Jonathan Siegrist FAs His Hardest Line to Date!

Le Reve - Jonathan Siegrist from MAXIM DYNAMIC ROPES on Vimeo.

Weekly Wednesday Blog Post: The Purple Route and the Green Route

Well, the snow is flying, the ice is forming and the sweet days of 60 degrees and sunny are still happening in the Front Range.

Two days ago I climbed in Eldo, yesterday I skied and today I’m climbing in Eldo again. Friday I’ll be climbing in Boulder Canyon, we have ski guide training coming up and our first avalanche course of the season is just around the corner. Life is good.

But what of the purple and green routes you ask? Well gym climbing season is also kicking into high gear.

Each Thursday I take a break from the elements and get into the Boulder Rock Club for some serious plastic pulling with regular clients Tom Stocker and Becky Browning.

Just like last winter, we will spend from now until the snow is gone training for next year’s main rock climbing season. Working on technique, strength, endurance and strategy we also have a great time for a couple of hours out of our busy week. This week Tom’s son Thad also joined us.

Slopers and steeps were the main focus this week with progress made by all. We worked slopers in the bouldering area and the steep moves on full length routes focusing on body position to increase reach while decreasing arm fatigue. Although I have to admit, we also worked a bit on overhanging sloper problems!

Training in the gym can be a great way to hit the ground running (I mean hit the rock sending!) in the spring.  I still have a free hour or two on Thursday afternoons, care to join me?

Mark Hammond
Head Guide, Colorado Mountain School
800-836-4008

BRC Extends Summer Special!

Our Summer Special has been such a hit that we've decided to extend the offer for one more week and throw in a bonus...  Come in by July 11th, and get a 3 month membership for just $150 and you'll be entered to win a pair of La Sportiva climbing shoes of your choice.  That's unlimited climbing, free group fitness, free yoga, free massages, guest privileges, course discounts, 1 free day per month at Rock'n & Jam'n and The Spot, and an entry in the La Sportiva raffle - all at a rate of just $1.62 per day!  We keep fresh routes on insane terrain, 9 autobelays on various angles, and cool comfy temps.  See ya at the BRC!

Team BRC Crushes Divisional Championships!

     This past weekend Team BRC had an outstanding performance at the USAC Divisional Championships hosted by Movement Climbing and Fitness here in Boulder, Colorado. After having won the Regional Championships in New Mexico, we had some best ever performances by many of our team members.

     Matty Hong placed 1st in Boys Junior with team mate Dallas Milburn taking a strong 3rd place in Sport and 2nd place in Speed. Elly Czajkowski finished 2nd in Girls Junior for Sport and 2nd in Speed. Mica Hartman turned in one of her best performances ever in a major event with a 3rd place finish in Sport in Girls A. Abby Czajkowski earned her invitation for nationals placing 1st in Speed and 4th in Sport in Girls C. Remi Arata, a newcomer to competition is a having a great season after earning his Nationals invitation by placing 6th in Sport and 4th in Speed in Boys B. Mark Benz, who just recently returned to the US after doing volunteer work in Haiti, placed 9th in Sport for Boys A. Spencer Platt has had a great first season of competition placing 9th in Sport and 6th in Speed in Boys C.

     We couldn't be more proud of our team!  Next stop: USAC National Championships in Atlanta!

CMS & BRC Party in Eldo

The Colorado Mountain School kicks off its summer season with a Guides' Meeting followed by some climbing at one of our local crags. It's always a great opportunity to catch up with everyone, discuss ideas and get our stoke for the big and busy season ahead. We had 18 guides in attendance while a few were unable to make it due to working in the field (can't turn down a day of climbing for a meeting inside). After we cranked through the business it was time for some cragging in Eldorado Canyon. Gotta love an afternoon session in Eldo!

In conjunction, we held our Boulder Rock Club staff party.  It was a great time to thank the staff for all the hard work this past winter.  Thank you to all BRC members for allowing us to shut the doors and take an afternoon off to go climbing.  As always, it's fun to get the BRC and CMS crew together for some climbing and BBQ.  Finally, a huge thank you to all the staff that makes both the Boulder Rock Club and Colorado Mountain School one of the best places to work in Colorado - you're awesome, keep up the great work!

Cheers!

