Mike Alkaitis spent this morning on a training outing up and down Dragon Tail Couloir.

Dragon Tail Couloir

Colorado Mountain School Guide Rainbow Weinstock heads to Rocky Mountain National Park to climb a local classic, Dragon Tail Couloir, with Outside Television.  Mountaineering season is here, let's go climbing!

Weekly Wednesday Blog Post: Looking through a client's eyes

Thursday was... a day of cold, wind, clouds, sun, adventure, challenge, and fun!

Eldorado Canyon State Park is simply a maze of quality challenging climbs - leaving you tired, satisfied, and ready for more – especially with an experienced guide, Steve Johnson.

CMS Senior Guide, Steve Johnson, guiding in Ecuador

Meeting at the parking lot at the beginning of Eldo's tall canyon walls, we readied our gear.  The location of this area is perfect - just outside of Boulder Colorado.  Steep climbable cliffs line the edge of rushing South Boulder Creek.  After a 30 minute uphill trudge we reach the base of the Rewritten.  Wind, cold, and clouds had us wearing every piece of clothing we had, but by the time Steve led the first pitch the sun came sweetly flooding our little rock world!  Shedding two layers, I began climbing the first pitch of this classic.  There was almost every type of climbing movement on this great route; face, crack, lie-back, chimney, roof, inset.  But the best and most exciting was that the sharp, exposed arête near the top of pitch 4(?).  Stepping out into space with winds gusting 40 - 50 mph took all my courage!  All the while, Steve calling out encouragement, "you CAN do this!"  And then the step across the void onto another face from the arête was definitely the "move of the day."  Steve drew out of me the willingness to trust how he told me exactly where to place my feet as I stemmed out across this scary void!

The amazing arete pitch.  Photo taken from mountainproject.com

We topped out but the adventure wasn't quite over.  The decent required careful route finding and down climbing some steep 4th class terrain.  Steve led the way safely and kept the rope on me until we were back on the main trail.

We finally reached our packs left at the start of the climb many hours before.  The fall sun was setting and the blue day sky was turning an amazing deep azure - all while a train chugged way up high across the canyon in the fading light.  This golden day was made possible because of Steve's experience, incredible skill, and great attention to detail.  From start to end - a day to remember.  I can't wait for another run.  "Hey Steve, where to next?!"

-Colorado Mountain School Client, Mary M.

If you would like to get out and climb a route like this one, or any other routes in Eldorado Canyon, let us know.  We can guide there any day of the week.

Coloardo Mountain School

800-836-4008 x3

Weekly Wednesday Blog Post: The Scenic Cruise

The Black Canyon is home to some of the longest and best rock climbs in the state of Colorado.  It is a place that has an intimidating and dark reputation.  Horror stories of bad rock, dicey runouts, and getting benighted can be heard whenever the The Black is mentioned.  Think of Yosemite’s bad ugly brother that lives in the attic and you’ll get the picture of this brooding canyon.   Despite The Black’s fearsome reputation, the classic routes are as good as you will find anywhere and can be a great place to hone your skills for bigger alpine rock objectives in the greater ranges.

One of my personal favorites, not just in The Black, but anywhere is the ultra-classic “Scenic Cruise.”  It’s a 15 pitch (by the guidebook) mostly crack climb straight up the southwest face of the North Chasm View wall.  It has everything a climber wants: great climbing, aesthetic quality, good rock, and you top out at the beer cooler.  Your first time on a route of this magnitude can be intimidating physically, mentally, and logistically.  I hope to dispel some rumors and give some hopefully helpful beta on how to climb The Scenic in a timely, expedient manner.

If you are a solid 5.10 trad leader climbing this route in 8 hours should be totally attainable.  Before you go, make sure you and your partner are fast with belay transitions and have good route finding skills.  Do your homework:  Research the climb beforehand.  Read guidebooks, online trip reports, talk to friends, and look at any beta photos you can.  Become as familiar with the terrain as you can.  Plan ahead:  Scout the Cruise Gully entrance the day before so you don’t get lost in the morning. Each climber should have a copy of the topo with them on the climb.  Figure out who is leading what pitch before you go.  Know that retreat would be difficult and expensive.  So here it is, the how to.

The Kit:

Small backpacks for leader and follower (10-15L capacity e.g. Black Diamond BBEE)
Minimum of 2L of water each  (Hydration systems are helpful)
Roll of athletic tape
Enough food to keep you going for 12 hours
Knife
Headlamps
Camera
Emergency space blanket (this is something I always carry with me on long routes)
Good weather forecast!

