I linked pitch 2 with the infamous “Traverse Pitch.” Moving quickly we had climbed the first 3 pitches before 8am. Another short pitch of 5.8 squeeze and we were below one of the best pitches in RMNP, a 200ft 5.9 hands and fingers corner at 13,000ft! Kiley arrived at the belay saying he “got a little pumped.” We rested at the deluxe belay to recharge before the upcoming crux pitch. Stepping out from the belay, the exposure starts to hit. The crux seemed overhanging and strenuous while wearing a loaded pack. Breathing heavily, I arrived at Table Ledge and belayed Kiley.
I stared left from the belay at the blank traversing pitch, guessing it was 5.12. On closer inspection, hand and footholds start to be revealed and the climbing clocks in at 5.8 with 2,000ft of exposure to Mills Glacier below. We climbed one more rising traverse pitch to join Keiner’s and easier ground to the summit of Longs at 14,256ft.
AMGA Rock Guide
Colorado Mountain School