Join Us June 12th and Help Fight Ovarian Cancer: HERA Climb 4 Life 2010

Climb, hike, and fight ovarian cancer one foot at a time!  Raise funds and awareness for ovarian cancer the weekend of June 11 & 12. Presented by REI, Boulder Rock Club and Colorado Mountain School, the hiking trail options vary in length and technical challenge, while the crag options provide a world-class rock climbing experience for participants at every ability level, even those who have never climbed before.

New this year are the skills clinics taught by pros, such as bouldering with Jason Kehl & Olivia Hsu, and wilderness first aid basics with AC Robertson.   The early registration fee is only $60 and
also includes yoga, massage, breakfast, dinner, goodie bag, gear giveaway entry, parties, and more!

Other sponsors & gear donors include: Avery Brewing Company, Black Diamond, BlueWater Ropes, Marmot, Mammut, ACOPA, Timbuk2, Stonewear Designs, Petzl, Mountain Khaki's, Sigg, Keen, The Alpine Training Center, and Lululemon Athletica.

Fundraising for HERA’s programs for ovarian cancer research grants and education and awareness initiatives is the cornerstone of the Climb for Life events, and we encourage everyone to raise at least $250. As an added incentive, for every $100 you raise for HERA between March 11-June 11, 2010, you will receive one additional entry into the gear giveaway. Awesome prizes will also be awarded to the top 3 individual fundraisers and the top fundraising team.

For more information and registration go to: HERA

Boulder Rock Club Crew Gets Outside

Tom has been an instructor at the BRC for 7 years (he started when he was 15), but has never led a climb outdoors. Tom is an accomplished indoor climber and plenty strong, but never acquired the skills needed. We practiced at the BRC in the morning working on how to clip draws, building safe anchors, and cleaning routes. That afternoon we went to the Riviera and Tom safely led 4 climbs and cleaned all the anchors. He even lead a 5.10!

BRC Hours Staying The Same!

We no longer will be cutting back our summer hours.  During the week we open at 6:00am three days a week and 8:00am two days a week.  Escape that summer heat with some great routes and cool air conditioning inside the Boulder Rock Club.

BRC Hours of Operation (Year Round):

Mon: 8:00 am – 10:00 pm
Tues, Wed, Thurs: 6:00 am – 11:00 pm
Fri: 8:00 am – 11:00 pm
Sat, Sun: 10:00 am – 8:00 pm

Boulder Rock Club Jr. Team: Red River Gorge

Having left the Red River Gorge in late October in 2009, I left with a strong resolve to return stronger and fitter than before. Finalizing a Spring Break trip with the Boulder Rock Club Jr. Team, I started planning my pre-Red training regimen. I spent most of the winter bouldering indoors and out and finished with a two week rest phase to heal properly before torturing myself back into route climbing shape for the Red, Spring 2010.

Having experienced one of the worst winters ever to climb outside in Boulder, Colorado, my training became an indoor endeavor. Unfortunately for me, dry winter air and my naturally dry skin kept me from training nearly as much as I wanted to. Plus the two-week cold/sinus infection made things even worse, but my list of excuses of why my trip could be a weak showing was already a page long. I did manage a couple of good workouts that I think helped my trip. First of all I knew how steep and long the Red was and how short the BRC was relative to it. I stayed mostly on our steep Tsunami and tried to link as many 5.12’s together as possible (not that many). Secondly, I managed to stay on our bouldering wall for as long as possible. I would try to climb, literally, in circles. I did not manage too many circles. It did pay off, I think.  Finally, I managed a few of Chris Wall’s workouts at the BRC that crushed my will to live as well as my muscles and lungs.

The tick list: Every climber has got one. This trip to the Red was no different. Between my wife, Jen, 4 Jr. Team members, and me our tick list was getting huge. We had just a week of climbing, so I was planning 5, 6 days on? Kids heal quickly. They don’t need to rest right?  Unfortunately or fortunately for us, rain happens in Kentucky. We did manage a few rest days due to rain, but we also managed some great climbing days. The list goes like:

Day One: Funk Rock City. Manic Impression 10a. onsighted by Mica. Flashed by Adam. Classic 12c Orange Juice. Sent by Dallas, Stefan, and Tony.  Hardcore Jollies 12a. onsighted by Tony, flashed by Dallas.

Day Two: Curbside and Purgatory. Wildfire 12a. onsighted by Dallas, flashed by Stefan and Tony. Sent by Mica. Paradise Lost 13b. flashed by Dallas.

