Showing posts with label Ice Climbing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ice Climbing. Show all posts

Wednesday, January 16, 2013

Black Diamond Cobra - Guide Review

Black Diamond Cobra Ice Tools
The Black Diamond Cobras are my favorite ice tools on the market. They have the craftsmanship of a Ferrari and the burl of an eighteen wheel truck. I have used these tools almost exclusively for the last four seasons on a variety of objectives. They climb rock well and excel on ice.

The Cobras are a precision instrument. They have the greatest clearance of any Black Diamond Tools without sacrificing balance. Black Diamond has made these with a lightweight Carbon Fiber Shaft to provide damp, accurate swings. They feature a modular head design, so you can easily put on the adze when you are in the mountains and switch out to dueling hammers for your drytooling enjoyment.

Photo by Karsten Delap

After years of abuse, these tools are still swinging great; a testament to the durability of the tool. The Cobras are a great tool for anything from the Ouray Ice Park to the North Buttress of Mount Hunter!



Eric Whewell
CMS Senior Guide
AMGA Certified Rock & Alpine Guide
www.totalclimbing.com
1.800.836.4008



Thursday, December 6, 2012

Guide Gear Review: Black Diamond Spinner Leash

Mike Lewis utilizing the BD Spinner Leash on All Mixed Up
in Rocky Mountain National Park - Photo by Rainbow Weinstock
 
There I was...climbing the second pitch of Goldrush…a four pitch WI5 route in the Silverton area of Colorado. I had finished the crux section of the pitch and placed one of my ice tools on my left shoulder so I could traverse right through some steep snow and ice. I leaned forward to look at my feet and suddenly the ice tool slipped from my shoulder. I could not respond quickly enough to save my tool from plummeting 350' to the plot of snow at the base of the route. Luckily, my partner was tucked back in a corner at the anchor below and out of the way of my cascading tool. I finished the pitch with one tool and rappelled off the climb once my partner got to the top of the second pitch.

There I was...climbing solo on the Direct Polish Glacier on Aconcagua in Argentina. The crux consists of about 3,000' of Alpine Ice 3 without ledges or breaks in the angle. Dropping an ice tool in this situation is not an option. I tied some cordellette to the bottom of my tools and clipped this into my harness. I felt reassured and much safer knowing that I could not drop my ice tools this time. Now enter the Black Diamond Spinner Leash.



 BD Spinner Leash

The Spinner Leash is standard gear for me when climbing ice. Whether it is ice-cragging or multi-pitch alpine ice - I am using the Spinner Leash. These days many folks are going “leashless” in order to have more freedom of movement and natural motion. I have found that with the Spinner Leash I can still have the freedom of movement I desire but the peace of my mind that I am not going to drop a tool mid climb.


I have found that the Spinner Leash rarely gets in the way: in fact, most of the time I forget it is attached. I can switch my tools from hand to hand and the swivel keeps the leashes organized. The stretchy bungee inside the black webbing keeps slack from building up that would accumulate if you used a cordalette leash. The carabiners that clip into the bottom of the tools are small enough that they do not get in the way.
 
Mike ready to climb with the BD Spinner Leash
 
There are a few points to be mindful of when using the Spinner Leash. When following a leader, the cords can get wrapped around the climbing rope. Some intention in placement and organization when moving from one stick to the next helps mitigate this. Also, the carabineers that clip into the bottom of the tool have gates that do not latch onto the tip of the carabiner - there is no hook to catch the wiregate. The carabiner once popped off my tool at a belay because the wiregate got slightly loaded at an angle. Lastly, the carabiners for the Spinner Leash may not clip into helpful places on some ergonomic tools as the alignment may put the carabiners right where your hand wants to go. These are the only things I have found unperfected by the Spinner Leash.

Overall, I REALLY like the Spinner Leash and recommend it to any ice or alpine climber, beginner to expert. Why have the anxiety of dropping your tools when you can have the safety of a leash that does not compromise the freedom of going leashless? Enjoy!

Have fun and be safe out there,

Mike


AMGA Certified Rock Guide
Colorado Mountain School Mountain Guide
1.800.836.4008
 
 
 


Tuesday, November 13, 2012

Guide Gear Review: Black Diamond Vector Helmet Review


I have long awaited the arrival of the new Black Diamond Vector Helmet. I like to carry as little weight up the hill as possible and since my LG/XL Vector weighs in at a trim 8.5 ounces (SM/MD 8.1 ounces) I have no excuse to leave my helmet at home.
 
the new Vector from blackdiamondequipment.com
 
There are lots of technical components to the Vector: in-mold headlamp clips, ratcheting helmet adjustment, tuck away suspension (for packing), lots of ventilation, and cold-molded EPS foam with polycarbonate shell.  On top of all these technical points, the Vector passes the all-day comfort test with ease.

