Guide Gear Review - BCA Stash BC Pack

CMS Guide Rick Gaukel with the Stash BC in RMNP

On a recent trip to the Valhallas in Canada, I was exclusively using BCA's Stash BC Pack. As the assistant guide for this week-long, lodge-based touring trip, I wasn't just carrying my own personal kit each day but had my guide's gear as well. In addition to my own food, water, gloves, extra layers, goggles, helmet, shovel, probe and saw, I was also carrying a soft rescue sled, a snow survey kit, a 5'x8' tarp for emergency shelter, a first aid kit, repair kit, radio and more gloves/layers as backups for clients. This sounds like a lot and it is, but I was able to pack everything neatly in its place in the Stash BC. I have no problems packing for long day-trips in the backcountry with the Stash BC and thus it is my go-to day-touring pack.

 

I really like the shovel, probe and saw-specific sleeves in the designated rescue pocket. It makes it easy to store and retrieve these items when the bag is packed full. The goggle-pocket is a new feature for me. I like being able to shove my sunglasses or goggles into this cozy pocket rather than dealing with a goggle bag or worrying about scratching up the lenses.

BCA Stash BC looking good below Flattop in RMNP

Other features I really like are the back-panel zipper access and the ski-carry systems. When guiding, and having such a full pack, it's a real pain to pull everything out of the top to get to something at the bottom. The back-panel zipper lets me grab the blister kit or shell jacket stuffed at the bottom of the pack. The ski-carry systems enable a cross-carry or A-frame carry style. Cross carries are best for short distances or sprints up a boot-pack to the next traverse and are great because they are fast to set up. BCA has made the Stash BC's cross-carry system easy to use, quick, clean and workable with fat skis. The A-frame carry works better for longer distances or if I'm pulling out a rope for me and my clients. Another plus of the Stash BC is that it compresses well, making it suitable for my personal backcountry or lift-accessed sidecountry trips as well. Thanks for making such a well designed pack BCA!

Rick ready to shred with his BCA Stash BC

Have fun and be safe out there.
Andrew Councell
CMS Senior Guide
AMGA Certified Alpine Guide
AMGA Certified Rock Guide

www.coloradomountainschool.com
Acouncell@totalclimbing.com
1.800.836.4008

Finding the Joy in Skiing with the US Snowboard Team

Last week I had the pleasure of skiing with a few members of the US Snowboard Halfpipe Team (Coach Rick Bower and riders Matt Ladley, Gretchen Bleiler, and Ellery Hollingsworth). I was invited by the Team Physician; Tom Hackett, M.D. from the Steadman Hawkins Clinic in Vail, CO. Tom failed to mention we would be skiing with the team members (I was skiing as I am terrible on a snowboard).  I arrived at the base of the gondola for first tracks at Vail to both a great surprise and opportunity. The next few hours were inspirational and helped me rediscover the joy of skiing.  

My initial apprehension at riding with the team quickly dissipated as I realized they were all here to have fun and enjoy a few hours on the mountain together. I followed the team down our “warm up run” (Matt hit 68 mph). I was mesmerized by the ease and fluidity with which the riders moved. I noticed how they would pop off any little roller, bump or cat track. They did not do this to show off or draw attention to themselves, but simply to have fun. They would throw tricks when they wanted (which were quite impressive) but more noteworthy was that they were simply enjoying the experience. They were just out having fun with their friends.

Rick started a contest with Matt to see who could do the best donut carve (make a full carving circle on the snow). This inspired Matt and after they each pulled back side, switch donut carves, I was utterly amazed. Gretchen and Ellery simply flowed down the slopes and enjoyed making the entire mountain their play area. They hopped onto the sides, pulled floating 360’s and found the most elegant lines to ride. They did this all while chatting and catching up on life with one another. They were amazing and inspiring to watch.