The Rack:

70m rope mandatory for linking pitches
1-2 sets of stoppers with RP’s
1x green C3
1x red C3
2x .3 Camalot
2x .4 Camalot
2x .5 Camalot
2x .75 Camalot
2x 1 Camalot
3x 2 Camalot
2x 3 Camalot
1x 4 Camalot
1x 5 Camalot or #3 Big Bro(optional for OW on crux pitch)
14 alpine draws

The Details:

Don’t forget to sign the board at the Ranger Station.  Depending on the time of year (May and October are best) hiking by 6am is usually the best.  It will be cold in the morning but you will be basking in sun hanging from perfect hand jams by the time you make it to pitch 3. The Black Canyon mantra of “A rope, a rack, and the shirt on your back” certainly holds true.  Light is right.  Hike down the Cruise Gully in your climbing shoes.  It’s not far to the base of the route and then you won’t have to carry extra shoes on the climb.  The rappels in the gully are usually fixed by early May.  Check with the Rangers before you go.  If you are there in the spring, there’s usually a forest of poison ivy at the base.  It can be avoided.  Be careful or wear a Tyvek suit if you are allergic.  Scout the upper pitches from the base and look to make sure you know where the Scenic goes left and the Cruise goes right.  It should be obvious from the base.

The Spraydown:

P1- 5.8  Climb the 5.7 arete then into the slippery groove up through some easy but funky terrain and through the 5.8 hands section to a good stance.  There are a number of old rappel anchors in this section.  You will be simul-climbing a short ways with your partner.  You just linked the first 3 guidebook pitches.

P2- 5.9  Traverse left from the belay into a slightly loose blocky crack system.  The climbing is steep and fun.  Continue up the corner to a small stance below a shallow right facing corner.

P3- 5.10  Climb the thin corner off the belay (its harder than it looks) to a small stance with a perfect hand crack above you.  Fire up the hands passing a small overlap and finishing in some funky peg.

P4- 5.10-  “The Peg Traverse.”  Not as bad as its reputation.  The runouts are on easier terrain and the rock is mostly solid.  Climb up off the belay, clip the fixed nut (there is usually some long slings on it).  Start climbing down where you can eventually place a .5 camalot that protects stepping around onto the ramp.  You can then back clean the piece to protect your partner.  Continue up the ramp to a horn belay with fixed slings.

*When your partner arrives at the belay, have him/her continue to the ledge below the crux pitch and build an anchor.  It’s a short pitch and keeps momentum going rather than swapping gear/leads.

Photo taken from mountainproject.com

P5- 5.10+  Climb the overhanging corner.  It’s steep and sustained but has good holds.  Look for the occasional stem rest and fixed wire.  Exit the roof to the right and catch your breath, then fire up the 5.8 hands and straight into the 5.8 offwidth slot.  Save a big cam for the slot.  Belay on a great ledge off mid sized cams.

P6- 5.8  Climb the blocky crack system on the left.  Some steep climbing leads to easier rambling up and left.  Belay below the big flake off of .5 and .4 camalots.

P7- 5.7  Continue up to the flake and chimney behind it.  Climb up and right to some funky flakes and a good ledge with a bolted belay.

P8- 5.9+  Traverse right off the belay into some flakey rock.  Continue up and right into peg while passing 2 bolts and an old bolt missing a hanger (a little runout).  There is still an exposed stud.  Fire through on some sloping holds to a short corner and small ledge.  Punch up the short but difficult layback into easier terrain. Belay at the good ledge above.

Photo taken from mountainproject.com

P9- 5.9  Traverse left from the belay on flakes into a right facing corner.  Continue up the sustained crack passing an old fixed cam.  Keep climbing on slightly easier ground until you get to a small but good belay stance.  Belay here or continue to the terrace.  Once at the terrace, you can unrope and walk the easy (3^rd class) exposed terrace or do some roped traversing pitches.  Follow the path of least resistance and look for a blocky chimney exit to the rim.  The last short section should be 4^th class and is easily soloed.  High five your partner and be psyched you just did one of the most classic rock climbs in the nation!

An average time for a river to rim ascent by a competent team should be around the 8 or 9 hour mark without any major route finding errors.  The Scenic is great spring preparation for those people looking to climb a summer route on the Diamond such as The Casual Route or Pervertical Sanctuary.  While the Diamond routes aren’t as long they require speed and efficiency to beat the afternoon thunderstorms.  It’s also the “entrance exam” to the other bigger routes in The Black such as the Southern Arete on the Painted Wall or the Flakes on the South Rim.