A good friend and regular climbing partner of mine named Juan laid it out for me a few weeks ago: he said, “Mike, you are to always bring your helmet for any projects in Eldo.” Juan and I had been working on the climb “Surf’s Up.” Sure enough the next time we went out I brought the Vector along to test-drive. Bottom line: we both dug it.

 
Juan rockin the Vector Helmet in Eldo
 
The long and short is this: the Vector is a lightweight helmet that is comfortable, looks good, packs easily and most importantly is going to protect your domepiece.  Fear not ladies, there is also a Women's Model.
 
Have fun and be safe out there.
 

CMS Senior Guide
Colorado Mountain School
1.800.836.4008
totalclimbing.com

Wednesday, November 7, 2012

Conditions Pictures from RMNP

Winter is making it's way! Here are a few shots from the past week that CMS Guides Mike Lewis and Joey Thompson took from the field.


All Mixed Up is IN and in great condition from bottom to top. Mike and Joey got after it yesterday November 6, 2012. Check out these pics from the route:



All Mixed Up on the hike in, 11/6/2012
Mike Lewis on the second pitch of All Mixed Up - 11/6/2012







Mike Lewis mid-way on All Mixed Up - 11/6/2012
 
Topping out on All Mixed Up - November 6, 2012
 
 

Grace Falls in Early Conditions - Photo by Mike Lewis, CMS Guide, Nov 1, 2012
Grace Falls Nov 1, 2012
 
Notchtop November 1, 2012
 
 
Mike reported really good climbing (albeit a bit wet) at Grace Falls with an easy approach. The other ice in the area hadn't shown up yet. The upper pitches on the NE Face of Notchtop looked great but did not have anything in below them.


Ice at Columbine Falls - November 3, 2012


Ice at Columbine Falls: The far right flow was in excellent condition. One pitch of 30-40 feet of steep and 50-60 feet of low angle ice. WI4-WI2 with WI3 variations. Mike saw a flow directly above Peacock Pool that looked great from far away ~ WI4.






CMS Senior Guide Joey Thompson and clients Kim and Darren Walker made the trip to Rocky Mountain National Park on November 3 in search of snow and ice to run the Intro to Mountaineering course. Conditions were lean but they did find some snow and ice to practice their skills on. Here is a shot from below Hallett's with the Dragon Area in the background.

 
The weather report is showing potential for snow in the Park this weekend. We are psyched for more ice and snow and a great winter season!
 
 
Cheers,
 
Colorado Mountain School
11/7/2012

Monday, March 19, 2012

Black Diamond Guide Glove

Growing up I spent a lot of time working in the yard with my father.  He taught me the importance of hard work, physical activity and being outside.  He also showed me the importance of a good set of work gloves.
Nowadays I make my livelihood as a guide, which means I need a good work glove for the harsh winter conditions I encounter six months out of the year.  There is no better glove than the Black Diamond Guide Glove for the intense work I do.

The Guide Glove is durable, a key element of a work glove.  With its all-leather design and reinforced palm it lasts many seasons before I need a new pair.  It is also very versatile, a key component for a simple person who likes one “do everything” piece of gear.  I use it skiing, ice climbing, digging in the snow and even on rock.  It is super warm yet supple enough to have the necessary dexterity for placing gear.   I can even write in my guide notebook without taking my gloves off, a huge plus when it is cold and windy!
My favorite feature is the removable inner liner which is essential for easy drying.  I guide on Denali each spring and being able to easily dry my gloves each night is so important.  I just remove the inner liners and sleep with them on my belly.  In the morning I put my hands into dry and warm gloves.  For anyone spending multiple nights out in the mountains this is a critical need and the guide glove is the best.

With so much time spent outdoors in cold environments I need to have warm hands.  The Black Diamond Guide Glove is the best I have found to do the job.  I have never had any cold injuries and I believe this is because I have found the warmest and most durable glove out there. 
Who would have known all those weekends working in the yard would have prepared me for the work I do now.  Thanks Dad and thank you Black Diamond!