During the morning I found myself letting go a bit. I went off the rollers, caught a bit of air off the cat tracks (no 360’s for me), tried to complete a donut carve and kept a huge smile on my face the entire time. I noticed Dr. Hackett enjoying the same freedom on the mountain. We must have looked like a bunch of kids on a snow day from school because that’s what it felt like!

It was inspirational to ride with this group and I cannot thank them enough for helping me find my inner child on the slopes again. I always enjoy skiing, but sometimes get caught up in thoughts like, “I wish the snow was better.” Doug Coombs said it best, “There is no such thing as bad snow, simply bad skiers.” It was great to take a step back and remember that even if the snow is “bad” we are still sliding down the hill with sticks on our feet and that is FUN.

I was able to ski fresh powder at Vail the next weekend with my son Oz and a few of his buddies. It was great to take the energy I got from skiing with the team to my son and his friends. According to them we had the “BEST DAY EVER,” and I am inclined to agree. It wasn’t simply because the conditions were great that we had "the best day ever," it was because we were out there to have fun and enjoy the act of skiing together. We had smiles on our faces for the entire weekend and enjoyed every aspect of the skiing and camaraderie. The great attitude from the US Snowboard Team members carried over to my next ski outing. I plan to carry it on for the rest of the season and beyond! Here is a clip from "the best day ever!"
 

 

     Have fun and be safe out there,

     Mike Alkaitis

     AMGA Certified Rock Guide

     CMS Senior Guide

     Colorado Mountain School

     malkaitis@totalclimbing.com

     1.800.836.4008





 

Black Diamond Storm Headlamp - Guide Gear Review

Black Diamond Storm Headlamp 

Earlier this season in Rocky Mountain National Park, the Black Diamond Storm headlamp helped me recover lost equipment and get my first turns of the season. Here's my recount from an AIARE Level I Avalanche Course. 

We had spent most of the day bringing all of our skills together with a terrain tour in Tyndall Gorge. On our way back to the trail head we decided to set up one more companion rescue drill. We selected a site in between Dream and Nymph Lakes to do our beacon search. The students located and dug up the target in record time. We all got ready to ski down the trail and a question arose about double burials. I demoed and discussed some methods. Time flies by and it's time to go meet the rest of the group and get back to the classroom to wrap up the course.   

AIARE Level I Students in RMNP

Our Avalanche Level 1 arrives back at the Colorado Mountain School after being in the field. The guide team collects the rentals and it dawns on me to check my pack for the extra beacon…it is not there. I check my truck…not there either. I now know that the beacon is still under the snow surface in between Dream and Nymph Lakes. I grab my skis, skins, boots, and Black Diamond Storm Head Lamp and whisk to Bear lake parking. By the time I arrive at the parking area there is only one car and folks are walking to it all bundled up and staring at me. I toggle through the different levels of lighting. Double tap and I get the red setting…no need for something brighter. Sure enough 100 lumens will do the trick during a new moon and off I go up the trail disappearing from the whispering folks shocked on my late ski decision. 

I arrive at the site of where we were practicing. Boom baby! Here it is. I rip my skins, buckle my boots and away I go skiing trough the trees back to the parking area. This happens to be my first real ski run of the season and it is lead by my BD Strom Headlamp. I arrive back to CMS with the beacon and all is well.  The BD Storm stays in my ski pack all of the time waiting for the next nighttime adventure.

Joey Thompson

CMS Senior Guide

AMGA Certified Rock & Alpine Guide

Colorado Mountain School

1.800.836.4008

Guide Gear Review: Scarpa Maestrale RS



The Scarpa Maestrale RS & Gea RS

When I saw the Scarpa Maestrale RS at last winters OR show I was intrigued. I loved touring in the original orange Maestrale, but always wanted a bit more behind the boot for the skis I use (95-118mm underfoot). I was able to obtain a pair of these prized boots in November, but had to wait until December to get the boots out into the field. So far I have used the Maestrales on many short tours, a few long tours and for eight days at the resort. Overall the new Maestrale RS is a great step forward in the high performance AT world. 