Day Three: Dark Side and Solar Collector. Budha Hole 12a. onsighted by Tony, flashed by Dallas and Stefan. The Force 13a. Flashed by Dallas. Sent by Tony. Tuskan Raider 12d. Flashed by Dallas and Sean Raboutou. Sent by Stefan.  Shanghai 12d. Onsighted by Robyn Raboutou. Sent by Sean Raboutou.

Day Four: Roadside Crag.  Ro Shampo 12a. Onsighted by Dallas. Flashed by Stefan. Strevels Gets in Shape 12b. Onsighted by Dallas. Sent by Dallas and Mica. Wild Gift 12c. Onsighted by Dallas. Sent by Stefan

Day Five: Drive By Crag and the Motherlode. Make a Wish 10c. Flashed by Adam. Check Your Grip 12a. Onsighted by Dallas and flashed by Stefan. 40 Ounces of Justice 13a. Onsighted by Tony. Flashed by Dallas. Snooker 13a. Flashed by Tony. Sent by Dallas. Chain Saw Massacre 12a. Sent by Stefan.

All in all, the team had a great trip. Huge factors to that are staying in a cabin, which I recommend to anyone and everyone planning a trip to the Red. Camping in the rain after a day of climbing in the rain does not equate to happy children or adults for that matter. Second would be the two-hour flight to Cincinnati rather than the two-day drive across country from Boulder to Slade. The kids returned to the Boulder Rock Club re-psyched to climb on ropes and getting ready for the upcoming sport climbing series. Next on our list for summer trips; sport climbing in Kalymnos, Greece. Gotta start training for than soon…

Tony Yao
Head Route Setter & Jr Team Coach
Boulder Rock Club
tyao@totalclimbing.com
800-836-4008

New Free Classes for Members with Chris Wall

Starting Monday, April 12th: NEW CLASSES

Climb-Fit: Basics - Mondays 7pm-8pm
This class is an hour long on the wall conditioning class to help you increase your ability to concentrate when your stamina and endurance are put to the test! This is Chris’s entry level Climb-Fit class, and is a must for anyone wanting to take their climbing training seriously.
Limit 8 people.

Climb-Fit: The Rapture - Thursdays 7am-8:30am
A combination of conditioning and climbing, this class is the ultimate hybrid of conditioning and climbing. If you want to feel indestructible, this class will break you down and put you back together better, stronger, and more resilient than you’ve ever been before.
Limit 12 people.

Weight Lifting Techniques - Tuesdays & Thursdays 12pm-1pm
These hour long sessions will give you to opportunity to get tips, techniques, and cross training ideas from one of the most knowledgeable and experienced climbing trainers in the country.


DON’T FORGET THE ALREADY EXISTING “CRY IN THE DOJO” SERIES
These classes are circuit conditioning classes for all levels of ability. If you are new to the program, we recommend starting at Level 1 or 1.5.

Enter the Dragon: Level 1 Mondays 12pm-1pm,

So You Think You’re a Dragon?: Level 1.5 Wednesdays 12pm-1pm, NEW TIME Wednesdays 6pm-7pm

Cry in the Dojo: Level 2 Tuesdays 5:30pm-6:30pm

The Spartan 300: Level 3 Tuesdays 7:30am-8:30am, Thursdays 5:30pm-6:30pm

BRC Routesetter Matt Wilder: One of Climbing's "Players"

Quiet Crusher: Matt Wilder

(article by Leah Miller, photo by Andy Mann)

"I don't think of myself as an adrenaline seeker; the rock inspires me," says Matt Wilder of his November 2009 first ascent of Cheating Reality (5.14a R) on the monolithic Devil's Thumb formation near Boulder Colorado. "It's about taking this high thing that could be dangerous and making it conducive to my abilities." Originally from Connecticut, Wilder, 31, today lives in Boulder, where he's working toward his PhD in Computer science... Check out the rest of the story at Climbing.com.

JStar: Benefits of training at the Boulder Rock Club

PM's new route at the Boulder Rock Club 2/9/10

Boulder Rock Club has an Auto Belay

Boulder Rock Club route setter, Ruckus, gives us the low low on a few new routes and the recently installed auto belay. Yes, the auto belay is back at the Boulder Rock Club.
Come check out the new routes each week at the BRC.