Oh yeah... I forgot to mention...  Earl Wiggins free soloed the second ascent of the Scenic Cruise in 2 hours wearing Kronhaufers and no chalk bag!

I hope you can enjoy this route as much as I have.

Eric Whewell

Colorado Mountain School Senior Guide

800-836-4008 x3

Lumpy Ridge Climbers Reunion Gathers Climbing Greats and Gives Back

Estes Park has long been a gathering place for top climbers from around the world. Many world renowned climbers settle here, while others can’t resist returning to climb. A unique generational mix of climbers are drawn to Estes Park, including Scott Kimball, who wrote the 1986 Lumpy Ridge and Estes Park Rock Climbs guidebook, stunt rigger Douglas Snively, AMGA ski-mountaineering guide Mark Kelly, and Paige Claassen, one of the top sport climbers in the United States.

The 10^th annual Lumpy Trails day event brought those top climbers, and more, back to Lumpy Ridge. They celebrated over 50 years of climbing on Lumpy with a social gathering at Ed’s, free climbing clinics provided by Colorado Mountain School/Boulder Rock Club, a slide show by Lumpy Ridge pioneer Scott Kimball, and trail building camaraderie on the Sundance climber access trail.

The Saturday slide show was hosted by Greg Sievers and highlighted local climbing legends, including Harry Kent, Billy Westbay, Michael Covington, and others.

Everest ascensionist, and owner of Neptune Mountaineering in Boulder, Gary Neptune observed a CMS offwidth crack clinic taught by Clint Locks on Crack of Fear, Twin Owls. Climbers from the front range, Estes Park, California, Great Britain, and Israel took advantage of crack clinics offered by the CMS guides.

Climbers are known for giving back and following the Access Fund’s “Leave No Trace” ethics. On Oct. 3, 46 volunteers plus National Park Service trail employees constructed 60 rock stairs and installed 90 wooden water bars to prevent erosion on the 500 vertical feet of trail. AMGA heli-ski guide Mark Kelly once again helped on the trail crew and says there were “three times the number of people I’ve seen in the past. Basically all the projects the park service had lined up for us were finished.”

The event gathers support from climbing gear manufacturers, who set up a tent festival in the Lumpy Ridge/Gem Lake parking lot. In 2010 the North Face, Trango, Camp Equipment, LaSportiva, Colorado Mountain School and Neptune Mountaineering took part. Local businesses also support the event, including: Estes Park Mountain Shop, Kind Coffee, Ed's Cantina, Poppy's, the Egg & I, Starbucks, Estes Park Brewery, the Donut Haus, and Catering for All Occasions.

Local climber Greg Sievers and Chris Pruchnic, Front Range Section chair of the American Alpine Club organized the 2010 event. Chris is proud of taking part in the “biggest year yet” of the Lumpy Ridge Climbers Reunion and Trails Day. Look for hard core climbers to gather again to celebrate climbing heritage in fall 2011.

Author Michelle Hurni is a local climber whose book “Core Climbing: Pilates For Climbers” is available at michellehurni.com.

Unseasonably Warm and Dry in Rocky Mountain National Park

Fall alpine climbing has been some of the best in memory. I’d call it fall climbing but other than a few minor exceptions, it was summer—without thunderstorms. It has been dry and warm throughout, particularly since the second half of September. I was lucky enough to have great clients on great climbs.

 With John Pratt, one of the few clients I’ve had who has climbed longer than I have, we climbed Sharkstooth’s Northeast Ridge (5.6), which was the last time I’ve seen rain this fall (but we reached the summit) and Notchtop’s Spiral Route (5.4-5.7), which has always been one of my favorites.

I did get blown down from the Petit Grepon (5.8) with Jim Findlater a week later, but since then I’ve had perfect weather on Longs on two consecutive trips—one on the under-climbed Keyhole Ridge (5.6) with old friend Kevin O’Hara, Sean, and Mark. For Mark, it was his first multi-pitch climb, a fact we kind of discovered in process, a mis-communication but one he was a good enough athlete to pull off.

The next weekend we had the Scwartz family, father, brother, cousins, buddies, kids, and the family priest on the Keyhole, the first alpine climb for a few of them, but all summitted—again, in absolutely perfect weather. Sadly, on the way down, just before we reached the Keyhole, we learned a solo climber had slipped and fallen to his death. What bothers me about the Keyhole is how casually people take it and how brutal the route can be when someone’s careless.

