On a recent trip to the Valhallas in Canada, I was
exclusively using BCA's Stash BC Pack. As the assistant guide for this
week-long, lodge-based touring trip, I wasn't just carrying my own personal kit
each day but had my guide's gear as well. In addition to my own food, water,
gloves, extra layers, goggles, helmet, shovel, probe and saw, I was also
carrying a soft rescue sled, a snow survey kit, a 5'x8' tarp for emergency
shelter, a first aid kit, repair kit, radio and more gloves/layers
as backups for clients. This sounds like a lot and it is, but I was able to
pack everything neatly in its place in the Stash BC. I have no problems
packing for long day-trips in the backcountry with the Stash BC and thus it is my go-to day-touring pack.
I really like the shovel, probe and saw-specific sleeves in
the designated rescue pocket. It makes it easy to store and retrieve these
items when the bag is packed full. The goggle-pocket is a new feature for me. I
like being able to shove my sunglasses or goggles into this cozy pocket rather
than dealing with a goggle bag or worrying about scratching up the lenses.
BCA Stash BC looking good below Flattop in RMNP
Other features I really like are the back-panel zipper
access and the ski-carry systems. When guiding, and having such a full pack,
it's a real pain to pull everything out of the top to get to something at the bottom.
The back-panel zipper lets me grab the blister kit or shell jacket stuffed at the bottom of the pack. The ski-carry systems enable a cross-carry or A-frame carry style. Cross carries are best
for short distances or sprints up a boot-pack to the next traverse and are
great because they are fast to set up. BCA has made the Stash BC's cross-carry
system easy to use, quick, clean and workable with fat skis. The A-frame carry
works better for longer distances or if I'm pulling out a rope
for me and my clients. Another plus of the Stash BC is that it compresses well, making it
suitable for my personal backcountry or lift-accessed sidecountry trips as well. Thanks for making such a well designed pack BCA!
Rick ready to shred with his BCA Stash BC
Have fun and be safe out there. Andrew Councell
CMS Senior Guide
AMGA Certified Alpine Guide
AMGA Certified Rock Guide
I
wore Marmot’s Minimalist Jacket every day this winter while ski guiding in
Hokkaido, Japan. Marmot uses GORE-TEX® with Paclite® Technology in the
jacket, which means that it is light, packs well and keeps you dry. On off-piste
days, I wore the Marmot Dena Jacket underneath the Minimalist – which is a
perfect combination on cold and snowy days...essentially everyday in Hokkaido. When skiing and guiding in the
backcountry, I can wear the Minimalist all day over a thin fleece layer. You might think that I would get hot skinning or breaking trail while wearing GORE-TEX®, but I do not. The Minimalist’s roomy
PitZips™ allow for excellent venting. The length of the jacket and an integrated draw-cord
hem also aide in venting and are great features so long as I remember to close off the drawcord when I am ready to ski
down in deep powder...essentially every run in
Hokkaido! The Minimalist Jacket also features a well-designed, adjustable
hood, which is essential when it is dumping snow. Lastly, the
Minimalist Jacket comes in seven colors, so there is always a perfect color for
everyone – even us ladies!
The
Minimalist is not only for super-snowy Japan. This will be my go-to
piece for springtime in Colorado, and also a great choice for hiking or
backpacking in rainy conditions. Thank you Marmot for creating this
functional jacket!
Earlier this season in Rocky Mountain National Park, the Black Diamond Storm headlamp helped me recover lost equipment and get my first turns of the season. Here's my recount from an AIARE Level I Avalanche Course.
We had spent most of the day bringing all of our skills together
with a terrain tour in Tyndall Gorge. On our way back to the trail head we decided to set up one more companion rescue
drill. We selected a site in between
Dream and Nymph Lakes to do our beacon search. The students located and dug up the target in record time. We all got ready to ski
down the trail and a question arose about double burials. I demoed and discussed some methods. Time flies by and it's time to go meet
the rest of the group and get back to the classroom to wrap up the course.