Boulder Rock Club
www.totalclimbing.com
303.447.2804

New Routes at the Boulder Rock Club 2/1/10

BRC route setter, Jonathan Siegrist (AKA J Star), talks about one of his new routes. The route setters have put up a bunch of new routes this week. Come check 'em out and keep tuning in for more route beta.

Boulder Rock Club
www.totalclimbing.com
303.447.2804

Birthday Parties at the Boulder Rock Club

Birthday Parties at the BRC rock! Thanks Olivia and Davis!
Give us a call to book your next celebration.
800-836-4008
www.totalclimbing.com

American Bouldering Series Youth Regional Championships

Saturday January 16^th, the Boulder Rock Club hosted the American Bouldering Series (ABS) Youth Regional Championships. We were excited to open our doors and our facility to the climbing community for this amazing event. The best young climbers from Colorado, Wyoming, Utah, New Mexico, and Arizona packed the house with 130 registered competitors.

The morning began with a qualifying round followed by an exciting final. Everyone at the Boulder Rock Club is proud of Team BRC/ABC. The kids crushed the routes and won the Team Title by a large margin. Team BRC/ABC has 17 team members receiving an invitation to Nationals that will be held mid February at Sportrock in Alexandria, Virginia. We wish all the competitors the best of luck!

Team Tile: Team BRC/ABC

Team BRC/ABC members qualifying for Nationals

Female Youth D:

• Brooke Raboutou
• Ivey Todd
• Stella Noble

Male Youth D:

• Timmy Dolan
• Joe Goodacre
• Ethan Kruteck
• Finn Stack

Female Youth C:

• Margo Hayes
• Isabelle Goodacre
• Abigail Czajkowski

Male Youth C:

• Shawn Raboutou
• Pierce McCrerey

Female Youth B:

• Laurel Todd

Female Youth A:

• Katelyn Hudspeth

Male Youth A:

• Mark Benz

Female Junior:

• Ellyssa Czajkowski
• Chauncenia Cox

Male Junior:

• Dallas Milburn

Shawn Raboutou receiving his 1st Place and Invitation to Nationals

Boulder Rock Club: Membership Raffle Winners!

Doug Cook with his new La Sportiva Solutions and a huge smile!

Congratulations to the following winners of our quarterly raffle:

Alise Arata – Black Diamond harness
Doug Cook – La Sportiva Solutions
Richard Fox – 60m Sterling rope
Tim Plummer – Marmot Tempo Jacket

Come in and purchase either a 4, 6 or 12 month membership between now and April 1st in order to be entered in to the next raffle. Prizes include a Black Diamond harness, a pair of La Sportiva climbing shoes, a Sterling Rope, or a Marmot jacket. The next raffle is happening on April 1st so come in and get your membership to be eligible to win these fabulous prizes! Thank you members for being part of the BRC!

Tim Plummer sporting his new Marmot Tempo jacket - Congrats Tim!

MSA Auto Belay Update 12/8/09

On Friday, December 4th, we received notice from MSA regarding the Redpoint Auto Belay Descenders. Unfortunately, MSA is discontinuing their climbing safety product line and will no longer offer or service their auto belay devices (please see full notice from MSA below).

We are actively pursuing other options for the BRC. We recognize the auto belays are an important tool for many of our members and visitors. At this time, it’s hard to say when we will have a replacement but we assure you we are looking into the best options.

In the mean time, we have set up a few great resources for you to find a partner. They are:

1) Partner sign up sheet at the front desk: When you enter the BRC ask the front desk to sign up for a partner. We will do our best to match you up with another member who is also looking for a climbing partner.

2) Partner Board: We’ve added a “Looking for Partners” board in the gym. It’s a great way to find new climbing partners. Check it out next time you’re in the gym

3) Facebook Discussion Board: On the BRC/CMS Facebook page under “Discussion Board” you can post that you’re looking for a partner. Please include when you plan to climb, time, and climbing ability (TR, Lead, etc..). Partner Finder

4) Discounted Rate for a belayer. You can hire a belayer for $20 per hour. Just call the BRC and we’ll get it booked for your next visit to the gym

The BRC staff appreciates your continued business and patience while we resolve this issue. If you have any questions please contact us. We look forward to seeing you at the BRC soon.

