Backcountry Outing in RMNP March 26th, 2010

CMS guide, Mike Alkaitis, and Lance Loveday got after it last Friday in Rocky Mountain National Park. With a string of Front Range storms the Park has been amazing for backcountry skiing/boarding and it's going to keep getting better as we head into April. Join us soon before summer takes over and all the turns are gone. We're getting out every week.

Colorado Mountain School
800.836.4008
www.totalclimbing.com

Avalanche Rescue Survey: Have You Been “In Combat?”

Have you ever used a transceiver or shovel to attempt an avalanche rescue? Have you ever deployed an an airbag or Avalung “in combat?” Backcountry Access (BCA) is taking our ongoing research into the blogosphere. We want to hear from people who have had to use their avi gear for real. For purposes of our research, it doesn’t matter whether or not the device was used successfully—or whether the incident was reported. No worries: we won’t publish your name if you don’t want us to. This research will be used in our ongoing product development efforts. It might also be used in papers published in journals and on our website, at http://www.backcountryaccess.com/research .

If you’re interested, please complete this survey.
If you haven't been involved in an avalanche but know someone who has, please pass it along to them.

You may also contact Bruce Edgerly at (303)417-1345 (x101) or edge@backcountryaccess.com. We will honor any requests to remain anonymous.

If you provide us with your personal information, then we will reward you with BCA schwag (hat, T-shirts, etc.). If we use your personal anecdotes in published materials, then we will update your beacon, shovel, probe or backpack to the latest BCA model.

BRC Routesetter Matt Wilder: One of Climbing's "Players"

Quiet Crusher: Matt Wilder

(article by Leah Miller, photo by Andy Mann)

"I don't think of myself as an adrenaline seeker; the rock inspires me," says Matt Wilder of his November 2009 first ascent of Cheating Reality (5.14a R) on the monolithic Devil's Thumb formation near Boulder Colorado. "It's about taking this high thing that could be dangerous and making it conducive to my abilities." Originally from Connecticut, Wilder, 31, today lives in Boulder, where he's working toward his PhD in Computer science... Check out the rest of the story at Climbing.com.

Alpine Climbing in RMNP March 12th, 2010

We received a little new snow Thursday night (~1") but with strong winds so there was substantial loading in the alpine on lee and crossloaded aspects. Myself and two guests, Doug and CW, were planning on climbing the Dragontail Couloir (DTC) on the south side of Flattop Mountain. Given the conditions I knew this objective was tentatively out. We went it to check out the objective and consider other alternatives. While while gearing up the DTC sluffed heavily 3-4 times in 10-15 minutes. So we decided on a great looking alternative directly to the right of the DTC. It was more solar, had no new loading, and was a route I'd never climbed before.


We were treated to awesome climbing conditions! Perfect cramponing took us up the first 500' of pitched climbing on mid-40 degree snow. A mediocre pitch took us to the mouth of a tiny couloir, much narrower than the DTC (3-6' wide vs. 30' wide) with a little WI/mixed (WI3, M3) section at the top that gained very steep snow (55-degrees, maybe steeper?) and a final ramp that deposited us on Flattop's East Face. In total, we did 8 full pitches and a small one at the end.



I'd seen this route but had never done it before. It's not listed in any guide book or on any of the online resources. I'm sure we weren't the first to climb it but it's always fun to check out new terrain. It's a great DTC alternative. Doug and CW had an awesome day (saying, "This is the best day I've ever had in the mountains"), we had awesome, windless weather, great climbing conditions, in the sun, and on a slightly more technical and sustained route. It's definitely a route I'll be steering people towards in the future. I took 5 small-to-medium cams, a small rack of random nuts, 3 pins, and one 70-meter rope...and used it all. I had a great time exploring new terrain with these guys and we had an amazing day in RMNP.


I hope to climb with you soon in Rocky Mountain National Park. We've got countless options for adventure. Join us this spring!

Andrew Councell
CMS Guide
acouncell@totalclimbing.com
800.836.4008
www.totalclimbing.com

Burp Test with CMS guide Joey Thompson

CMS guide, Joey Thompson, shows us a great snow stability test. Learn more in one of CMS's avalanche training courses this winter. It's a great time to take the training. Check out our full course listing at: http://www.totalclimbing.com/page.php?pname=climbing/outdoor/avalanche

Colorado Mountain School
www.totalclimbing.com
800.836.4008

Hop Turn Ski Clinic with Mike Alkaitis

CMS guide, Mike Alkaitis, gives some great tips on Hop Turns. A must for backcountry skiing and steep ski technique. For more ski training, join one of our weekly ski outings in Rocky Mountain National Park.

Colorado Mountain School
www.totalclimbing.com
800.836.4008