AIARE Level I Students in RMNP
Our
Avalanche Level 1 arrives back at the Colorado Mountain School after being in
the field.The guide team collects the
rentals and it dawns on me to check my pack for the extra beacon…it is not
there.I check my truck…not there
either.I now know that the beacon is
still under the snow surface in between Dream and Nymph Lakes.I grab my skis, skins, boots, and Black
Diamond Storm Head Lamp and whisk to Bear lake parking.By the time I arrive at the parking area there
is only one car and folks are walking to it all bundled up and staring at me.I toggle through the different levels of
lighting. Double tap and I get the red setting…no need for something brighter.Sure enough 100 lumens will do the trick
during a new moon and off I go up the trail disappearing from the whispering
folks shocked on my late ski decision.
I arrive at the site of where we were practicing. Boom baby! Here it is.I rip my skins, buckle my boots and away I go skiing trough the trees back to the parking
area.This happens to be my first real ski run of the season and it is lead by my BD Strom Headlamp. I arrive back to CMS
with the beacon and all is well.The BD Storm stays in my ski pack all of the time waiting for the next nighttime
adventure.
The Black Diamond Cobras are my favorite ice tools on the market. They have the craftsmanship of a Ferrari and the burl of an eighteen wheel truck. I have used these tools almost exclusively for the last four seasons on a variety of objectives. They climb rock well and excel on ice.
The Cobras are a precision instrument. They have the greatest clearance of any Black Diamond Tools without sacrificing balance. Black Diamond has made these with a lightweight Carbon Fiber Shaft to provide damp, accurate swings. They feature a modular head design, so you can easily put on the adze when you are in the mountains and switch out to dueling hammers for your drytooling enjoyment.
Photo by Karsten Delap
After years of abuse, these tools are still swinging great; a testament to the durability of the tool. The Cobras are a great tool for anything from the Ouray Ice Park to the North Buttress of Mount Hunter!
When I saw the Scarpa Maestrale RS at last winters OR show I
was intrigued. I loved touring in the original orange Maestrale, but always
wanted a bit more behind the boot for the skis I use (95-118mm underfoot). I
was able to obtain a pair of these prized boots in November, but had to wait
until December to get the boots out into the field. So far I have used the Maestrales on many short tours, a few long tours and for eight days at the
resort. Overall the new Maestrale RS is a great step forward in the high
performance AT world.
These guides know something...Scarpa boots rock!
The absolute best feature of all Scarpas is that they come with real Intuition liners. The new RS Maestrale comes with the new Intuition Pro Flex RS liners. This liner has more padding than the older version and the tongue is stiff enough on the outside so you do not get shin bang. As always remember to get your liners molded by a professional (or be really patient at home) and have the boots shell sized before you purchase. The next feature you
notice is the weight. The RS is only 40 grams heavier (7lbs 4oz per pair,
actual weight on a scale in size 27 vs 7lbs 2oz) than the original Maestrale
and comes in at a 120 flex instead of a 100. This difference in stiffness is
marked and really appreciated. Here's a video of the RS in action.
So what terrain is this boot set up for? It has become my go
to boot for short and long tours as it meets all my demands for a lightweight,
stiff boot with great range of motion (Scarpa claims 37 degrees of motion). I
can't say if there really is 37 degrees of motion, but the boot range is greater
than my body’s range of motion. I have been riding skis that are 105mm and
118mm underfoot and the boots drive the skis with ease. I have skied crud, powder,
and groomed and these boots tackled all
snow types. I would not recommend this boot if you exclusively ski the area,
but they are fine if you are occasionally visiting them. Overall these are awesome.
CMS Guide Mike Soucy enjoying the RS on Vail Pass, CO
Yes, I know it’s a little late, but I was waiting for more
snow before reviewing these boots. Finally, after receiving said snow, I
decided to take them out for a spin during our Christmas storm and report back.
The Scarpa Maestrale RS is the bootmaker’s latest edition to
the do-it-all lightweight charger category. It benefits from a low profile
shell with tech compatibility, an Intuition brand moldable liner, and a tour
mode that promotes your natural stride.