These guides know something...Scarpa boots rock!

The absolute best feature of all Scarpas is that they come with real Intuition liners. The new RS Maestrale comes with the new Intuition Pro Flex RS liners. This liner has more padding than the older version and the tongue is stiff enough on the outside so you do not get shin bang. As always remember to get your liners molded by a professional (or be really patient at home) and have the boots shell sized before you purchase. The next feature you notice is the weight. The RS is only 40 grams heavier (7lbs 4oz per pair, actual weight on a scale in size 27 vs 7lbs 2oz) than the original Maestrale and comes in at a 120 flex instead of a 100. This difference in stiffness is marked and really appreciated. Here's a video of the RS in action. 

 

 

So what terrain is this boot set up for? It has become my go to boot for short and long tours as it meets all my demands for a lightweight, stiff boot with great range of motion (Scarpa claims 37 degrees of motion). I can't say if there really is 37 degrees of motion, but the boot range is greater than my body’s range of motion. I have been riding skis that are 105mm and 118mm underfoot and the boots drive the skis with ease. I have skied crud, powder, and groomed and these boots tackled all snow types. I would not recommend this boot if you exclusively ski the area, but they are fine if you are occasionally visiting them. Overall these are awesome.  

 



Mike Alkaitis

AMGA Certified Rock Guide

CMS Senior Guide 
Colorado Mountain School
1.800.836.4008
malkaitis@totalclimbing.com



CMS Guide Mike Soucy enjoying the RS on Vail Pass, CO 

Yes, I know it’s a little late, but I was waiting for more snow before reviewing these boots. Finally, after receiving said snow, I decided to take them out for a spin during our Christmas storm and report back.

The Scarpa Maestrale RS is the bootmaker’s latest edition to the do-it-all lightweight charger category. It benefits from a low profile shell with tech compatibility, an Intuition brand moldable liner, and a tour mode that promotes your natural stride.

Out of the box, I was immediately impressed by the weight of these boots and the flashy shell design. I was moderately impressed by the color scheme. Then they sat for a few weeks while we rode our mountain bikes into December.

After finally logging a few days in them, I must say that I’m impressed. Their light weight design, coupled with the cuff’s range of motion in walk mode promotes comfort while touring. Lock them down, and they provide a reliable, progressive flex that can push the biggest of boards. Perfect for long ski tours through rugged and diverse terrain. Here's a quick video of CMS guides testing out their new RS setups.

 

The hardware appears durable and easily repairable. One minor point of criticism is that Scarpa consistently chooses to omit the buckle “catches” that keep things tight while climbing with the boot loosened. Easily retrofittable, but this would be a welcome addition.

I’m curious to see how I adjust to the shell’s tongue opening. It reminds me of the door on an expensive Italian sports car. Initially, it takes some effort to open up the cuff, as well as remove the liner. However, I believe that this design improves the forward flex of the boot, so I’m open to it.

If you’re an aggressive skier, looking for an energy efficient, high performance boot, this could be your winner. It would also help if you have low volume feet. Head over to your local boot fitter and give them a try.

Mike Soucy

IFMGA Certified Mountain Guide

CMS Senior Guide
Colorado Mountain School
1.800.836.4008

msoucy@totalclimbing.com

 

AMGA Ski Guide Course with Norie Kizaki

CMS Guide Norie Kizaki recently took the AMGA Ski Guide Course with help from funding through a scholarship that she received  from Backcountry Access.  Luckily for us, the camera was rolling.  The course was great and Norie crushed it!  Thank you BCA, you're the best!!!

Spring Skiing in RMNP... I love it!

I skied Dragon Tail Couloir (DTC) this morning along with one of my coworkers, Andrew Councell, and my husband who wanted to get some skiing in before going to work. For a change, we decided to drop in from the top. Thanks to the previous storm, we were able to skin all the way up on Flattop Mountain. I love it when we don't need to carry our skis!