Russell Hunter
Colorado Mountain School Guide
2829 Mapleton Ave.
Boulder, CO 80301
rhunter@totalclimbing.com

Tuesday, January 24, 2012

Trip Report: Ice Climbing with CMS Guide Andrew Councell

Being from Ohio, Toby Gandy doesn't have much access to big terrain for skiing.  He made the trip out to Colorado to take an AIARE Avalanche Level 1 Course with us, along with a guided day in Rocky Mountain National Park.  Originally Toby wanted to ski Corral Couloir...

...With the minimal snow coverage RMNP had in early December we agreed that a good ski decent was going to be challenging to find. At best it would be limited to survival turns with a chance of core shots - not optimal for a fun day out. I'd always wanted to try ice climbing and also wanted some coaching on basic mountaineering skills, so we decided on an ice climb with an approach on skis.

Our day started off with a quick tour up the summer trail to Loch Vale's "Mo Flo than Go" ice route. Once at the climb we transitioned to crampons. With a quick review of belay and basic ice climbing skills, CMS Guide Andrew Councell led the route and setup up a top rope. I'd never ice climbed before (and have minimal rock climbing experience) so with a good dose of adrenaline I planted my pick. Thock, thock, kick, kick and I was off. My first attempt was up lookers right. A small pitch with a bench in the middle and then on up to the trees at the top. With a quick traverse across the top rock ledge I was done and ready to rappel back to the ground. I felt pretty good and was having a great time. It's a great feeling to be in such a quiet location with just the simple sounds of climbing to be heard.


Author Toby Gandy learning how to ice climb at Loch Vale in RMNP.

The next pitch was up the left hand vertical side. Andrew took a couple of laps and I had a couple more climbs up the pitch. Inevitably my arms began to get pumped and I was struggling to keep going. Andrew did a great job of explaining how to climb more efficiently and I managed to hang in there for a final lap.

CMS Guide Andrew Councell looking sylish with his new Marmot Spire Pants.

Exhilarated and exhausted, Andrew suggested we take a break. He ran through the basics of building THINX ski anchors, then worked on explaining ice screw placement and finally showed me how to make a v-slot anchor. After a quick bite to eat we packed up our gear and ran our rope through a natural ice column to act as a our final rappel anchor. With skis on we rappelled backwards onto the first part of the slope, pulled the rope through and got a couple of quick turns in down to the trail.

Learning ski mountaineering skills: rappelling with your skis on. 

We toured on up Tyndall creek drainage and across Bear lake to get a view of some of the walls further up but unfortunately the clouds were obscuring the view. After some scrambling across some talus we got back to the trail and skied back down to the parking lot - an adventure in itself. 

After a quick ride back to the CMS office to drop off gear we headed to Ed’s Cantina for beers and food. What a great day, with an excellent and friendly guide. A fantastic new sport which I will definitely try again - I'm hooked.


~Toby Gandy



Book your trip with today!

Colorado Mountain School
1-800-836-4008 ext 3
info@totalclimbing.com

Thursday, September 9, 2010

2010/2011 CMS Course Dates Now Available

We recently added all of the upcoming course dates for the 2010/2011 season.

Click here for the mountaineering courses page.
Click here for the ice climbing courses page.
Click here for the ski mountaineering courses page
Click here for the avalanche education courses page

New this season: Denali Prep Course.  This is the perfect course for individuals that want to be better prepared for a peak like Denali.  Click here for more information on this great course.

As always we are offering custom guiding.  With custom guiding we can guide any day of the week and cover what skills you are looking for.

Feel free to contact us if you have any questions or if you'd like to register for a course.  Hopefully we'll speak with you soon.

Take care,

Colorado Mountain School Staff
800-836-4008 x3

Tuesday, January 5, 2010

New Years Day Ice Climbing Rocky Mountain National Park

CMS New Year's Day Ice Climbing 2010 from Simon Fryer on Vimeo.


On New Year's Day CMS guide, Dale Remsberg, and Holland Worsham found great climbing conditions at Hidden Falls in Rocky Mountain National Park. They also had the falls all to themselves for most of the day. Thanks Dale for the great video and inspiration to get out while the ice is good!

Join us for a day of climbing this winter.

www.totalclimbing.com
800.836.4008
info@totalclimbing.com

Thursday, December 10, 2009

Conditions Update: Vail Ice

CMS guides, Andrew Councell and Mark Kelly, found some great ice in Vail last weekend. The conditions are continuing to get better and better. Join us for one of our ice programs or a private day out on the ice or in the mountains.
Keep checking back for more condition updates and pics. We'll be posting every week.