Out of the box, I was immediately impressed by the weight of
these boots and the flashy shell design. I was moderately impressed by the
color scheme. Then they sat for a few weeks while we rode our mountain
bikes into December.
After finally logging a few days in them, I must say that
I’m impressed. Their light weight design, coupled with the cuff’s range of motion in
walk mode promotes comfort while touring. Lock them down, and they provide a
reliable, progressive flex that can push the biggest of boards. Perfect for
long ski tours through rugged and diverse terrain. Here's a quick video of CMS guides testing out their new RS setups.
The hardware appears durable and easily repairable. One
minor point of criticism is that Scarpa consistently chooses to omit the buckle
“catches” that keep things tight while climbing with the boot loosened. Easily
retrofittable, but this would be a welcome addition.
I’m curious to see how I adjust to the shell’s tongue
opening. It reminds me of the door on an expensive Italian sports car.
Initially, it takes some effort to open up the cuff, as well as remove the
liner. However, I believe that this design improves the forward flex of the
boot, so I’m open to it.
If you’re an aggressive skier, looking for an energy
efficient, high performance boot, this could be your winner. It would also help
if you have low volume feet. Head over to your local boot fitter and give them
a try.
Mike Lewis utilizing the BD Spinner Leash on All Mixed Up
in Rocky Mountain National Park - Photo by Rainbow Weinstock
There I was...climbing the second pitch of Goldrush…a four pitch
WI5 route in the Silverton area of Colorado. I had finished the crux section
of the pitch and placed one of my ice tools on my left shoulder so I could
traverse right through some steep snow and ice. I leaned forward to
look at my feet and suddenly the ice tool slipped from my shoulder. I could not
respond quickly enough to save my tool from plummeting 350' to the plot of
snow at the base of the route. Luckily, my partner was tucked back in a corner
at the anchor below and out of the way of my cascading tool. I finished the
pitch with one tool and rappelled off the climb once my partner got to the top
of the second pitch.
There I was...climbing solo on the Direct Polish Glacier on Aconcagua in
Argentina. The crux consists of about 3,000' of Alpine Ice 3 without ledges or
breaks in the angle. Dropping an ice tool in this situation is not an option. I
tied some cordellette to the bottom of my tools and clipped this into my harness.
I felt reassured and much safer knowing that I could not drop my ice tools this
time. Now enter the Black Diamond Spinner Leash.
BD Spinner Leash
The Spinner Leash is standard gear for me when climbing ice. Whether it is
ice-cragging or multi-pitch alpine ice - I am using the Spinner Leash. These days
many folks are going “leashless” in
order to have more freedom of movement and natural motion. I have found that with the Spinner Leash I
can still have the freedom of movement I desire but the peace of my mind that I am not going to drop a tool mid climb.
I have found that the Spinner Leash rarely gets in the way: in fact, most of
the time I forget it is attached. I can switch my tools from hand to hand
and the swivel keeps the leashes organized. The stretchy bungee inside the
black webbing keeps slack from building up that would accumulate if you used a cordalette leash. The carabiners that clip into the bottom of
the tools are small enough that they do not get in the way.
Mike ready to climb with the BD Spinner Leash
There are a few points to be mindful of when using the Spinner Leash. When
following a leader, the cords can get wrapped around the climbing rope. Some
intention in placement and organization when moving from one stick to the next
helps mitigate this. Also, the carabineers that clip into the bottom of the
tool have gates that do not latch onto the tip of the carabiner - there is no
hook to catch the wiregate. The carabiner once popped off my tool at a belay
because the wiregate got slightly loaded at an angle. Lastly, the carabiners
for the Spinner Leash may not clip into helpful places on some ergonomic tools as
the alignment may put the carabiners right where your hand wants to go. These
are the only things I have found unperfected by the Spinner Leash.