We rappelled down one rope length from the top where the rock is exposed, and started skiing. At the top, we had soft snow to kick around on top of bullet hard snow underneath but amazingly it was not icy at all. As we skied down, the snow became softer and softer. It was very fun skiing. DTC is a beautiful line for both climbing and skiing, and the spring is the best time to do so.

The view from the top was amazing.  It was great to get out with my coworker and lovely husband.  We all had a blast.  Although the day made my husband late for work... It was worth it.  Just don't tell his boss.

I'd love to get out again this season.  If you have any interest, please contact me or the office.  Hopefully we can set something up and get some turns in together.

-Norie Kizaki
Colorado Mountain School Guide
nkizaki@totalclimbing.com
800-836-4008 x3

Apine, Rock & Ski Trip Report

Recently I had the pleasure to climb and ski with Jake Lauer form Durango.  Jake is an aspirant in the mountain guiding realm working hard to achieve AMGA Rock Certification - and he is well on his way.

Day #1:  AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Exam preparation.  We worked on transitions mostly, covering topics like anchor building for top rope set ups, counter ascending, counter balance rappelling, raising/hauling systems, and lowering.

Day #2:  Ski touring and traveling with a focus on tour planning and snow pack assessment.  Jake and I roamed through the mountains while targeting a few classic ski descents in RMNP, while taking time to dig pits and gather information on current conditions and potential hazards.

Day #3:  Eldorado Canyon this time of year is amazing.  So we went climbing on the Red Garden wall to  work on efficient multi pitch transitions and complex descents.

Day #4 & 5: Overnight preparation for our summit attempt on Longs Peak - “Colorado’s 14er”.  Jake and I packed our backpacks and left for Battle Mountain Camp to get a head start in the morning and to acclimatize for a night.  We had our sights set for the North Face route and at this time of year the route is in mixed condition.

This was Jakes first time summit of Longs Peak via the North Face route.   Congratulations Jake, very nice work!  It's been a pleasure sharing the mountains with you!

Joseph Thompson

Colorado Mountain School
Senior Guide

AIARE Level 1 Instructor
AMGA Rock Guide
AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Program Provider
800-836-4008
climberjoeyt@gmail.com

Skiing Dragon Tail Couloir

Spring skiing is still crankin' in Rocky Mountain National Park! CMS Guides Matt Lipscomb, Joey Thompson and Mike Alkaitis spent this morning on a training outing up and down Dragon Tail Couloir.

Black Diamond Guide Glove

Growing up I spent a lot of time working in the yard with my father.  He taught me the importance of hard work, physical activity and being outside.  He also showed me the importance of a good set of work gloves.
Nowadays I make my livelihood as a guide, which means I need a good work glove for the harsh winter conditions I encounter six months out of the year.  There is no better glove than the Black Diamond Guide Glove for the intense work I do.

The Guide Glove is durable, a key element of a work glove.  With its all-leather design and reinforced palm it lasts many seasons before I need a new pair.  It is also very versatile, a key component for a simple person who likes one “do everything” piece of gear.  I use it skiing, ice climbing, digging in the snow and even on rock.  It is super warm yet supple enough to have the necessary dexterity for placing gear.   I can even write in my guide notebook without taking my gloves off, a huge plus when it is cold and windy!

My favorite feature is the removable inner liner which is essential for easy drying.  I guide on Denali each spring and being able to easily dry my gloves each night is so important.  I just remove the inner liners and sleep with them on my belly.  In the morning I put my hands into dry and warm gloves.  For anyone spending multiple nights out in the mountains this is a critical need and the guide glove is the best.

With so much time spent outdoors in cold environments I need to have warm hands.  The Black Diamond Guide Glove is the best I have found to do the job.  I have never had any cold injuries and I believe this is because I have found the warmest and most durable glove out there. 

Who would have known all those weekends working in the yard would have prepared me for the work I do now.  Thanks Dad and thank you Black Diamond!