Monday, November 30, 2009

Ice Climbing: Rocky Mountain National Park Update

Over the Thanksgiving weekend CMS guides, Andrew Councell and Mark Kelly, climbed some fun ice routes in Rocky Mountain National Park. Things are starting to form up and with more sunshine, cold evening temps, and potential moisture for next week it's only going to get better. Andrew and Mark have been running around the Park checking out all the early season ice (see earlier post about West Gully and Northeast Face of Notchtop). Please stay in touch and let us know if you have any questions about conditions and hiring a guide for some great days in the RMNP.

The areas Andrew and Mark checked out were around the Loch and Jewel Lake. Both are starting to offer a good variety of ice but remember it's still early season.

The Loch offers some great classic ice pitches:
1) The Crypt: WI4, 2) Freezer Burn WI4, and 3) Cold Storage WI4

Mark and Andrew also checked out the ice around Jewel Lake over the weekend and found some fun slabs and iced up mixed terrain.

Thanks to Mark and Andrew for the great pics, info and inspiration. Cheers!

Colorado Mountain School
info@totalclimbing.com
800.836.4008

Monday, November 16, 2009

Ice Climbing: Lincoln Falls

My friend and I wear really psyched for ice climbing after all of the recent snow fall. We then took a chance to scout out some early ice conditions. I knew that some areas are more likely to have ice than others. I was looking for cooler temps and shaded aspects with higher elevation for forming ice. Also considering the hike in and a recon mission, I though that Lincoln Falls would be a great venue to check. Little did we know what we were in store for.

The drive in to the parking area was a great time to confirm there would be good ice. Once we saw the main gully in a mild blue hue I knew that there was potential for some climbing.

The 1st pitch was a little more wet on the right side the h2o was rushing down the ice fall. Over all there was pretty deep ice. The ice fall took screws and swings.

The second pitch was a bit more interesting. With chandeliers and steeper terrain, I was paying closer attention as to where my placements went . During early season one must try to tread lightly on this forming ice. Ice that is not ready to lead one must really try to avoid it for future climbing.

We found great mixed top roping with out bashing the ice pack apart that was still forming.

Working together we were able to come up with a plan. As mountain guides we are trained to be consciences of the resources and lead by example.

When the early season has you pumped to climb remember to think about preservation and the future of the season for you and especially others.

Joey Thompson
CMS Guide
AMGA Certified Rock Guide
AIARE Level 1 Instructor
jthompson@totalclimbing.com

Friday, November 6, 2009

RMNP Conditions - Ice is Coming In!

West Gully

CMS guides, Mark Kelly and Andrew Councell, checked out early ice conditions in RMNP and found some fun early season climbing. They climbed both All Mixed Up (lower pitches of AMU were thin) and the West Gully. AMU was thin but the flows above Black Lake provided better climbing.

All Mixed Up

Other climbs like Deep Freeze, Necrophilia, and Vanquished were not in and the Crypt is just barely there. Loch Vale ice was not formed on the main flow, the gully (low tide) was in and Mixed emotions and Blade runner were partially formed.

All the trails are hard packed and frozen.

Be careful with early season conditions and keep checking our website, Facebook, and Twitter for more updates. To check out Andrew's full conditions report click here.

Wednesday, August 12, 2009

Craig Luebben

On August 9th the Colorado Mountain School lost one of it’s closest friends, senior guide, and all around mountain guru, Craig Luebben, due to injuries sustained while climbing in North Cascades National Park. We’ve all be stunned by the sudden loss of such an important part of our community. Craig was a teacher and mentor to everyone who worked at CMS. He inspired us to take our profession to the highest level but reminded us to enjoy every step. We will miss his guidance, smile, and never-ending energy.

Craig and Willie Benegas were climbing and training together for an upcoming AMGA Alpine Exam at the time of the incident. The pair were attempting to climb the Torment and Forbidden Traverse, starting the traverse on the SE Face of Torrent via the Taboo Glacier. At the bergshrund, with Craig leading and Willie belaying, Craig attempted to bypass the remnant ice hanging above the bergshrund by ascending rock on the right, and then traversing left on to the ice for the exit moves. According to Wille, at approximately 06:30 as Craig transitioned from the rock to the ice, a block of ice described as being the size of a car calved off taking Craig with it and, resulting in a 30 foot fall. While not struck by the initial block, Craig was pelted by debris as he hung from his rope. Willie managed to get Craig to his belay stance in the bergshrund, stabilize and treat his injuries, and contact rescue personnel. Despite Willie's heroic efforts and a swift response from NCNP SAR personnel, Craig succumbed to his injuries.