Overall, I REALLY like the Spinner Leash and recommend it to any ice or alpine
climber, beginner to expert. Why have the anxiety of dropping your tools when
you can have the safety of a leash that does not compromise the freedom of going
leashless? Enjoy!
I’m a hardman darn it and this jacket is just so…soft! And light!
And I’m not a lightweight either (at least in my mind). That being said, this
is what I have to say about the Marmot Zeus Jacket: love it, love it, love it.
Marmot describes the Zeus as a city jacket but a lot of us
wear it both on outdoor adventures and while visiting the local barista. On some
recent camping trips I put the Zeus on when I emerged from my sleeping bag and
again as soon as the sun went down. This jacket is so light that I forget I am wearing it. It is like wearing warm air. It has been an excellent layer for fall rock
climbing (read: belaying). It has been with me in Red Rocks, Moab, and Eldo
this year and soon it will find its way into my ski pack!
The Zeus keeping CMS Guide Eric Whewell warm in Rocky Mountain National Park
If online reviews are
any indication than the Zeus seems to be a favorite of both backpackers and air-travelers for its minimal weight (less than a pound in medium size) and
packability: it gets tiny. Both of these things appeal to me as I am a “light is right” fanatic about my gear. Beyond that, the main reason I find myself
reaching for the Zeus everyday is the comfort and warmth provided by the
high quality down and the soft, supple shell material. The Zeus is shockingly
warm for its weight and shockingly comfortable period.
Part of the Zeus’ comfort comes from it feeling
lighter than your baseball cap and part of the comfort comes from its excellent
fit. It is long
enough in the arms to encourage all kinds of movement, snug and cozy but not
tight around the neck, and just right in the torso whether layered
over a t-shirt or a hoody. Many folks also appreciate that the Zeus is not overly bulky and thus avoids the “Michelin Man” look.
Eric Whewell (CMS Senior Guide) in RMNP
The extremely lightweight and packable shell material
doesn’t look particularly burly and honestly a good Manzanita bushwhack might
spell doom for it, but thus far it has withstood being my daily go-to-jacket..and
I’m not easy on my outerwear.
CMS Guides on Spearhead. Eric (center) is rockin the Zeus.
Other perks of the jacket are: the zippered hand-warmer
pockets, the neck-warmer effect of the high collar and the lack of bells and whistles...it comes in lots of cool colors too.
The only real complaint about the Zeus comes from my other
jackets: they are lonely. Now, the only question is: is it wrong to take a down
jacket to a tropical paradise like Thailand? I plan to find out this week.
I
have long awaited the arrival of the new Black Diamond Vector Helmet. I like to
carry as little weight up the hill as possible and since my LG/XL Vector
weighs in at a trim 8.5 ounces (SM/MD 8.1 ounces) I have no excuse to
leave my helmet at home.
There
are lots of technical components to the Vector: in-mold headlamp clips,
ratcheting helmet adjustment, tuck away suspension (for packing), lots of
ventilation, and cold-molded EPS foam with polycarbonate shell. On top of all these technical points, the
Vector passes the all-day comfort test with ease.
A
good friend and regular climbing partner of mine named Juan laid it out for me a few weeks ago: he said, “Mike, you are to always bring your helmet for any
projects in Eldo.” Juan and I had been working on the climb “Surf’s
Up.” Sure enough the next time we went out I brought the Vector along to test-drive. Bottom line: we both dug it.
Juan rockin the Vector Helmet in Eldo
The
long and short is this: the Vector is a lightweight helmet that is comfortable,
looks good, packs easily and most importantly is going to protect your
domepiece. Fear not ladies, there is also a
Women's Model.
The Black Diamond LightWeight Gloves are a consistent item
in my pack no matter what time of year. The LightWeight Glove does not receive
the time in the spotlight it deserves. This is partly because in the winter
they are often hidden under my outer gloves like the Black Diamond Legends or
Guide Gloves (each awesome in their own right). But no matter the season, these
LightWeight gloves keep my hands warm and working.
BD LightWeight Glove keeping me warm on the hike in to climb.