It’s October now and still strangely summer-like at high elevation. I’m hoping to get in a few more alpine rock climbs before the ice tools come out.

Join us before the fall alpine rock season ends. It's going quick!

John Bicknell
CMS Owner and Senior Guide
AMGA Certified Rock and Alpine Guide
jbicknell@totalclimbing.com
800.836.4008
www.totalclimbing.com

Longs Peak: Keyhole Ridge traverse 5.6

This northwest ridge traverse is a must do classic in Rocky Mountain National Park. This route offers magnificent exposure in an alpine setting.  Most of the climbing is clean and fun to travel through.

David Ladd and I had a blast climbing on this classic on Saturday September 5th, 2010. We started at the Longs Peak trailhead at 02:40. We wanted a latter start to thread the needle on the high winds forecasted to periodically decline during the late AM/ early afternoon.  When arriving at the Keyhole we hung out, took in the stunning views and ate a good sized breakfast to fuel us for the adventure that waited ahead.

We started heading up the ramp gaining the technical rock climbing. Very pleasant rock climbing to gain the ridge traverse.

David and I then stepped over to the west to side step towards the crux of the traverse. Carefully pulling and tapping on the blocky holds.

David feeling free on this fun slab pitch looking over the traditional keyhole route on the west side of the ridge.

Below David shows great style climbing through the 5.6 crux in his mountain boots gaining the top of the pitched out climbing.

After all of the spectacular climbing we popped out on this beautiful 2nd class ridge to the summit of Long’s Peak. Once on top David and I celebrated an amazing September day on the summit of one of Colorado's best 14eers.

After a bit of lunch on top, we got ready to descend the North Face rappels back to Chasm View.

After our descent we coiled our ropes and started down the Boulderfield trail back to the Long’s Peak parking area. Another amazing day in Rocky Mountain National Park. Thanks David for the great adventures in the high peaks of Colorado.

Joey Thompson
jthompson@totalclimbing.com
www.totalclimbing.com
800.836.4008

The Diamond!

Clear blue skies, warm temps, and calm winds: a rare forecast for Rocky Mountain National Park, but that’s what Kiley and I found on a recent ascent of the Casual Route on the East Face of Longs Peak (8/26/10).

Our day started at 2am in the Longs Peak Trailhead. Hiking by 2:08am, and a quick pace found us at the east end of Chasm Lake at 4am to fill our water bottles. An hour and 15 minutes later I was leading the first pitch of the North Chimney. Kiley and I cruised the chimney arriving at Broadway just before 6:30am. We ate some food and stacked the ropes and were off 20 minutes later.

I linked pitch 2 with the infamous “Traverse Pitch.” Moving quickly we had climbed the first 3 pitches before 8am. Another short pitch of 5.8 squeeze and we were below one of the best pitches in RMNP, a 200ft 5.9 hands and fingers corner at 13,000ft! Kiley arrived at the belay saying he “got a little pumped.” We rested at the deluxe belay to recharge before the upcoming crux pitch. Stepping out from the belay, the exposure starts to hit. The crux seemed overhanging and strenuous while wearing a loaded pack. Breathing heavily, I arrived at Table Ledge and belayed Kiley.

I stared left from the belay at the blank traversing pitch, guessing it was 5.12. On closer inspection, hand and footholds start to be revealed and the climbing clocks in at 5.8 with 2,000ft of exposure to Mills Glacier below. We climbed one more rising traverse pitch to join Keiner’s and easier ground to the summit of Longs at 14,256ft.

We spent a few minutes at the summit downing some bars and water. Then began our descent down the North Face to the Camel Gully and finally back to Chasm Lake. Thanks to Kiley's fitness level and time spent acclimating, we had a successful ascent of Longs Peak via the Diamond, one of the most sought after alpine walls in the Lower 48.

Eric Whewell
AMGA Rock Guide
Colorado Mountain School

ewhewell@totalclimbing.com

800-836-4008

TotalClimbing.com

Sharkstooth August 15th, 2010

Climbed the Northeast Ridge of Sharkstooth today with CMS client Marty Parris. We had a wonderful day up high, enjoying perfect temps and generally clear skies. August has provided us with a recent and much needed dry-out from the monsoon weather of July. Definitely time to start making a move on the alpine projects for the season. 