Willie suffered minor injuries to his leg and is expected to make a full recovery.

Our deepest condolences and sympathy go out to Craig's wife Silvia, his daughter Giulia, and his many friends around the world. A Memorial Fund for Craig’s family has been set up through the Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition. Follow this link to donate today.

Click here for more information on the Vedauwoo “Next Step” Climbing Clinic August 29-31. Craig had organized a series of these programs and we still plan to host this great three day course with all the proceeds going to help Craig's family. Please join us!

Source: AMGA E-News

Tuesday, February 17, 2009

Rocky Mountain National Park Conditions

February 17th 2009

Hi all,

The forecasted weather for the next couple of days looks pretty unsettled and there’s no telling how much snow the Park will receive. Since the current and approaching systems are so unconsolidated we could get anywhere from a mere few inches to more than a foot. So that’s the potential good news. However, the bad news is the wind that is forecasted to accompany this series of systems. We’re talking gusts into the mid-50mph! Winds that strong, and possibly stronger knowing the Park, will definitely be breaking down the fresh, light, new snow as it is transported into deposition zones and packing the new snow into dense slabs. Reports indicate that these slabs are not bonding very well and are fairly reactive. To read the latest regional avalanche events, visit the Colorado Avalanche Information Center (CAIC). Even after these storms have subsided and the clearing weekend weather approaches, the danger will still be present on some slopes. It’s all-too-easy to fall into the “blue-bird” weather trap and assume that things have stabilized. The nature of our continental snowpack is that the avalanche danger takes a long time to fall, so stay sharp out there.

I was co-instructing a holiday-weekend AIARE Level 1 Avalanche Course near Monarch Pass this weekend. On the southern end of the Sawatch Range, the area had received a lot of new snow prior to the weekend. Yesterday, Monday, we dug snow-profiles above the Lost Wonder Hut on an ENE aspect in treeline terrain. On a mid-30-degree slope we isolated snow columns for compression tests but found no scoreable results despite the new snow and winds. All weekend we watched backcountry riders and skiers on steep slopes but we never really saw much instability despite a CONSIDERABLE avalanche danger rating. However, this is when I feel we have to be most careful. We have no idea how close those people came to triggering an avalanche that could have killed them and, likely, those people don’t know either. Maybe it was really close, maybe not. Either way, be careful about choosing to travel in terrain simply because there are already tracks there.

Before the weekend, I had a couple of absolutely glorious days of skiing in the Park due to a rare phenomenon: new snow AND little-to-no wind. Thursday I was skiing with a couple clients above Emerald Lake in dreamy, breathless conditions. It was so good that I went back up there on my own on Friday as well. Though the winds were just beginning to pick up, I was able to ski over 5000’ vertical before 11am, including two laps down the Dead Elk Couloir, or left-most Dragontail (aka, West Couloir). Constantly measuring slope incline in the Dead Elk as I went up, I had one reading of 43-degrees! I skinned up the Dead Elk until I was 30 vertical feet from the top of the snow and tried counting my turns in the perfect snow on the way down. I lost count after 30. I went up again but not quite as high the second time, poor legs. Then I crossed over the Dragontail Couloir to ski more southerly aspects to see how the snow was. Another 800’ descent in awesome snow before heading to the Terrain Park and skiing the 50-degree entrance to that run. I scurried home and declared that it was very possibly the best morning of skiing I’ve ever had in the Park. Conditions quickly changed overnight, however, and the next day friends went into the same area only to find wind-blown slabs and a once-again-CONSIDERABLE avalanche danger. You can get away with something one day but 24 hours later it could be totally different. The avalanche danger in the Park will likely remain CONSIDERABLE through the week and likely into the weekend as well, so keep checking the CAIC forecasts and be extra safe this week.


Not much has changed in terms of ice conditions in the Park. Hidden Falls, Black Lake, and Jewel Lake areas will likely hold ice for another couple of months. Routes like “Jaws” and “the Squid” will not. Honestly, I’ve been skiing so much lately that I haven’t had many days out on the ice in the last few weeks so I’d be grateful for any updates.

If you have any condition-related observations you’d like to share with me, send an e-mail to acouncell@totalclimbing.com. Thanks!

-Andrew Councell is a CMS Guide and currently-psyched, year-round Estes Park resident.