MSA Notice:

As you are already aware, MSA issued a Stop-Use Notice on Redpoint and Auto-Belay Descenders on October 14, 2009 and a subsequent Stop-Use Update on November 3, 2009. The Stop-Use Notices were emailed and mailed to all Repoint and affected Auto-Belay purchasers that MSA has on record. After conducting a thorough investigation, MSA is planning to discontinue the Redpoint Descender.

MSA did not make this decision lightly, and we regret any inconvenience this action may cause. As you are aware, there are alternative belay systems available from other manufactures. While we regret having to take this action, the overriding need to ensure the safety of all those using our product on recreational climbing walls is our highest priority. With this action, MSA is effectively exiting the recreational market for climbing wall auto-belay systems. MSA will, however, continue to focus on and serve the industrial fall protection market, as we have done since 1930. In short, MSA is committed to the industrial fall protection market and will continue to serve our customers there with the most dependable industrial fall protection system available today.

We are developing a reimbursement program for eligible Redpoint and Auto-Belay Descenders. Our program plans are currently being reviewed by the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC). Following the CPSC review, we plan to issue a recall notice to owners and distributors of the affected products, including instructions for the return of units.

It is important that the Stop-Use remain in effect. Please do not use any Redpoint Descender of affected Auto-Belay Descender.

As a reminder, the Stop-Use Notice applies to the following descender units:

• All Redpoint Descenders (part number 10024873, 10027646, and 10027798)
• Auto-Belay Descenders (part number 100211806) manufactured or last serviced on or after June 30, 2000.
  

Very truly yours,

Charles J Seibel, Jr.
Manager of Product Safety
MSA North America

AUTO BELAY UPDATE! Nov 4th, 2009

Below is a statement from MSA, the manufacture of the Auto Belay Descenders. The BRC staff is sorry for any inconvenience this has caused and thank you for your continued patience. We'll keep you updated as we find out more.

Redpoint® & Auto-Belay Descenders
Stop-Use Notice Update
November 3, 2009

As you are already aware, MSA issued a Stop Use Notice on Redpoint and Auto-Belay Descenders on October 14, 2009. The Stop Use Notice was emailed and mailed to all Redpoint and affected Auto-Belay purchasers that MSA has on record. In addition, this notice has been circulated via the Internet through climbing wall organizations and social networking sites, and it has been posted on the MSA website. We have made every effort to ensure that all users of the Redpoint and Auto-Belay Descenders have been notified of this situation.

We understand the difficulties and challenges that our Stop Use Notice creates for owners of climbing walls and/or climbing gyms, and we regret any inconvenience that users may experience as a result of this equipment being out of service. However, user safety is our primary concern.

Both units involved in the reported accelerated descents, specified in the recent Stop Use notice, have been returned to us for evaluation. Our review discovered no evidence of any physical damage that would have affected the rate of descent. Over the past two weeks, we have conducted a thorough investigation and several key performance tests in attempt to pinpoint the root cause of the reported accelerated descents. We have dimensionally checked the brakes, induced stresses on the brakes and one-way bearing in several ways, and conducted a dimensional and chemical analysis of the bearing; however, to date, our testing has not produced an accelerated descent. Bearings have been sent to the bearing manufacturer for further independent analysis, and we are currently awaiting a report. We are also conducting additional tests to determine the effect of vibration on the performance of the bearing. We expect to have the results of these tests in approximately one week. It is important that the Stop Use remain in effect. Please do not use any Redpoint Descender or affected Auto-Belay Descender until advised by MSA. As a reminder, the Stop Use Notice applies to the following descender units:
• All Redpoint Descenders (part numbers 10024873, 10027646, and 10027798)
regardless of the date the unit was manufactured or last serviced,
• Auto-Belay Descenders (part number 10021806) manufactured or last serviced on
or after June 30, 2000.

Rest assured we are making every effort to complete our investigation as quickly as possible and, more importantly, provide you with an effective and safe resolution to this matter.

As additional information becomes available, we will be sure to communicate it to you in a timely fashion. We appreciate your patience and understanding as we work to provide you with the answers you need.

If you have any questions, please contact MSA Customer Service in North America at 1-800-MSA-2222 or your nearest MSA affiliate listed at www.MSAnet.com.

Very truly yours,
Charles J. Seibel, Jr.
Manager of Product Safety