Sharkstooth’s NE ridge is located high in the Andrews Glacier cirque, within spitting distance of the ever-popular Petit Grepon and the equally classic Saber. At Grade III, 5.6 and close to 1000’ tall, it’s one of the longest and most dramatic moderate alpine climbs that the Rocky Mountain National Park has to offer. 

Marty and I left CMS at 3am and spent close to 4 hours on the approach to the base of the climbing. Much talus was hopped. We were on top by noon and finished navigating the descent by 2pm. It was a classic day in the high peaks and Marty was a fit and capable partner. The day’s only hangup was my realization that I hadn’t checked/replaced my camera batteries beforehand, resulting in some missed photo opportunities! 

Climbing the sunny rock and exposed arêtes reminded me why August is my favorite month for climbing the alpine rock routes that I think about all year. Still 15 days left!

Mike Soucy

CMS Guide

msoucy@totalclimbing.com

www.totalclimbing.com

800.836.4008

Kieners, Longs Peak--July 20, 2010

Kieners in red (photo from May 2010)

We met at 1am in Estes Park, confirmed we had the needed gear, and drove off into the night.  Steve and David had been in Estes a total of three days, fresh in from New York City, and were acclimatizing as best they could.  Two days before, on the 18th, we had driven up on Trail Ridge Road for easy access to rock, snow, and altitudes exceeding 12,000′.  We’d worked on ice axe and crampon techniques, climbed some steep snow, and then climbed a 400-500′ ridge of technical rock below the Rock Cut.  Kieners isn’t an easy route, demanding a wide variety of skills, but after seeing these guys in action on the 18th, I knew they’d do great.

We began hiking at 1:30am and by 4:30am were gearing up at the base of Lambslide, a 40-45 degree couloir that accesses Broadway Ledge, the middle portion of our route.  Temps that night never reached freezing so Lambslide was still soft but that gave us good edging and steps most of the way up.  Sunrise at 5:40 greeted us on the southern edges of Broadway, where we stopped to soak up the rays, rest our legs, rehydrate, and get a bite to eat.

Broadway is amazing!  The further along you go, the greater the exposure as the Lower East Face drops precipitously away below your heels.  We enjoyed dry conditions all the way across to where the Ledge intersects with Upper Kieners.  Soon we were climbing Longs’ perfect, dry granite in one of the most amazing settings in the Park.  400′ of climbing took us through the crux of the day and into the fatiguing scrambling that would eventually deposit us on Longs’ broad summit.  Perfect, clear, warm, calm weather allowed us to revel in the summit views for nearly 30 minutes.  The Front Range far below was socked in under a cloud all day; to our east the valleys and plains were covered under this blanket and made us seem so much higher.

Then we were off, descending the North Face, another technical route.  Careful scrambling above the 2000′ Diamond brought us to the first of our rappels.  Steve and David cruised through with no problems and we were able to pack away the technical equipment while checking out the stunning vista from Chasm View.  The altitude was finally catching up with Steve and David so we hustled down to the Boulderfield and then to the trailhead.  Our round-trip time was just under 13 hours, an excellent time for any roped team especially for guys from sea level.  The weather couldn’t have been better, the conditions were great, and we had a great day enjoying a fun climb on an amazing peak.

To see more photos from this trip, please visit my personal blog: http://andrewcouncellmountainguide.wordpress.com/   Longs Peak and other mountains in the Park are in awesome shape right now; take advantage of the good conditions and come enjoy Rocky Mountain National Park this summer.  

Andrew Councell

AMGA Rock Guide and year-round Guide for CMS

Rocky Mountain National Park: Conditions Update June 1, 2010

Mt. Lady Washington and Martha

For the past two days I’ve been climbing some ultra classic alpine routes in the Notchtop drainage and the Longs Peak cirque. Other than huge cornices over the Ptarmigan Fingers and some big wet avalanche debris (now pretty old), alpine conditions are as good as I’ve seen them. Over the two days we found little post-holing even by mid-afternoon. All the classics (Dreamweaver, Flying Duchman, Martha, Ptarmigans, Spiral etc..) look in great shape. The Ptarmigans look like great climbing or skiing but anyone in the area really has to stay out from under the cornices.

Mt. Meeker and The Loft

Each day we found great coverage and firm snow for skinning or hiking any approach. Now is the time to get in snow climbing ascents and ski mountaineering decents.

Longs Peak

Get into Rocky Mountain National Park now. Conditions are ideal!
Hope to see you on one of our courses or guided climbs soon. 