In summer I wear the LightWeight Gloves in the morning while
hiking to alpine climbs. They are perfect wicking gloves for highly aerobic
activities and they dry out quickly. In the fall and winter these gloves become
my liner gloves under alpine ice climbing or ski gloves. In the spring the
LightWeight gloves work great by themselves when I am skinning uphill to ski
the corn. The LightWeight Gloves are soft and comfortable next to my skin. I
pretty much don’t go outside without them!
These gloves rock! Thanks BD for an awesome product.
Now that fall is here, keeping your hands warm and working
is more important. If you do not own a good pair of liner gloves, I highly
suggest trying out the BD LightWeights! Your hands will thank you!
Recently, I've been out in La Sportiva's latest approach shoe incarnation, the Xplorer. I first heard mention of this shoe from a Sportiva employee after inquiring why they hadn't yet released an updated Exum model. I prefer approach shoes that provide enough cushioning for long days in the Park or trail runs/scrambles in the Flatirons.
The Xplorers are the right kicks for the job. They offer a bit more support in the midsole than the old Exums, while still maintaining a cushy flexibility. The lacing system, which extends all the way to the toe, makes adjustments between trail and technical terrain easy. After a recent outing in Eldo, where I covered a bunch of moderate 5th class rock in these guys, I was pleased with the way that the reinforced toe stands on small edges. Not much of the rollover that is common to other tennies.
Similar to many Sportiva models, the fit is quite narrow and low volume. At a svelte 13.4 ounces, they are some of the lightest fully-featured approach shoes available. Definitely noticeable when clipped to the back of your harness, where they spend a good portion of their day anyway.
With covering lots of ground and climbing many pitches in the Park... my feet, ankles, and knees are thank me for choosing this shoe. Check them out.
Kevin Baines rocking his new Black Diamond Half Dome
Black Diamond has revised and updated their helmet line for
2012, including their stalwart, the Half Dome. The Half Dome has been my go-to
helmet for years. It is dependable, sturdy, and comfy. You put it on and forget
about it.
Helmets do not get much glory in the climbing world. You do
not often hear people chatting about their “sweet new helmet.” In fact, some
bozos don’t even bother with one at all. I like helmets however; because I
like my face and the ability to use my brain. Whether I am trad climbing,
clipping bolts, or belaying, I am always wearing a helmet.
Lots of color options in the sleek new Half Dome
There are two main things I am concerned with when looking
for a helmet: safety and comfort. I want to protect my head but I also I want
to put the helmet on and forget about it. The helmet should never interrupt what I’m
doing. And that’s why I love my new Half Dome: great noggin coverage, simple
and light, and built to last.
Some improvements I have noticed in my updated
Half Dome Helmet are:
Slimmer design: less bulk on the head, I don’t seem to hit my helmet on the rock as often now. Bonus for pinheads like me, it looks better too.
Lighter weight: less heft on your head and in your pack.
Better padding: this means more comfortable.
Better adjustment wheel: no more loose and tilted helmet or headache-inducing tightness. You can dial in the fit perfectly.
Simpler strap system: the easily adjustable straps don’t hit my ears or my Adam’s apple. I can set it just right.
Bottom Line: If you want a “set it and forget it” helmet, I highly
suggest the new Black Diamond Half Dome. Plus, it comes in lots of cool colors.
Buy one and for crying out loud, wear it - every time you get after the rock or
ice.
For big days out it is hard to imagine a more important piece
of gear than your shoes. You often leave and return to the trailhead in the dark, without ever taking your shoes off. How your shoes treat your body
in between is pretty
darn important. I have been climbing for fifteen years and taking people climbing for about ten. I have gone through piles of
approach shoes, and the La Sportiva Xplorer tops the list.