Russell Hunter
Colorado Mountain School Guide
2829 Mapleton Ave.
Boulder, CO 80301
rhunter@totalclimbing.com

2012 CMS In-House Guide Training - Photo and Video Montage

Each winter the guides of the Colorado Mountain School travel to a location to practice and stay current on their ski guide training.  With the snow the best in our very own backyard, the team decided to do the training in Rocky Mountain National Park.  Below are some photos and videos of their training.

As you can see, the skiing in Rocky Mountain National Park is really good right now.  We'd love to get out with you this season.  We offer courses for every ability level as well as private guiding.  Call us today to set up your outing.

-Colorado Mountain School

800-836-4008 x3

Weekly Wednesday Blog Post: Tips to better enjoy your sub-zero outdoor pursuits

It’s been frigid on the Front Range this week. Highs in the mountains are in the single digits, with enough wind to freeze your skin before you know it.  I’m not complaining. Cold weather means light pow and more ice.

I was out Monday checking it out and thought a useful blog post would provide a few tips to better enjoy your sub-zero outdoor pursuits this winter.

1.     Hold What You’ve Got

It’s easier to stay warm than it is to get warm. On days like yesterday, my puffy jacket lives on top of my pack. When I stop for a rest or a snack, it’s the first thing to go on, along with a warm hat. You start to cool down as soon as you stop moving, so layer up and keep the heat in!

2.     Stoke the Furnace!

Cold calls for calories and hydration. Remember that proper hydration is essential to supplying fuel and energy to body parts to facilitate heat production. Once the cold weather rolls around, I replace one of my water bottles with a thermos of hot tea. Be careful with bladder systems, as they tend to freeze. I also eat higher calorie food in the winter. Time to ditch the lettuce and cucumber sandwich, it’s P.B. and Nutella season!

3.     Keep Your Digits Warm

Cold fingers are probably the most common problem while out on cold days. The screaming barfies are not a mandatory rite of passage. One mistake that I see occurs when people take their gloves off to complete a task. Dropping your gloves in the snow at your feet immediately makes them cold (see tip #1). Now you are stuck stuffing your hands in icy gloves. Whenever you take off your gloves, stuff them in your coat and keep the heat! Toes are more difficult as they are generally immobile in your boots. Proper fitting insulated boots and clean, dry socks are the ticket. Consider shake n’ warm heaters if you have trouble with circulation.

There you have it. Three tips for staying warm and enjoying your days out this season. Now as far as finding the best snow and ice, I can’t tell you, but I can show you. Give us a call when you’re ready to get the goods. Have fun out there and hope to work with you soon!

Take care,

Mike Soucy

CMS Guide

800-836-4008 x3

Weekly Monday Gear Review: BCA Tracker2 - The Nerd's Choice

I'm typically sort of a nerdy guy, fascinated with books, gadgetry, gizmos, numbers and all other things socially awkward.  I even talk nasally, have freckles, wear thick glasses and routinely go for days without showering.  So when I got my hands on BCA's new Tracker2 avalanche beacon last year, you can just imagine my unclean snort-giggling fits of glee.

Now, this beacon isn't brand new to the market but I'm sold on it despite a number of other cool beacons out there.  Despite my nerdicular tendencies, I appreciate the simple and efficient design of the T2 beacon.  Boasting an additional antennae and faster micro-processor than it's predecessor, this beacon already out-performs others on the market, including the original Tracker.  Ah, but those boys at BCA think of everything, even super-cooling the antennae before building their beacons so that really cold days won't damage the frequency we so vitally rely on.  Cold temps can adversely affect the antennae, causing frequency drift but BCA cools them first, then aligns the frequency.  It's just one less thing to worry about when you forget the beacon in the car overnight as you rush indoors to catch another rerun of Family Matters.