John Bicknell
CMS Senior Guide
jbicknell@totalclimbing.com
www.totalclimbing.com

Ski descent of Longs Peak's North Face: May 27th, 2010

Given the great weather and abundance of snow in Rocky Mountain National Park a good friend and I decided it would be the perfect day to ski the North Face of Longs Peak.  We had a solid freeze the night before. So the snow was pretty frozen and firm climbing at 6 am. The approach went quick and we were above treeline before long. Currently there is a solid snow pack from the Boulderfieled to the top of the North Face. The Chasm View area is under a big drift which made travel quick and enjoyable.

Along the way, there were signs of heavy melt with reminisce of older debris, mostly involved with the new/old interface. We found mild temps and moderate winds with broken skies on the summit at 9am. It was the perfect morning to be on top of RMNP's 14eer.  The snow was chalky on the descent. Unfortunately, we didn't get the buttery corn that we were looking for but fun nonetheless. We noticed that there are only two eye bolts showing at the moment but I'm sure this will change as warmer temps continue to rapidly melt the existing snow.

All in all, the entire route is mostly skiable to the parking lot. We only had to walk from the .5 mile sign to the car. It's a great time for ski mountaineering in RMNP. Get out and get after it! Give the Colorado Mountain School a call if you're looking for a guide and keep checking back in with our blog for updates throughout the spring.

Joey Thompson
CMS Guide
AMGA Certified Rock Guide
jthompson@totalclimbing.com
www.totalclimbing.com
800.836.4008

Skiing Update from Rocky Mountain National Park, CO April 9th, 2010

Today was a great day of skiing in Rocky Mountain National Park. We skied the Elevator shaft on the southeast face of Halletts Peak. It was awesome. The skin in was quick, the boot packing was not the best, but the skiing was phenomenal. It was worth very step we climbed and offered some of the best skiing I've found all season. The aspect we skied was south/south east and the snow was consolidated and up to knee deep for boot packing. 

When skiing we never punched through and were able to ski with confidence. The temps were in the low 40's at 12'000 feet. Wild!

It will only be getting better and firmer as we get into a more spring like weather pattern. At the end of the day we skied the dream chutes and again found good soft conditions. I dont recommend skiing or climb on anything north facing for right now. We'll keep the blog updated as we move through this transitional season.

It's time to get out and enjoy the spring skiing. Join us on one of our weekly ski outings.
Enjoy and stay safe,

Mike Alkaitis
CMS Senior Guide
malkaitis@totalclimbing.com
www.totalclimbing.com

Alpine Climbing in RMNP March 12th, 2010

We received a little new snow Thursday night (~1") but with strong winds so there was substantial loading in the alpine on lee and crossloaded aspects. Myself and two guests, Doug and CW, were planning on climbing the Dragontail Couloir (DTC) on the south side of Flattop Mountain. Given the conditions I knew this objective was tentatively out. We went it to check out the objective and consider other alternatives. While while gearing up the DTC sluffed heavily 3-4 times in 10-15 minutes. So we decided on a great looking alternative directly to the right of the DTC. It was more solar, had no new loading, and was a route I'd never climbed before.


We were treated to awesome climbing conditions! Perfect cramponing took us up the first 500' of pitched climbing on mid-40 degree snow. A mediocre pitch took us to the mouth of a tiny couloir, much narrower than the DTC (3-6' wide vs. 30' wide) with a little WI/mixed (WI3, M3) section at the top that gained very steep snow (55-degrees, maybe steeper?) and a final ramp that deposited us on Flattop's East Face. In total, we did 8 full pitches and a small one at the end.



I'd seen this route but had never done it before. It's not listed in any guide book or on any of the online resources. I'm sure we weren't the first to climb it but it's always fun to check out new terrain. It's a great DTC alternative. Doug and CW had an awesome day (saying, "This is the best day I've ever had in the mountains"), we had awesome, windless weather, great climbing conditions, in the sun, and on a slightly more technical and sustained route. It's definitely a route I'll be steering people towards in the future. I took 5 small-to-medium cams, a small rack of random nuts, 3 pins, and one 70-meter rope...and used it all. I had a great time exploring new terrain with these guys and we had an amazing day in RMNP.


I hope to climb with you soon in Rocky Mountain National Park. We've got countless options for adventure. Join us this spring!

Andrew Councell
CMS Guide
acouncell@totalclimbing.com
800.836.4008
www.totalclimbing.com