Many factors exist in finding the right approach shoe
for your needs and objectives. The biggest trade-off for me
to consider is performance versus comfort. Do
you feel like you can lead 5.8 in them but your feet are mashed potatoes by the
end of the day? Or do they feel like a cadillac on your heels, but climb so poorly that you have to
switch into your rock shoes for a bit of 4th class? The Xplorers have found a happy balance here. In the past two weeks I have given the Xplorers the best test I can think of: two car-to-car trips up The Diamond in Rocky Mountain National Park. These were very long days, moving consistently for eighteen to twenty hours. The Xplorers crushed it.
Comfort
The hike involves about six miles of hiking
each way with several thousand feet of elevation change. The terrain varies from hardpacked trail, to scrambling over huge boulders, to scree fields and loose moraine.
After the three to four hour hike in and then the subsequent hike out, most people
are absolutely sick of walking! My partner on one of these missions
actually said he would pay $50 to magically be back in his bed. Sure
there's the mental game of it all, but it helps if your body has had only the
required amount of thrashing that day and has not received an excessive dose
of ass-whooping. I have found with some shoes that I have sore
toes and and feet after a day out like this. With the Xplorers I find
that my dogs do NOT bark, even if every other part of my body may be. With regards to the design of the shoe, I believe
that this comfort comes from several design features: a healthy amount of
rocker in the sole, a sufficient amount of padding in the mid-sole and a
significant amount of rigidity. They are also
lighter than most approach shoes and breath great. (Please note that I
put a pair of Superfeet in these as I do with all of my approach shoes.)
Performance: When I speak of performance I have steep
terrain in mind. Plenty of shoes on the market can get you from A to B as
you hike along in the mountains, but I greatly desire quality capability in 4th
class and low to mid 5th class terrain. The test of this for me was the
North Chimney, the gaping 600' gully at the end of the six mile hike into the
Diamond. It is the formidable obstacle that stands between a climbing
party and their awe inspiring splitter route of the day on the Diamond proper.
People HATE the North Chimney and look like they want to spit when they
speak of it. Seasoned climbers have fallen down it and have had large rock fall
down onto them while inside it. I don't want to be either of those guys,
so when I head into the North Chimney it's paramount that I move quickly AND
securely. To get into it, this time of year, one has to ascent several
hundred feet of relatively steep snow to get on the rock. On my most
recent trip up there I put crampons on my Xplores and was very happy with the
setup, partly due to the rigidity of the shoe with a crampon on and also due to
the level of water resistance they provided. After the snow climbing
there is hundreds of feet of rock climbing, ranging from 4th class to 5.6.
The shoes were excellent in this terrain. While my capable partner
feel the need to change out of his approach shoes, I felt comfortable
continuing up the slabs, cracks and face, climbing in my Xplores, unroped.
These shoes edge great due to the style of rubber and the rigidity of the
sole. However, I do find that others shoes with softer rubber and less
shoe underfoot slab and crack climb better, but often at the cost of durability
and cushioning.
Bottom Line: These shoes are great! I'm
pretty sure this pair of shoes will take on quite a few pitches and miles, due
to their solid construction, particularly in their large rand and durable
sole. I have other shoes in my gear closet that don't see the light of
day or are on the "to sell" list, as I'm always reaching for these
shoes, whether it's for long routes in Eldo, Lumpy or the Park. Their
balance of weight, durability, performance, comfort and most importantly style
(duh) make me think we'll be seeing this shoe around for a while in La
Sportiva's line up.
Last season I retired many of my well-used carabiners and decided to try the new Black Diamond Hoodwires. According to BD: “Their hot-forged construction combines a keylock design with wire gate functionality.” Translation: greatly reduced snagging when you’re clipping gear, bolts, screws, or runners and virtually no gate whiplash when you’re logging some air time. I paired them with double length BD Dynex runners for a lightweight and versatile addition to my rack. I’ve used them on all of my climbing endeavors for the last nine months– local favorites in Eldorado Canyon, wide cracks at Vedauwoo, desert towers of Red Rocks, alpine rock, alpine mixed, and even ice climbs down in Ouray. They’ve excelled in all conditions. Plus, the iconic BD-Orange color looks great in the photos and it will keep your pilfering partner from “acquiring” your new gear!