My favorite feature of the T2 is how quickly it can switch functions, from transmit to search and vice versa.  Other beacons have a prolonged start-up time and, in a stressful situation, these 6-15 seconds seem like hours.  With the T2, you can turn it on, immediately pull the search "tab" and begin your signal search, all in less than two seconds.  The super fast micro-processor gives real-time information as you search and the third antennae effectively eliminates "dead zones" in your fine search phase.  Priceless.

As unlikely as multiple-burial scenarios may be, my favorite T2 feature comes in handy when searching for multiple victims.  Let's say you've pinpointed one victim and are looking for a second.  Your searching beacon will "lock on" to the buried beacon you've just found and will prefer that signal even though you move away, something called signal loyalty.  With the T2, it's easy to "reset" your searching beacon simply by pushing in the search tab and immediately pulling it back out.  If nothing else, this at least clears the "memory" which might allow you to focus in on the closer, stronger signal.  This is just a little shortcut/tip that has helped me find three beacons in a football field of snow in less than two minutes.  Dorking out for a few minutes and mastering the ins and outs of "special mode" will also make you an asset in any multiple-burial scenarios.  These are just some of the features and one little trick that make the Tracker2 stand out above the rest.  If you're interested in honing your companion rescue skills, just tape up your glasses, tighten those suspenders and come on over to CMS for a day of knee-slapping nerdery.  I'd love to show you what I know and, chances are, I'll have recently showered. :)  Here's to a great, safe winter!

Andrew Councell
CMS Guide and AIARE Level 1 Instructor
800-836-4008 x3

Weekly Wednesday Blog Post: Strengh Training for Backcountry Skiing

We’re still digging out from Winter Storm #2 and storms #3 and #4 are already in the forecast!  As the snow pack builds over the next month or so, this is the perfect time to also be building your backcountry skiing fitness base.  A complete ski conditioning program should include elements of aerobic and anaerobic fitness, plyometric resistance, and strength training.  The aerobic conditioning will get you up the skin track; the anaerobic conditioning will enable you to link turns for hundreds of vertical at a time; the plyometric resistance training will prepare your body for dynamic skiing movements in ever changing snow conditions; and the strength training will build overall power and will help to prevent injury.

CMS Guide Matt Lipscomb hits the weights to prepare for ski season.

One of the most efficient styles of strength training is Olympic weight lifting.  The Olympic lifts are dynamic, they engage multiple large muscle groups, and the strength gains translate well to athletic sports (like backcountry skiing) without “bulking up.”  Shown above is one of my favorite training lifts – the deadlift.  It works all the major muscle groups in the lower body (hamstrings, quads, glutes) as well as the core and lower back muscles.

Now is the time to build your fitness foundation for a long and rewarding ski season!  Once you are ready to get out skiing, I'd love to be your guide.  Call the office, request me, and let's get some turns in together.

 -Matt Lipscomb

CMS Guide

Please Note: The Boulder Rock Club offers ski conditioning classes free for all members.  Tuesdays at 5:45pm and Wednesdays at 12pm.

Trip Report 1 of 2 - Mt. Rainier

Mt. Rainier, Fuhrer Finger
13-14 May 2011

Mt. Rainier is a massive volcanic mountain located some 50 miles southeast of Seattle, Washington. With a summit elevation of 14, 411 ft., Mt. Rainier is the tallest in the Cascade Range and in the state of Washington. On clear days, it dominates the southeastern horizon of the Seattle metropolitan area. With 26 major glaciers and 36 square miles of snowfields and glaciers, it is the most heavily glaciated peak in the lower 48 states. The minimum ante to gain the summit is more than 9000 ft. of elevation gain and more than 14 miles roundtrip, crossing heavily glaciated terrain, and with the constant threat of the notoriously unstable Pacific Northwest weather. Despite those details (or perhaps because of them), some 10,000 people will attempt to climb Mt. Rainier each year, 90% of them via the Camp Muir – Disappointment Cleaver route. (Most of the rest of the parties will attempt the Emmons Glacier route from the northeast.)

South Face of Mt. Rainier.

Mt. Rainier has been on my list for more than a decade, but for various reasons I’ve never been able to make it happen.  With reports of an epic spring snow pack in the Cascades and feeling strong after an already amazing ski season, Tanya and I rallied to Seattle to give it a go.  We chose the Fuhrer Finger route for a number reasons:  A)  it’s one of the shortest and fastest summit routes, B) if conditions allowed, we could potentially ski a continuous 10400 vertical foot run from the summit to the Nisqually Bridge, and C) we would avoid the hordes on the Disappointment Cleaver route and could actually enjoy the mountain wilderness.

Descending onto the lower Nisqually Gl.

The latest weather forecast was calling for two days of high pressure with clear skies, solid freezes overnight, and seasonally warm temps during the day.  We were cautiously optimistic that we had “caught” one of the rare NW weather windows! 

Climbing the Lower Nisqually Gl.

The Fuhrer Finger Couloir comes into view (above and slightly left of me in this photo).

Our plan was to ascend the Lower Nisqually Glacier to the Wilson Glacier and then camp at around 9000 ft. on the lower Kautz Ridge.  Camping on the ridge would not only be scenic, but it would be safely out of harms way from potential crevasse fall of the Upper Wilson Glacier.

Setting up camp on the Kautz Ridge.

View from the tent (Mt Adams on the horizon).

Strong winds and cold temps ensured a solid freeze overnight.  The firm conditions made for excellent cramponing as we traversed the Wilson Glacier to access the Fuhrer Finger.  Conditions varied as we ascended and we found everything from firm neve to boot deep wind slab.  As we reached the dog-leg of the couloir, we witnessed a really cool solar halo.  (Ice crystals in the thin upper level clouds refracting sun light to form a halo.) 

Crossing the Wilson Glacier.

Solar halo.

We knew that the tricky part of the route would be finding the cut-off to access the Upper Nisqually Glacier.  The cut-off is the one relatively safe line through the heavily crevassed zone at approximately 12,400 ft.  It is also possible to follow the rock rib directly up from the Finger couloir, but the skiing on the Upper Nisqually looked much better than what we saw near the ridge. 

The crux of the cut-off was finding this 20 ft wide section where the crevasses narrowed enough to step across safely.

Heavily crevassed zone on the Upper Nisqually.

We were still feeling strong and making good time as we reached 14,000 ft and could see the summit cone just above us.  The winds had been picking up as we climbed, but were not bad (certainly not by Colorado standards).  But conditions changed in a heart beat as clouds rolled in, visibility dropped to less than 10 ft and the wind picked up to nearly 40 mph.  We stopped long enough to put on puffy jackets and briefly discuss our options.  The combination of strong winds, cold temps, limited visibility, high crevasse hazard, and the recent fatality near our high point made the choice easy:  time to descend. 

Weather changing, time to descend.

We had to descend nearly 1500 vertical feet to escape the cloud.  With the immense crevasse hazard looming on either side and below our route (and hidden by the low visibility), it was a good test of the white-out navigation skills.  Snow conditions in the Finger couloir were still a bit firm thanks to the winds and cloud cover, but conditions steadily improved as we descended.  We stopped long enough to pack up camp and have a quick snack.  Then 4500 more vertical feet of skiing with perfect corn conditions!

Below the cloud and entering the Fuhrer Finger couloir.

Descending the Wilson Glacier onto the lower Nisqually Gl.

Back on the Muir ridge near 5500 ft, temps were warm and winds wer calm. (Summit still shrouded in clouds.)

Snowbank in the parking lot.

We were a little disappointed not to have summited, but were still psyched to have climbed and skied the lion’s share of the Fuhrer Finger route. It truly is a classic line on an iconic mountain.


See you in the backcountry.

-Matt Lipscomb
CMS Guide

Spring is the best time to climb and ski many of the classic lines in Colorado and beyond! Join us for a day of guided ski mountaineering and learn the skills to safely enjoy these majestic routes.